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Post by The Lone Stranger on Jul 19, 2016 2:05:41 GMT
Mr. Jammer, Yes, you are correct on the orientation of the cuts, sir. Tameshigiri on the other hand, is less about fighting or the aspects of fencing with a sword and more about a visual measurement of your technique/edge alignment. Does a tsuka need to be strong for cutting bamboo and grass mats? I'd say so just from a safety perspective. For the differences between panel and full wrap, I feel that some of the advantages are possibly diminished with the use of modern adhesives used on tsuka cores to keep the wrap from shifting. But, I do think that a full wrap does add quite a bit of structural augmentation to the wood core itself. I've heard this from several customizers and many practitioners have recommended this set up. Others don't share that taste and we see that same dichotomy in antiques as well. Which is right? Personally, I think there's no wrong way to eat a Reese's.
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Post by nddave on Jul 19, 2016 2:16:49 GMT
I guess you can look at it like European swords with their cord under leather wraps. It just adds an extra layer of reinforcement to the handle to prevent failure and cracking. Even if the wood and leather is good enough it doesn't hurt having the cord there for extra support.
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Post by omgkenobi on Jul 20, 2016 21:43:31 GMT
Thanks for the advice regarding Swords of Northshire swords. I'm surprised that it is possible to get a 1095 steel blade with clay tempering for around US$200 shipped, with personalization of the build. Oh, and a custom blade length (31" Nagasa) and fitted saya. Could you guys tell me where to find such a sword? Thanks!
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Post by nddave on Jul 20, 2016 22:18:42 GMT
Thanks for the advice regarding Swords of Northshire swords. I'm surprised that it is possible to get a 1095 steel blade with clay tempering for around US$200 shipped, with personalization of the build. Oh, and a custom blade length (31" Nagasa) and fitted saya. Could you guys tell me where to find such a sword? Thanks! For $200, you're not really going to find any of real value for 1095 DH especially with fitted saya. For anything decent and or that could be recommended you're going to be looking at double your price range. $400 will get you something decent for DH 1095. Anything lower is going to have sacrifices to fit and finish or may be of to low a grade to be considered durable. In your price range of $200 there are a few budget options from various vendors and manufacturers that will be good beginner blades. Probably the best place to look for safe and quality $200 katana would be , www.swordnarmory.com. They offer swords from various manufacturers in that price range that will hold up to cutting and have good fit and finish. This one is a good example for around $200. It's not 31" (29") but it will be a decent cutter and put together for the price. www.swordnarmory.com/Musashi-DH-T10-Steel-Choji-Hamon-Handmade-Samurai-p/ss-1271bk.htm
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Post by cody on Jul 21, 2016 21:14:54 GMT
I believe bugei offers a 31" option on their wave katana, but it's around $1700. For around $1200 bugei has the old pine with a 30.5" blade. Dynasty forge offers some o katana with around a 32" blade for around $6-700. Hanwei's wind and thunder has a 30" blade with o kissaki for around 600$. For someone that is going to get serious with cutting I would recommend a hanwei blade with custom tsuka. Musashi series are my favorite budget blade but they no longer make the daito. Great blade when you get rid of the 15" tsuka. The old tiger would be hell of a find. Their folded blades (k120) and their t10 (1065) are my favorite Hanwei steels. I believe my next blade will be a 29.5/11 bugei dragonfly with no hi. The high shinogi has me sold on that one, I bet it would be an awesome cutter. I also love the Kris cutlery (26/29) katanas and believe that for under $400 they are the best katana at that range. Cheers guys, Cody
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Post by jammer on Jul 21, 2016 21:17:59 GMT
Mr. Jammer, Yes, you are correct on the orientation of the cuts, sir. Tameshigiri on the other hand, is less about fighting or the aspects of fencing with a sword and more about a visual measurement of your technique/edge alignment. Does a tsuka need to be strong for cutting bamboo and grass mats? I'd say so just from a safety perspective. For the differences between panel and full wrap, I feel that some of the advantages are possibly diminished with the use of modern adhesives used on tsuka cores to keep the wrap from shifting. But, I do think that a full wrap does add quite a bit of structural augmentation to the wood core itself. I've heard this from several customizers and many practitioners have recommended this set up. Others don't share that taste and we see that same dichotomy in antiques as well. Which is right? Personally, I think there's no wrong way to eat a Reese's. Sir, I suspect, quite strongly, that we may be "talking past" one another. There is a large body of evidence supporting your statements and POV, and I am happy to leave both of our opinions to stand. Even in apparent contradiction.
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