Traditional Filipino Weapons (TFW) Dan Dao
Sept 13, 2016 17:52:21 GMT
Post by pellius on Sept 13, 2016 17:52:21 GMT
Hello everyone. Let me begin by saying that this forum and its forumites have been tremendously generous with information, expertise, patience and enthusiasm toward me as a brand new sword enthusiast. In the spirit of contributing what I can, I submit for your consideration my first review - the TFW Dan Dao.
Introduction
I have been practicing various martial arts for a little over 20 years, with a general focus on Kung Fu styles. I have worked quite a bit with numerous weapons, but swords are almost completely new to me. Before acquiring this TFW Dan Dao, I previously obtained a liuye dao/willow leaf saber from an ebay vendor, and a niuwei dao/oxtail saber from Hanwei. Since my sword experience is woefully shallow and brief, I’ll try to use these other two swords to give some context to this review.
Once bitten by the sword-wanting bug, I managed to get a TFW itak from a fellow forumite. The itak was, to my untrained eye, gorgeous, despite being a well used blade. When I learned TFW made a Chinese dao, I just had to have one.
Historical Overview
The history of the single edged sword in China is lengthy and complex. Since much of it happened outside of the United States and mostly before I was even born, I’m not very familiar with it.
I also do not read or speak Chinese. That means that much of what I know rests upon the reliability of second-hand non-scholarly internet articles and such. Reader beware...
TFW markets this sword as a “Chinese Dan Dao.” It is a one-hand single edge sword suitable mostly for cutting but useful for thrusting.
According to forumites on this and other forums, the term “dao” (in Mandarin) simply refers to any single edged blade, and commonly translates as “knife” unless the context implies “sword.”
The term “dan” (in Mandarin) translates as “single.” The occidental internet consensus seems to be that “single” refers to the fighting technique used with the sword rather than the number of sharpened edges, number of hands used to wield it, or the number of swords housed in one sheath/scabbard.
In contrast, “shuang dao” refers to “double/twin knife,” generally referring to a two sword fighting technique. I have seen the term used (possibly incorrectly) to refer to two swords (such as jian or butterfly swords) housed in a single sheath or scabbard. Perhaps having two swords in one scabbard necessarily implies that the user will employ techniques using two swords.
As a layperson, the term “dan dao” seems redundant. The term does not really describe the sword itself any more specifically than “dao.”
The sword does not seem to be a true niuwei/oxtail dao or a liuye/willow leaf dao, but is more of a compromise between the two. It has the side and distal profile of an oxtail with the length and weight of a willow leaf. A really nice compromise between the two, I think.
This would probably be considered a fantasy sword, but the experts may know of historical examples with these dimensions. Had the military ever adopted and issued oxtails, they may well have looked like this.
Full Disclosure
I received this sword from KoA from their scratch-n-dent bin. Thus, it was discounted, but not because they like me or think readers of this review are going to be particularly impressed that I wrote it.
TFW has no idea who I am, although I did email Ron once regarding a different item.
As for disclaimers about my personal (lack of) expertise, please see above.
Initial Impressions
KoA delivered fast and as promised, with the sword securely nestled in wrapping paper within a cardboard box. The blade was lightly oiled rather than being coated in grease. Unwrapping was way easier and faster and less messy than the yellow-tape-styrofoam Chinese boxes that have to, you know, survive a trip from China.
I really like the look and feel of TFW steel and workmanship, and this sword did not disappoint. To me, it looks much better in person than in pictures. The scabbard is darker than pictures suggest, and compliments the red wood grip.
I couldn’t really find the scratch or dent - maaaaybe they were referring to a surface separation of the woodgrain in the scabbard that gives the impression of a crack. TFW and KoA warn that such issues are expected from the wood as it settles into a new climate. This particular cosmetic issue is subtle, and many sellers would still call such a scabbard “brand new.”
Possibly they were referring to a slightly uneven finish on the blackened steel fittings. However, a light rubbing of mineral oil (something to be done on every newly acquired sword!) evened everything out perfectly. I was worried that I was going to have to sand and polish rust pits or something - which would have marred the nice TFW satin finish. But nope! The blade was spectacular.
