|
Post by snap on Aug 4, 2015 5:24:39 GMT
Hi all.
Got the DSA Crusader from KoA and the tip is slightly bent to the side. Don't know if this is damage that occurred in transit or manufacturer defect but the shipping costs associated with sending it back (I'm in Australia) are quite off putting. Any suggestions for fixing it?
|
|
|
Post by L Driggers (fallen) on Aug 4, 2015 7:45:30 GMT
Get Bigpete to beat on it with a rock, he's in Australia.
I know that wasn't any help, we will have to see a picture of how bad the tip is bent.
|
|
|
Post by aussie-rabbit on Aug 4, 2015 9:49:27 GMT
Get Bigpete to beat on it with a rock, he's in Australia. I know that wasn't any help, we will have to see a picture of how bad the tip is bent. pictures would be useful along with the state your in (don't say disappointed )
|
|
|
Post by snap on Aug 4, 2015 19:36:03 GMT
Get Bigpete to beat on it with a rock, he's in Australia. I know that wasn't any help, we will have to see a picture of how bad the tip is bent. pictures would be useful along with the state your in (don't say disappointed ) Unfortunately I need to do this from my phone and for some reason it's not working. The bend is about 1cm from the point. It's probably bent at between 5 and 10 degrees if that's of any use.
|
|
|
Post by aussie-rabbit on Aug 5, 2015 2:28:18 GMT
pictures would be useful along with the state your in (don't say disappointed ) Unfortunately I need to do this from my phone and for some reason it's not working. The bend is about 1cm from the point. It's probably bent at between 5 and 10 degrees if that's of any use. Does not sound too bad, I'll suggest you need something in the way of a big flat steel block to use as an anvil and a hard plastic engineers mallet, if you have a photobucket account you could upload photos there and paste into the forum. Where are you in Aussie ?
|
|
|
Post by snap on Aug 5, 2015 4:19:31 GMT
Unfortunately I need to do this from my phone and for some reason it's not working. The bend is about 1cm from the point. It's probably bent at between 5 and 10 degrees if that's of any use. Does not sound too bad, I'll suggest you need something in the way of a big flat steel block to use as an anvil and a hard plastic engineers mallet, if you have a photobucket account you could upload photos there and paste into the forum. Where are you in Aussie ? Was going to try with with a hardwood off cut and a rubber mallet , if that fails I'll go and get the items you recommended, cheers for the advice. I'm in Melbourne
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 5, 2015 9:54:16 GMT
Have the same issue with a Windlass Roven; on the last 7-10cm and the bent is barely visible, and for the sword has never seen any cutting, i think it happened when quenching the blade or so...i guess the plastic hammer method doesnt apply in that case?
|
|
|
Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Aug 5, 2015 11:56:47 GMT
We really need to make a sticky thread with tips on how to straighten a blade. Cold straightening works but is not good at all for the blade. I do straighten practice blades cold over the knee or by stepping on them if they get severely bent (usually by someone running straight into a thrust) but only if I have to in order to continue fighting. Much better to take a back-up blade and do it properly at home with heat:
You need: Smooth brackets in a vice, small blow-torch, high grit sandpaper and a bowl of water (and the sword)
GENTLY heat the area of the bend to straw yellow (about 180°C), pay special care with the edges, being thinner they can heat up real quick. Try to only heat the center of the blade (a small flame is necessary for this, obviously much easier on broad blades). Then quickly insert in vice (jaws slightly open so you can insert the blade easily, but close enough so you can precisely flex the blade at the right spot) and flex in opposite direction (it takes some experience and feel for the steel, usually one has to over-flex a good bit, just straight isn't enough). Immediately take out, check and cool in water. If straight, sand of the color and reheat again to straw for stress release. If still bent, sand, reheat and repeat process.
