dsol
Member
Posts: 27
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Post by dsol on May 3, 2015 12:59:15 GMT
The Raptor arrived Friday, that thing is a beast! I had to fight the urge to start cutting things. I need to learn the proper way to swing a blade like that so I don't hurt it (or myself). A lot different than clearing a trail with a machete.
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Post by simpletin-man on Feb 21, 2017 3:30:16 GMT
Not a bad deal for 100 bucks. My 9260 came from Huawei on ebay but it was 150 due to exchange and shipping. Free shipping on this is nice. If you are patient you can get a typical ebay kat for as little as 50 dollars, just have to know how to refine your search and give it a week of so. Are you set on 9260? If you buy this or any lower cost ebay kat i would recommend you permanently epoxy the everything together from the fuchi down and lacquer the ito. Will be safer and no issues with a possible cracked tsuka. I have been researching blade steels a little, 9620 seems the best for a low cost blade in my opinion. If others have information to share, I would appreciate any and all input. I want something that is forgiving of bad technique when I start learning how to swing properly. I would like to do some medium cutting (and hard eventually). 1060 seems like a basic starter, 1090 or 1095 is a little harder, would they stand up okay if someone screws up?
I got lots of research to do here on the forum, just not enough time to read through everything at first. Sorry for the questions that have probably been answered 100's of times already. Back to reading while I suck down a couple cups of coffee...
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Post by simpletin-man on Feb 21, 2017 3:43:47 GMT
Not a bad deal for 100 bucks. My 9260 came from Huawei on ebay but it was 150 due to exchange and shipping. Free shipping on this is nice. If you are patient you can get a typical ebay kat for as little as 50 dollars, just have to know how to refine your search and give it a week of so. Are you set on 9260? If you buy this or any lower cost ebay kat i would recommend you permanently epoxy the everything together from the fuchi down and lacquer the ito. Will be safer and no issues with a possible cracked tsuka. I have been researching blade steels a little, 9620 seems the best for a low cost blade in my opinion. If others have information to share, I would appreciate any and all input. I want something that is forgiving of bad technique when I start learning how to swing properly. I would like to do some medium cutting (and hard eventually). 1060 seems like a basic starter, 1090 or 1095 is a little harder, would they stand up okay if someone screws up?
I got lots of research to do here on the forum, just not enough time to read through everything at first. Sorry for the questions that have probably been answered 100's of times already. Back to reading while I suck down a couple cups of coffee...
so ive went through bout 50 katana blades......honestly ill replace the blade myself instead of buyin a full set over and over again... im no expert but for what ive done and have witnessed when it comes to what type of steel for your money (carbon content for your buck) i personally have never broke a blade....bent of course... it happens due to bad form.....i would recommend 1095 carbon steel blades.....9260 is great and all but the preference comes to the swordsman.... do you want clay tempered....through hardened... or mono-steel or even pattern welded?.... most posts i read are from people who claim they are experts but have never owned a katana nor have the training or experience in the art of the sword.... if this makes it easier... 1040 low carbon means ill bend consistently you might as well hang me as if i was stainless steel... 1060 ill hold an edge and have some resilience... poor mans blade 5160 ill look shiny while bending..polished poor mans blade 9260 ill look like a mirror while holding form in case your dumbass performs a stroke improperly but will hurt your wallet 1095- this edge will cut you just by staring at me....and if you dull me -im full 1095 this edge will keep coming back and you wont even notice me in your wallet while edges slips me through like a hot knife in butter L6 well if you give me a perfect clay tempered hamon...im indestrucable...but will semprini your wallet..
blade structures ?? i mean if your looking aesthetic qualities- dont forget the vaseline cus im gonna make your wallet bleed like horny dog in heat maybe you should practice with cutting techniques before you consider what you want your structure to be, for i will only last as long as my creator allows me too and my wielder carries me true...
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Post by pellius on Feb 21, 2017 23:07:53 GMT
I don't practice JSA (I'm a CMA guy). Like many folks, I started with an eBay katana anyway.
I have a few inexpensive eBay katana now. All are, well, inexpensive. Nonetheless, I like each of them. As I would learn from one, I would be more specific in choosing the next. I would also poke around and ask questions here and elsewhere. Over time, I learned quite a bit, and had a great time every step of the way.
As hobbies go, it wasn't very expensive, and I now have a much better understanding of what I look for in a sword. The flaws and shortcomings of my first swords are pretty glaring to me now, but I'm still glad to have them.
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Post by alexeireyes on Apr 25, 2021 4:24:38 GMT
I bought a tachi from Tsunami Dragon but I got it straight from their website and not eBay. This is the link to the tachi I bought in March 2021: www.shinken-sword.com/Japanese-Swords/Shinken/Tachi/Battle-Ready-Razor-Sharp-Japanese-Samurai-Tachi-Sword-Clay-Tempered-Kobuse-Folded-Steel-Razor-Sharp. To be honest, I'm very much happy with my purchase. I paid a little extra for the customization. Overall, the quality of the blade is exquisite. The blade is heavier than the ones from my other tachi because it's thicker. Nevertheless, the balance is excellent and it's great for tameshigiri (after some sharpening on my own using Japanese 1,000 and 6,000 whetstones which I bought elsewhere). The quality of the build is very sturdy. The tsuka, koshirae, tsuba and habaki fit perfectly too. I'm attaching pics of them for your viewing. The leather ito also gives a firm grip although I'm more used to silk. There are only two minor negative things I noticed: 1. The ha of the blade is not fully sharpened: an inch below the kissaki is not sharpened so I have to sharpen this manually with a whetstone. The rest of the blade is razor-sharp though. 2. As I perform my noto by twisting the saya so that the cutting edge is facing upward as in a katana, I have to twist the blade slightly to make sure it's entering at a slight angle (approx 3 degrees) facing outside so that the habaki can fit. Otherwise, there's a lot of resistance. Other than these two minor points, I'm very much happy with my purchase. I'll get another one just like this and make sure I get a silk ito for a change since I kinda prefer the feel of silk to leather which is just a personal preference.
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tera
Moderator
Posts: 1,650
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Post by tera on Feb 9, 2024 23:55:15 GMT
I can't believe I have to say this, but we do not tolerate threats of violence here. Consider this your first and last warning. [Offending post deleted]
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Post by yelman on Feb 12, 2024 22:44:25 GMT
I pulled the trigger on a Raptor Shobu here in the classifieds, should be in my hands next week. Thought I should not take a chance with my first... and the Raptor has nothing but good recommendations on this board. I am afraid this is going to be the first step down a long and expensive road... dammit. lol…very long and expensive…
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Post by Arlequin on Feb 13, 2024 21:54:05 GMT
Well now I'm curious who was making threats in a zombie thread lol
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Post by eastman on Feb 14, 2024 2:33:19 GMT
I don't think it was a forum regular. IIRC the now deleted post was a first post from a new member.
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