Despite the specs very clearly laid out by KoA and TFW, pictures of the sword had me thinking “oxtail.” However, picking it up and dry handling it very definitely communicated “willow leaf.” It’s big - the blade is about an inch longer than my katana and about 1 1/2 inches longer than my liuye dao (!). It is also way heavier than my oxtail, though still almost 4 ounces lighter than my willow leaf.
The blade is paper cutting sharp along its entire length. The blade profile is very even and uniform.
The fit and finish is simple but beautifully executed, and rock solid. The blade is slightly more flexible over its length than my oxtail, probably due to its greater length.
There is not even a little bit of friction between the sword and the scabbard - it is a gravity fit only. Maybe that is the scratch-n-dent part?
Statistics
The TFW Dan Dao per KoA:
Overall length: 36 5/8”
Blade length: 28 9/16”
Grip length: 4 3/4”
Weight: 2 pounds 6 ounces
Point of balance: 5 3/4”
Thickness: 5.7mm - 2.4mm (.224” - .095”)
Width: 33.9mm - 46.4mm (1.335” - 1.827”)
My TFW Dan Dao per my measuring devices:
Weight: 2 pounds 5.6 ounces
Thickness: 5mm - 3mm (.197" - .118") (note: this measurement was taken with a very sketchy dial caliper of questionable lineage)
By way of comparison, the Hanwei oxtail:
Overall length: 32 1/2”
Blade length: 25”
Weight: 1 pound 13 ounces
Thickness: 5.6mm - 1.9mm (.22” - .075”)
Width: 35.7mm - 50.9mm (1.476” - 2.004”)
And my Hero Sword willow leaf:
Overall length: 35” (est.)
Blade length: 27 1/2”(est.)
Weight: 2 pounds 10 ounces
Thickness: 8mm - 7mm (.315” - .276”)
Width: 39mm (1.535”)
Components
The Blade/Nagasa
The steel is tasty 5160 spring steel with some D2 tool steel “blended in” for some reason. It is not a laminated blade. It is not clear whether the blade has a differential hardness from the inside-out, but it seems unlikely on a blade this thin. It is not differentially hardened externally (i.e., there is no hamon). TFW claims they use a sodium nitrate heat treat. Sword forging experts please correct me, but my understanding is that using a nitrate-salt quench permits precise control and stability of temperature and contaminant control, and is useful for limiting thermal stress and distortion in quenching, and helps produce a more uniform hardness. (Or so the internet says.)
I may be imagining things, but I think the chromium in the D2 (and, of course, some is also in the 5160) gives the blade a beautiful deep color and luster. The uniform satin finish runs lengthwise (unlike the widthwise finish on the TFW itak). The finish is very uniform, and the fullers seem perfectly parallel to the back edge of the blade and to each other.
There is a bit of flex in the blade, but I wouldn’t call it “bendy.” It is much sturdier than the so-called “wushu” type flex. This is a serious weapons-grade piece of working steel. It is easily strong enough for Kung Fu type blocking techniques.
There is an interesting step-up along the back edge of the blade. Presumably, this allows for more weight at the forward percussion point without the deep curve of an oxtail. It looks cool to me. However, if TFW went to the trouble of forging this complex shape, I think they could’ve achieved proper point geometry without a recurve (see below).
The edge is paper cutting sharp along its entire length. Traditionally, only the last third or so (i.e., the tip-end) would be super sharp, the middle third reasonably sharp, and the bottom third would be left unsharpened. There is no secondary bevel. The cross sectional geometry seems well adapted to cutting soft to medium targets.
The point is sharp and well supported, and the blade is rigid enough for thrusting into light and medium targets.
The point is properly situated in line with the wrist for functional thrusting. To accomplish this geometry, there is a slight downward recurve to the back edge of the blade leading to the point. Perhaps TFW did it this way to give more support to the point. Nonetheless, it is aesthetically a little off-putting.
When struck, the blade has a very nice ring to it.
The overall size along with the broad profile and narrow distal profile is a very interesting combination. It should cut through soft and medium targets better than a standard oxtail and much better than a willow leaf. While it is 5160 spring steel and has some substance behind the edge, zombie bone might still roll or chip the blade. However, TFW has produced numerous youtube videos cutting swine bones and sheet metal and such with some of their narrower blades - no damage whatsoever.
