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Post by Matthew.Jensen on Aug 4, 2015 2:33:25 GMT
I covered it as best I could in the review. If anyone wants more info about it please let me know. This one is peened and I take it apart in the video. The other thing I would note is that the blade has a small distal taper. 6.6mm near the guard and 4.1mm near the tip. Its minor but its there.
I hope you all enjoy the review.
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Post by Croccifixio on Aug 4, 2015 3:35:17 GMT
Much better than their welded models, but why don't they put more distal taper on that thing??? I mean, is it that hard?
Thanks for the test!
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Post by chrisperoni on Aug 4, 2015 3:47:25 GMT
Great review! It'd be cool to grind down the peen heat the pommel and take it off to see inside
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Post by L Driggers (fallen) on Aug 4, 2015 4:02:01 GMT
Yes it is hard to put in proper distal taper. That's why this price it doesn't have much.
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Post by Caboose on Aug 4, 2015 5:17:52 GMT
Well, it certainly seems tough, but this model is a little heavy for my taste, and the handle looks rather strange. The placement of the bottom riser, as well as a cord overwrap both seem like very strange choices to me.
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Post by StevenJ on Aug 4, 2015 6:01:22 GMT
I shall need to do a cutting video in a full suit of my armor to one up you! Great review and dang that was destructive.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Aug 4, 2015 8:24:16 GMT
Exactly this thing, along with an Italian-sort-off and the Kromkiller-clone, have been sold in Germany for around 2-3 years now...so nothing really new here. They also crawl through ebay a lot; but theyre nice for their price...around 200,- Euros here.
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Post by Matthew.Jensen on Aug 4, 2015 15:38:17 GMT
Great review! It'd be cool to grind down the peen heat the pommel and take it off to see inside I can take it to a grinding wheel and see if I can get the pommel off the tang. I'll post some photos when I get a chance. Is there any value to cutting the blade in half to see the grain structure?
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Post by Croccifixio on Aug 5, 2015 3:08:13 GMT
Perhaps to find out how even the heat treat is?
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Post by Daigoro on Aug 5, 2015 22:35:59 GMT
Much better than their welded models, but why don't they put more distal taper on that thing??? I mean, is it that hard? Thanks for the test! Well, yes. Getting an ideal distal taper is both a technical & labor intensive process. Remember these swords are forged not made by CNC stock removal. Forging will give you a unfinished taper and shape; the sword will need to ground and polished to get a finer adjustment. This requires some skill,experience and knowledge of sword geometry. A more precise/accurate taper will still take more time. More tapering also means more likelihood of error. Metal is easier to remove than add, so a mistake in grinding means either grinding everywhere else to compensate or staring over. Budget makers have little incentive for better taper at this price point. As an example the Hanwei-Tinker line is one of the few budget end sword lines that excels in distal taper for the price point. Hanwei basically got an expert to do all the design & spec work and help with the prototypes.
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Post by Coronach on Aug 5, 2015 22:45:20 GMT
Query- can distal taper not be worked in via CNC machining? You can mill the sword in one plane, but not the other, via a CNC machine?
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Post by Daigoro on Aug 5, 2015 23:34:55 GMT
Query- can distal taper not be worked in via CNC machining? You can mill the sword in one plane, but not the other, via a CNC machine? A good explanation of the process hereSpecifically, Stage 3. Basically, the cut blank wont have the final geometry or edge because it will have still have to be heat treated and tempered.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Aug 6, 2015 6:35:32 GMT
Of course you can CNC in the distal taper. Albion does it all the time ;) Matthew Blohm: cutting the blade apart doesn't give you any information regarding the grain structure, breaking it does.
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Post by L Driggers (fallen) on Aug 6, 2015 7:13:28 GMT
You can forge in distal taper, just takes time.
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Post by Matthew.Jensen on Aug 6, 2015 15:02:25 GMT
Of course you can CNC in the distal taper. Albion does it all the time ;) Matthew Blohm: cutting the blade apart doesn't give you any information regarding the grain structure, breaking it does. Breaking the blade with blunt force does not seem to work well... But I could try and make a jig that let me hit it safely with an axe or something like that... The other thing I could try would be bending it back and forth tell it breaks... would that affect the grain structure? I don't know how bending it back and forth until it breaks will affect the heat treatment.. Maybe not at all but I am not knowledgeable in these areas.
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Post by L Driggers (fallen) on Aug 6, 2015 15:47:21 GMT
If you want to bend it back and fore until it breaks thats ok.
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Post by Daigoro on Aug 6, 2015 17:37:46 GMT
Of course you can CNC in the distal taper. Albion does it all the time ;) Matthew Blohm: cutting the blade apart doesn't give you any information regarding the grain structure, breaking it does. Breaking the blade with blunt force does not seem to work well... But I could try and make a jig that let me hit it safely with an axe or something like that... The other thing I could try would be bending it back and forth tell it breaks... would that affect the grain structure? I don't know how bending it back and forth until it breaks will affect the heat treatment.. Maybe not at all but I am not knowledgeable in these areas. You would have to apply heat to affect the grain structure. Bending steel wont do that.
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Post by StevenJ on Aug 6, 2015 19:27:49 GMT
You can forge in distal taper, just takes time. You can also bust your butt and do it with a combination of belt sanding, files, and sanding stones like I do :D
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Aug 6, 2015 20:28:09 GMT
Just put it in a vice and start bending. It will snap eventually, I guarantee it. Might take a while and look like a O before it gives in but every and any blade can be broken that way.
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Luka
Senior Forumite
Posts: 2,848
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Post by Luka on Aug 6, 2015 21:17:00 GMT
Don't destroy it, send it to meeee!
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