|
Post by hypurr on Sept 9, 2015 0:39:49 GMT
After watching tons of YT videos and reading countless articles on sharpening I decided to give it a shot. Labor Day Harbor Freight had a sale and I had a 20% off coupon so I picked up a 1"x30" belt sander. I ordered an assortment of belts from Klingspor's Wood Working Shop, a cheap Seax from Amazon, a cheap throwing axe from KoA and also from KoA this rock bottom price sword. If I ruined all 3 I'm only out $120 max so I wouldn't feel bad about it. I started with an old kitchen knife and got the feel for the sander so away I went. I now have a fairly sharp cheap seax, axe and sword. I wouldn't use this sword since it would probably fly apart but the other two are now usable, the axe is actually pretty nice. The sander is pretty easy to use, even for someone that knows next to nothing about sharpening, but I can see how something could get messed up really fast. I did get brave and used the 800 grit to polish the edge of my Tinker 9th century sword and luckily I didn't make it worse and it evened out the edge. It's the one I use for cutting so it had a few marks. I'm far from being able to put a good edge on something, but now I have the tools, I just need the practice. I might get another one of the cheap swords to practice with. I can give them away as gifts, just let them know it's for hanging and not swinging. Any advice would be appreciated and welcomed.
|
|
|
Post by Croccifixio on Sept 9, 2015 5:48:28 GMT
I haven't been brave enough to sharpen with power tools. Have only gone through files, stone, and sandpaper. However, I've read that belt sanders are not going to ruin the temper of the sword unless you're really reckless and don't let the blade cool down a bit between passes (or cool it with water).
|
|
|
Post by DigsFossils-n-Knives on Sept 9, 2015 13:01:14 GMT
Croccifixio stated one of the most important tips, do not over heat the edge. If you over heat the edge you need to grind away the soft steel to get an edge again (or accept a dull spot on the blade).
I'll add, and perhaps it's very obvious, it's much easier to put an edge on a blade when the bevels are ground flat (or hollow) and to a near zero (meaning to zero thickness at the edge). You can put a great edge on a 1/2" thick hardened steel if your bevel is high enough and flat ground to zero.
Also, and again obvious, you can't put an edge or an edge that will hold on poorly heat treated soft steel.
Sorry about stating the obvious
|
|
|
Post by hypurr on Sept 9, 2015 15:10:26 GMT
Thanks. I imagine with powered tools it would be easy to overheat the blade if done improperly. Hand tools not so much but I tried them and that is an art that would take a long time to get right. I tried it on the dull axe I had and it just wasn't working out. It's not as sharp as my factory sharpened Danish battle axe but it's close and only took a few minutes.
I just ordered a Windlass Leuterit that will probably arrive blunt so I'll be sure to keep all of this in mind when I go to put an edge on it.
|
|