As an aside (rust):
TFW likes to refer to Filipino military history (e.g., pressing agricultural implements into military service to resist imperial forces) and cultural context (e.g., jungle warfare) in selling its blades. I think that is entirely appropriate and I'm glad they do. However, being a city-dwelling westerner, it's easy for me to let my imagination distract my reason and common sense when it comes to these things. TFW does not claim to apply any rust resistant finish on their blades, and specifically advises a regimen to preserve the blades they sell.
5160 is a high carbon alloy steel (around .6% carbon). There is a little chromium (less than 1%), but it is still reported to be vulnerable to rust. D2 tool steel has quite a bit of chromium (11-13%; almost a stainless). Wikipedia states that D2 is very wear resistant and “very sensitive” to heat treatment (perhaps this is part of the reason TFW is so proud and secretive of their proprietary heat treat system). However, the ratio of the TFW 5160/D2 alloy is a secret, and TFW warns to protect the blade from rust. So if you carry this thing into the wilderness or cut water bottles, be prepared to take the rust monster head-on.
As another aside (blade flex):
I discussed the flex of this particular Dan Dao with some of the forumites. Based on my descriptions, they basically agreed its flexibility was within normal bounds. I also emailed Ron at TFW regarding the flex. He very quickly and kindly responded. In short, he indicated my observations were well within TFW tolerances and expectations, and he expressed great confidence in putting the sword to its intended use.
TLDR: It’s a very nice and sturdy blade. It may be my favorite.
The Handle/Tsuka
The grip is a red hard wood, presumably of Filipino origin. It looks very elegant, and is surprisingly grippy for polished wood. The curved shape and slightly oval cross-section help with grip and alignment. The diameter feels about right for my average size hand. It can accommodate the hammer or handshake grip, though the curved blade and recurved hilt makes a hammer grip seem a little unnatural in relation to the sword as a whole.
It is just long enough for me to fit both hands on it with a pinkie hanging off the bottom of the pommel. I would call this a one-hand sword, though the grip is probably more like a hand-and-a-half. While the Kung Fu techniques I know involve the use of both hands in one way or another (the whole body, really), I don't know of any that call for two hands on the handle itself. Again, there is an awful lot I don't know, though, so I recommend expert advice if you intend to use this sword as your primary weapon.
The wood grip does not become slick when wet from a sweaty palm or when an overzealous novice reviewer puts water on it just to test it out. Wet or dry, the downward curve helps seat the hilt into the meat of the palm during a smart cut.
Apparently, the method of grip attachment to the tang is a trade secret of TFW, as are the tang shape and tang dimensions. However, TFW’s reputation for solid construction for heavy use seems universal. There is no visible pin. TFW indicates the mounting is permanent.
As an aside (sharpening):
The Internet consensus seems to be that the historical/traditional method for sharpening Chinese swords is not well preserved, but that it involved using various coarseness wet stones. It seems that the craftsman would accomplish the actual sharpening and polishing in a similar (but not identical) way that Japanese craftsmen sharpened and polished long blades such as the katana. Such sharpening apparently requires the blade to be dismounted.
I bring this up to point out that the blade cannot be dismounted from the hilt, so it probably is not feasible to have the blade sharpened in the traditional manner. Of course, the sword comes from TFW with a non-traditional sharpness (see - above). Also, a traditional sharpening and polishing job would probably cost quite a bit more than the new price of the sword.
I have never used a belt sander to sharpen a sword. The portfolios of some of the forumites indicate that there are some tremendously skilled craftsmen just a PM away. They should be able to tell you whether dismounting the blade is necessary for sharpening by the belt sander method.
The Guard/Tsuba
The guard is a matte-blackened metal disc. It matches the sword’s theme, and would probably succeed in keeping your hand off the blade in a thrust. It isn’t really for guarding in the European sense.
The Pommel/Fuchi-Kashira
The pommel is also matte-black metal. It seems solid and secure. There is what might be a cap over a nut - hard to tell. It seems pretty permanent, though.