This process is a bit tricky and takes some courage because you're taking a heat source to the blade which CAN ruin the heat treat if you go too far. However, done properly it is the best way because it's the least stressful for the blade. Working under a bright light source helps when judging the colors.
|
|
|
Post by snap on Aug 5, 2015 17:09:10 GMT
We really need to make a sticky thread with tips on how to straighten a blade. Cold straightening works but is not good at all for the blade. I do straighten practice blades cold over the knee or by stepping on them if they get severely bent (usually by someone running straight into a thrust) but only if I have to in order to continue fighting. Much better to take a back-up blade and do it properly at home with heat: You need: Smooth brackets in a vice, small blow-torch, high grit sandpaper and a bowl of water (and the sword) GENTLY heat the area of the bend to straw yellow (about 180°C), pay special care with the edges, being thinner they can heat up real quick. Try to only heat the center of the blade (a small flame is necessary for this, obviously much easier on broad blades). Then quickly insert in vice (jaws slightly open so you can insert the blade easily, but close enough so you can precisely flex the blade at the right spot) and flex in opposite direction (it takes some experience and feel for the steel, usually one has to over-flex a good bit, just straight isn't enough). Immediately take out, check and cool in water. If straight, sand of the color and reheat again to straw for stress release. If still bent, sand, reheat and repeat process. This process is a bit tricky and takes some courage because you're taking a heat source to the blade which CAN ruin the heat treat if you go too far. However, done properly it is the best way because it's the least stressful for the blade. Working under a bright light source helps when judging the colors. Thanks for your reply but that does sound like quite a daunting undertaking especially seeing as I have no first hand experience with blade repair. If cold straightening is going to compromise the blade's integrity then I won't do it. Suppose I have to choose between risking an amateur straightening job or dealing with sending it back across the world. How harsh life can be at times.
|
|
pgandy
Moderator
Senior Forumite
Posts: 10,296
|
Post by pgandy on Aug 5, 2015 17:10:43 GMT
If you use a vice, and it can be a handy tool depending, pad the jaws, lead or wood will work.
|
|
|
Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Aug 5, 2015 19:24:30 GMT
Well... yes, cold straightening is going to affect the blade, it's basically taking a set in the other direction. Now, is your blade going to explode after that? No. In fact, you probably won't notice any negative side effects. Maybe if you push and abuse the blade it will be more prone to failing at that spot but I doubt you'd see anything in regular cutting use. To be honest, if shipping back is a big hassle and hot straightening isn't an option, I would cold straighten. It's not an irreplaceable or even very expensive sword either.
|
|
|
Post by aussie-rabbit on Aug 6, 2015 0:56:13 GMT
Well... yes, cold straightening is going to affect the blade, it's basically taking a set in the other direction. Now, is your blade going to explode after that? No. In fact, you probably won't notice any negative side effects. Maybe if you push and abuse the blade it will be more prone to failing at that spot but I doubt you'd see anything in regular cutting use. To be honest, if shipping back is a big hassle and hot straightening isn't an option, I would cold straighten. It's not an irreplaceable or even very expensive sword either. Cold straightening for your very minor issue is the safest method, this does not work well on a whole blade width, but is fine with tips and minor rolls on edges, if you put a "set" in a blade then heating is the next step, if you are not confident you can go to the experts at. Ace Metal Treatments 8 Sarton Rd, Clayton, VIC 3168 Phone: (03) 9543 - 1661 Fax: (03) 9544 - 1568 Website: www.acemts.com.auEmail: info@acemts.com.au
|
|
|
Post by aussie-rabbit on Aug 6, 2015 1:12:57 GMT
Have the same issue with a Windlass Roven; on the last 7-10cm and the bent is barely visible, and for the sword has never seen any cutting, i think it happened when quenching the blade or so...i guess the plastic hammer method doesnt apply in that case? For a barely visible bend I made my own "straighteners" from two adze handles, with a 45 degree slot in each, for a "how too" look here- www.sword-buyers-guide.com/straighten-sword-blade.html
|
|
|
Post by snap on Aug 6, 2015 12:54:35 GMT
Have the same issue with a Windlass Roven; on the last 7-10cm and the bent is barely visible, and for the sword has never seen any cutting, i think it happened when quenching the blade or so...i guess the plastic hammer method doesnt apply in that case? For a barely visible bend I made my own "straighteners" from two adze handles, with a 45 degree slot in each, for a "how too" look here- www.sword-buyers-guide.com/straighten-sword-blade.html This method seems best at the moment but the bend is very close to the point is there more risk of snapping it? The steel is VERY springy.
|
|
|
Post by aussie-rabbit on Aug 8, 2015 2:51:19 GMT
This method seems best at the moment but the bend is very close to the point is there more risk of snapping it? The steel is VERY springy. Can you upload some pics from your phone ? when using block straighteners you bend JUST past straight and release adding a millimetre each time you flex the blade until it's straight, it really can be harrowing on points and the like,
|
|