The Scabbard/Saya
The scabbard is an attractive natural/open grain wood that is nicely shaped and finished. It is not the same color or grain pattern as the grip, which is irksome to some folks. Personally, I think it looks great, and is much more subtle in person than in pictures. The matte-black metal hangers and throat fit securely to the scabbard and match the rest of the sword.
It doesn’t grip the sword at all. Shimming and fitting the scabbard throat shouldn’t be a problem. At this price point, my feelings aren’t too hurt by having to “fix” a new item.
As an aside (TFW scabbard/guard clips):
At some point in the not-too-distant past, TFW changed the scabbards for many of their Filipino-derived designs by adding a scabbard clip and a guard that would work with it. This dao does not have such a clip. It is tempting to blame the disc-shaped guard for this difference. However, none of TFW's weapons from "other cultures" or for "modern combat" seem to have a scabbard clip. Also, WWII Japanese gunto have a disc-shaped guard with an integrated clip design.
Handling Characteristics
I don’t know any formal sword techniques for a sword of this size and shape. Oxtail techniques mostly seem to work with this sword, and with a bit of fajin it is deceptively fast and very authoritative in the hand.
The balance is nice - much livelier than my willow leaf and almost as nimble as my oxtail when performing any particular technique. However, it is heavier and longer, and some transitions are slower. Caution is needed for moves where tip location is critical, as well as with moves followed by an “unnatural” stop or change in direction (such as a downward vertical cut). Also, finesse cuts with the wrist require some strength (at my novice skill level).
For me, it mostly handles like an oxtail, but with a lot of momentum and a with a point that isn't always be where I thought it would be.
Test Cutting (if applicable)
This thing cuts paper along its entire length. I haven’t cut anything else. Executing a move through this sword with fajin is very satisfying.
Zombie water bottles will sing dirges of the slaughter to be wrought by this sword.
Conclusions
Okay, TLDR time.
I like this blade and overall package a lot. Although I have very little formal sword training (yet!), I can perform the techniques I know reasonably well with this sword.
It is more substantial than a standard oxtail, and faster than a willow leaf.
If I had to venture into the zombie apocalypse with only one sword, I would take this one.
Pros
- Beautiful.
- Sturdy.
- 5160 and D2 steel with a reliable heat treat. Very tough and very pretty. Be sure to protect it from rust as with any carbon steel blade.
- Big (see - Cons, below)
- Relatively inexpensive.
- Sharp.
- Manufacturer has a pretty decent reputation for quality, and a demonstrated commitment to its products and customers.
- Can be used with a known system of swordsmanship, but you kinda have to squint (see - Cons, below).
Cons
- Big. Not even Duncan MacLeod could conceal-carry this thing. In confined spaces (indoors, in thick woods or jungle, etc.), this sword would be unwieldy.
- There is no system of swordsmanship of which I am aware that specifically uses a blade with these dimensions. The experts might have more info.
- Scabbard does not hold the blade except by gravity. This might be due to the scratch-n-dent origin of the sword. A shim should fix it right up.
- The wood color of the grip and scabbard do not match. I find them complimentary, but others disagree.
The Bottom Line
I very highly recommend this sword for dry handling, light and medium cutting, and for simply admiring. I recommend it for forms practice with the understanding that is is extra long and heavy. And sharp! Be careful, kids.
I recommend it even at the full regular price. As name-brand 5160 swords go, it is a decent bargain.
I do not recommend it as a first or primary dao for Kung Fu or Tai Chi. For that, I think the Hanwei oxtail (the one with brass fittings) is spot on perfect. But, of course, talk to your Shi Fu/Sifu/Sensei. I’m just a novice.
I do not recommend this sword for heavy cutting.
My apologies for my lack of technical prowess. All pics are at the end.
Thanks for looking.
*Edit*
A big thank you to the forumites who patiently read this review and offered feedback.
I moved my commentary regarding 5160/D2 steel from the Cons section to the Blade section, and added a bit of prose to try to explain why I went into any of that in the first place.
I added a small commentary regarding the lack of a clip to hold the sword in the scabbard.
I added the measurements of my actual sword as I was able to take them.
I added a little more detail regarding the hilt. I included a brief discussion regarding the impact a permanent mounting has on blade sharpening options.
I added a follow up regarding the blade's lateral flexibility.
I also tried to clean up some of the formatting, fix grammatical mistakes and undo some of the spellcheck "corrections."
Introduction
I have been practicing various martial arts for a little over 20 years, with a general focus on Kung Fu styles. I have worked quite a bit with numerous weapons, but swords are almost completely new to me. Before acquiring this TFW Dan Dao, I previously obtained a liuye dao/willow leaf saber from an ebay vendor, and a niuwei dao/oxtail saber from Hanwei. Since my sword experience is woefully shallow and brief, I’ll try to use these other two swords to give some context to this review.
Once bitten by the sword-wanting bug, I managed to get a TFW itak from a fellow forumite. The itak was, to my untrained eye, gorgeous, despite being a well used blade. When I learned TFW made a Chinese dao, I just had to have one.
Historical Overview
The history of the single edged sword in China is lengthy and complex. Since much of it happened outside of the United States and mostly before I was even born, I’m not very familiar with it.
I also do not read or speak Chinese. That means that much of what I know rests upon the reliability of second-hand non-scholarly internet articles and such. Reader beware...
TFW markets this sword as a “Chinese Dan Dao.” It is a one-hand single edge sword suitable mostly for cutting but useful for thrusting.
According to forumites on this and other forums, the term “dao” (in Mandarin) simply refers to any single edged blade, and commonly translates as “knife” unless the context implies “sword.”
The term “dan” (in Mandarin) translates as “single.” The occidental internet consensus seems to be that “single” refers to the fighting technique used with the sword rather than the number of sharpened edges, number of hands used to wield it, or the number of swords housed in one sheath/scabbard.
In contrast, “shuang dao” refers to “double/twin knife,” generally referring to a two sword fighting technique. I have seen the term used (possibly incorrectly) to refer to two swords (such as jian or butterfly swords) housed in a single sheath or scabbard. Perhaps having two swords in one scabbard necessarily implies that the user will employ techniques using two swords.
As a layperson, the term “dan dao” seems redundant. The term does not really describe the sword itself any more specifically than “dao.”
The sword does not seem to be a true niuwei/oxtail dao or a liuye/willow leaf dao, but is more of a compromise between the two. It has the side and distal profile of an oxtail with the length and weight of a willow leaf. A really nice compromise between the two, I think.
This would probably be considered a fantasy sword, but the experts may know of historical examples with these dimensions. Had the military ever adopted and issued oxtails, they may well have looked like this.
Full Disclosure
I received this sword from KoA from their scratch-n-dent bin. Thus, it was discounted, but not because they like me or think readers of this review are going to be particularly impressed that I wrote it.
TFW has no idea who I am, although I did email Ron once regarding a different item.
As for disclaimers about my personal (lack of) expertise, please see above.
Initial Impressions
KoA delivered fast and as promised, with the sword securely nestled in wrapping paper within a cardboard box. The blade was lightly oiled rather than being coated in grease. Unwrapping was way easier and faster and less messy than the yellow-tape-styrofoam Chinese boxes that have to, you know, survive a trip from China.
I really like the look and feel of TFW steel and workmanship, and this sword did not disappoint. To me, it looks much better in person than in pictures. The scabbard is darker than pictures suggest, and compliments the red wood grip.
I couldn’t really find the scratch or dent - maaaaybe they were referring to a surface separation of the woodgrain in the scabbard that gives the impression of a crack. TFW and KoA warn that such issues are expected from the wood as it settles into a new climate. This particular cosmetic issue is subtle, and many sellers would still call such a scabbard “brand new.”
Possibly they were referring to a slightly uneven finish on the blackened steel fittings. However, a light rubbing of mineral oil (something to be done on every newly acquired sword!) evened everything out perfectly. I was worried that I was going to have to sand and polish rust pits or something - which would have marred the nice TFW satin finish. But nope! The blade was spectacular.
Despite the specs very clearly laid out by KoA and TFW, pictures of the sword had me thinking “oxtail.” However, picking it up and dry handling it very definitely communicated “willow leaf.” It’s big - the blade is about an inch longer than my katana and about 1 1/2 inches longer than my liuye dao (!). It is also way heavier than my oxtail, though still almost 4 ounces lighter than my willow leaf.
The blade is paper cutting sharp along its entire length. The blade profile is very even and uniform.
The fit and finish is simple but beautifully executed, and rock solid. The blade is slightly more flexible over its length than my oxtail, probably due to its greater length.
There is not even a little bit of friction between the sword and the scabbard - it is a gravity fit only. Maybe that is the scratch-n-dent part?
Statistics
The TFW Dan Dao per KoA:
Overall length: 36 5/8”
Blade length: 28 9/16”
Grip length: 4 3/4”
Weight: 2 pounds 6 ounces
Point of balance: 5 3/4”
Thickness: 5.7mm - 2.4mm (.224” - .095”)
Width: 33.9mm - 46.4mm (1.335” - 1.827”)
My TFW Dan Dao per my measuring devices:
Weight: 2 pounds 5.6 ounces
Thickness: 5mm - 3mm (.197" - .118") (note: this measurement was taken with a very sketchy dial caliper of questionable lineage)
By way of comparison, the Hanwei oxtail:
Overall length: 32 1/2”
Blade length: 25”
Weight: 1 pound 13 ounces
Thickness: 5.6mm - 1.9mm (.22” - .075”)
Width: 35.7mm - 50.9mm (1.476” - 2.004”)
And my Hero Sword willow leaf:
Overall length: 35” (est.)
Blade length: 27 1/2”(est.)
Weight: 2 pounds 10 ounces
Thickness: 8mm - 7mm (.315” - .276”)
Width: 39mm (1.535”)
Components
The Blade/Nagasa
The steel is tasty 5160 spring steel with some D2 tool steel “blended in” for some reason. It is not a laminated blade. It is not clear whether the blade has a differential hardness from the inside-out, but it seems unlikely on a blade this thin. It is not differentially hardened externally (i.e., there is no hamon). TFW claims they use a sodium nitrate heat treat. Sword forging experts please correct me, but my understanding is that using a nitrate-salt quench permits precise control and stability of temperature and contaminant control, and is useful for limiting thermal stress and distortion in quenching, and helps produce a more uniform hardness. (Or so the internet says.)
I may be imagining things, but I think the chromium in the D2 (and, of course, some is also in the 5160) gives the blade a beautiful deep color and luster. The uniform satin finish runs lengthwise (unlike the widthwise finish on the TFW itak). The finish is very uniform, and the fullers seem perfectly parallel to the back edge of the blade and to each other.
There is a bit of flex in the blade, but I wouldn’t call it “bendy.” It is much sturdier than the so-called “wushu” type flex. This is a serious weapons-grade piece of working steel. It is easily strong enough for Kung Fu type blocking techniques.
There is an interesting step-up along the back edge of the blade. Presumably, this allows for more weight at the forward percussion point without the deep curve of an oxtail. It looks cool to me. However, if TFW went to the trouble of forging this complex shape, I think they could’ve achieved proper point geometry without a recurve (see below).
The edge is paper cutting sharp along its entire length. Traditionally, only the last third or so (i.e., the tip-end) would be super sharp, the middle third reasonably sharp, and the bottom third would be left unsharpened. There is no secondary bevel. The cross sectional geometry seems well adapted to cutting soft to medium targets.
The point is sharp and well supported, and the blade is rigid enough for thrusting into light and medium targets.
The point is properly situated in line with the wrist for functional thrusting. To accomplish this geometry, there is a slight downward recurve to the back edge of the blade leading to the point. Perhaps TFW did it this way to give more support to the point. Nonetheless, it is aesthetically a little off-putting.
When struck, the blade has a very nice ring to it.
The overall size along with the broad profile and narrow distal profile is a very interesting combination. It should cut through soft and medium targets better than a standard oxtail and much better than a willow leaf. While it is 5160 spring steel and has some substance behind the edge, zombie bone might still roll or chip the blade. However, TFW has produced numerous youtube videos cutting swine bones and sheet metal and such with some of their narrower blades - no damage whatsoever.
As an aside (rust):
TFW likes to refer to Filipino military history (e.g., pressing agricultural implements into military service to resist imperial forces) and cultural context (e.g., jungle warfare) in selling its blades. I think that is entirely appropriate and I'm glad they do. However, being a city-dwelling westerner, it's easy for me to let my imagination distract my reason and common sense when it comes to these things. TFW does not claim to apply any rust resistant finish on their blades, and specifically advises a regimen to preserve the blades they sell.
5160 is a high carbon alloy steel (around .6% carbon). There is a little chromium (less than 1%), but it is still reported to be vulnerable to rust. D2 tool steel has quite a bit of chromium (11-13%; almost a stainless). Wikipedia states that D2 is very wear resistant and “very sensitive” to heat treatment (perhaps this is part of the reason TFW is so proud and secretive of their proprietary heat treat system). However, the ratio of the TFW 5160/D2 alloy is a secret, and TFW warns to protect the blade from rust. So if you carry this thing into the wilderness or cut water bottles, be prepared to take the rust monster head-on.
As another aside (blade flex):
I discussed the flex of this particular Dan Dao with some of the forumites. Based on my descriptions, they basically agreed its flexibility was within normal bounds. I also emailed Ron at TFW regarding the flex. He very quickly and kindly responded. In short, he indicated my observations were well within TFW tolerances and expectations, and he expressed great confidence in putting the sword to its intended use.
TLDR: It’s a very nice and sturdy blade. It may be my favorite.
The Handle/Tsuka
The grip is a red hard wood, presumably of Filipino origin. It looks very elegant, and is surprisingly grippy for polished wood. The curved shape and slightly oval cross-section help with grip and alignment. The diameter feels about right for my average size hand. It can accommodate the hammer or handshake grip, though the curved blade and recurved hilt makes a hammer grip seem a little unnatural in relation to the sword as a whole.
It is just long enough for me to fit both hands on it with a pinkie hanging off the bottom of the pommel. I would call this a one-hand sword, though the grip is probably more like a hand-and-a-half. While the Kung Fu techniques I know involve the use of both hands in one way or another (the whole body, really), I don't know of any that call for two hands on the handle itself. Again, there is an awful lot I don't know, though, so I recommend expert advice if you intend to use this sword as your primary weapon.
The wood grip does not become slick when wet from a sweaty palm or when an overzealous novice reviewer puts water on it just to test it out. Wet or dry, the downward curve helps seat the hilt into the meat of the palm during a smart cut.
Apparently, the method of grip attachment to the tang is a trade secret of TFW, as are the tang shape and tang dimensions. However, TFW’s reputation for solid construction for heavy use seems universal. There is no visible pin. TFW indicates the mounting is permanent.
As an aside (sharpening):
The Internet consensus seems to be that the historical/traditional method for sharpening Chinese swords is not well preserved, but that it involved using various coarseness wet stones. It seems that the craftsman would accomplish the actual sharpening and polishing in a similar (but not identical) way that Japanese craftsmen sharpened and polished long blades such as the katana. Such sharpening apparently requires the blade to be dismounted.
I bring this up to point out that the blade cannot be dismounted from the hilt, so it probably is not feasible to have the blade sharpened in the traditional manner. Of course, the sword comes from TFW with a non-traditional sharpness (see - above). Also, a traditional sharpening and polishing job would probably cost quite a bit more than the new price of the sword.
I have never used a belt sander to sharpen a sword. The portfolios of some of the forumites indicate that there are some tremendously skilled craftsmen just a PM away. They should be able to tell you whether dismounting the blade is necessary for sharpening by the belt sander method.
The Guard/Tsuba
The guard is a matte-blackened metal disc. It matches the sword’s theme, and would probably succeed in keeping your hand off the blade in a thrust. It isn’t really for guarding in the European sense.
The Pommel/Fuchi-Kashira
The pommel is also matte-black metal. It seems solid and secure. There is what might be a cap over a nut - hard to tell. It seems pretty permanent, though.
The Scabbard/Saya
The scabbard is an attractive natural/open grain wood that is nicely shaped and finished. It is not the same color or grain pattern as the grip, which is irksome to some folks. Personally, I think it looks great, and is much more subtle in person than in pictures. The matte-black metal hangers and throat fit securely to the scabbard and match the rest of the sword.
It doesn’t grip the sword at all. Shimming and fitting the scabbard throat shouldn’t be a problem. At this price point, my feelings aren’t too hurt by having to “fix” a new item.
As an aside (TFW scabbard/guard clips):
At some point in the not-too-distant past, TFW changed the scabbards for many of their Filipino-derived designs by adding a scabbard clip and a guard that would work with it. This dao does not have such a clip. It is tempting to blame the disc-shaped guard for this difference. However, none of TFW's weapons from "other cultures" or for "modern combat" seem to have a scabbard clip. Also, WWII Japanese gunto have a disc-shaped guard with an integrated clip design.
Handling Characteristics
I don’t know any formal sword techniques for a sword of this size and shape. Oxtail techniques mostly seem to work with this sword, and with a bit of fajin it is deceptively fast and very authoritative in the hand.
The balance is nice - much livelier than my willow leaf and almost as nimble as my oxtail when performing any particular technique. However, it is heavier and longer, and some transitions are slower. Caution is needed for moves where tip location is critical, as well as with moves followed by an “unnatural” stop or change in direction (such as a downward vertical cut). Also, finesse cuts with the wrist require some strength (at my novice skill level).
For me, it mostly handles like an oxtail, but with a lot of momentum and a with a point that isn't always be where I thought it would be.
Test Cutting (if applicable)
This thing cuts paper along its entire length. I haven’t cut anything else. Executing a move through this sword with fajin is very satisfying.
Zombie water bottles will sing dirges of the slaughter to be wrought by this sword.
Conclusions
Okay, TLDR time.
I like this blade and overall package a lot. Although I have very little formal sword training (yet!), I can perform the techniques I know reasonably well with this sword.
It is more substantial than a standard oxtail, and faster than a willow leaf.
If I had to venture into the zombie apocalypse with only one sword, I would take this one.
Pros
- Beautiful.
- Sturdy.
- 5160 and D2 steel with a reliable heat treat. Very tough and very pretty. Be sure to protect it from rust as with any carbon steel blade.
- Big (see - Cons, below)
- Relatively inexpensive.
- Sharp.
- Manufacturer has a pretty decent reputation for quality, and a demonstrated commitment to its products and customers.
- Can be used with a known system of swordsmanship, but you kinda have to squint (see - Cons, below).
Cons
- Big. Not even Duncan MacLeod could conceal-carry this thing. In confined spaces (indoors, in thick woods or jungle, etc.), this sword would be unwieldy.
- There is no system of swordsmanship of which I am aware that specifically uses a blade with these dimensions. The experts might have more info.
- Scabbard does not hold the blade except by gravity. This might be due to the scratch-n-dent origin of the sword. A shim should fix it right up.
- The wood color of the grip and scabbard do not match. I find them complimentary, but others disagree.
The Bottom Line
I very highly recommend this sword for dry handling, light and medium cutting, and for simply admiring. I recommend it for forms practice with the understanding that is is extra long and heavy. And sharp! Be careful, kids.
I recommend it even at the full regular price. As name-brand 5160 swords go, it is a decent bargain.
I do not recommend it as a first or primary dao for Kung Fu or Tai Chi. For that, I think the Hanwei oxtail (the one with brass fittings) is spot on perfect. But, of course, talk to your Shi Fu/Sifu/Sensei. I’m just a novice.
I do not recommend this sword for heavy cutting.
My apologies for my lack of technical prowess. All pics are at the end.
Thanks for looking.
*Edit*
A big thank you to the forumites who patiently read this review and offered feedback.
I moved my commentary regarding 5160/D2 steel from the Cons section to the Blade section, and added a bit of prose to try to explain why I went into any of that in the first place.
I added a small commentary regarding the lack of a clip to hold the sword in the scabbard.
I added the measurements of my actual sword as I was able to take them.
I added a little more detail regarding the hilt. I included a brief discussion regarding the impact a permanent mounting has on blade sharpening options.
I added a follow up regarding the blade's lateral flexibility.
I also tried to clean up some of the formatting, fix grammatical mistakes and undo some of the spellcheck "corrections."