Arkhane
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Still figurin' this out.
Posts: 312
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Post by Arkhane on Apr 13, 2015 7:29:41 GMT
Who here uses a compound bow, whether it's made by PSE, Diamond, or SAS, or any other brand/anti-brand? I prefer to use recurve, for the simplicity, but I feel the compound bow will really help destroy a mental block I have when using a recurve or other traditional bow.
I just bought an SAS Wizard, because it was affordable and I'm not ready for a $500 brute. Draws nice when you let off some of the weight, but I haven't fired it yet. Waiting on a whisker biscuit to replace the weird little bolt with the V shape that screws into the rest slot.
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Post by Timo Nieminen on Apr 13, 2015 7:59:08 GMT
What mental block, if you don't mind saying?
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Post by bigpete on Apr 13, 2015 9:05:54 GMT
Ditto the above . I've shot all sorts of bows over the years , not sure if a compound will help you or not really. It will add a great amount of stuffing around to your shooting is all I can say :-)
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Post by Deleted on Apr 13, 2015 9:52:02 GMT
Compound and recurve here.
To be honest, compound bows might give you more of a feeling of accomplishment much sooner because they're inherently more accurate, especially with sights, and with more power can shoot an arrow flatter, but when you have to stuff around with them to tune them up, there are so many bits that you can mess with, that you spend more time making adjustments than practising archery.
I am tending back towards the simplicity of a barebow recurve, they take more practise to maintain accuracy and they do take more skill to shoot. I reckon they're completely different bows, and while a compound bow can really build confidence fast, there's nothing like lots of practise on whatever type of bow you're using.
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Arkhane
Member
Still figurin' this out.
Posts: 312
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Post by Arkhane on Apr 13, 2015 20:34:35 GMT
No matter the draw weight (anything below 75 lbs), I can anchor a recurve when I know for a fact I will not be firing it. But as soon as I step up to fire it, I get all shaky armed and mentally cannot pull it all the way back to anchor. Compound bows allow me to break through this little wall I have.
My anxiety seems to be focused on the arrow for some reason. Like, I'm anticipating the arrow wrapping around the riser and somehow impaling my eyes. Silly, I know, but semprini if I can't shake it.
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Post by bigpete on Apr 13, 2015 21:33:12 GMT
Try shooting at a huge backstop with your eyes shut, that may help you get over it. I don't think owning a compound,especially one designed for release aids,is going to really help.
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Post by bigpete on Apr 13, 2015 21:41:55 GMT
With your eyes shut,just concentrate on getting proper back tension and form,then release. It would be best to do this with a lighter bow so your not fighting the draw weight and getting distracted from the task at hand. Make sure you achieve a good solid anchor. Do this until it becomes second nature. Then open your eyes and try it,concentrating on getting the same feel as before. I won't tell you how to aim,where to anchor,or how to hold your bow,as far as I'm concerned that's up for every individual to decide. Its more important to make sure everything you do is consistent. And you more than likely have your own technique anyway :-)
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Post by Mikemech on Apr 13, 2015 23:11:17 GMT
I went the other way, starting with a compound then going to recurve, and that got me shaky at first. It sounds like your paying too much attention to the hardware, the arrow for sure, maybe the bow too? I was used to paying attention to the compound's hardware, and that was fine for a compound. Then I had someone show me something neat.
Just after you nock an arrow, have it pointed at 45 degrees towards the floor and hold it there while you STARE HARD at the center of the target for three long seconds (works best @ 10 yards with a small target like a heart card or apple card). At the end of the three seconds, pull up to anchor and keep the SAME focus at the center of that target for just enough time that the anchor is placed good, then let it fly.
Here, you judge the aim like you're throwing a ball. There's no need for using the hardware for aiming now, so I'd say if you have sights on the recurve, take em off for now. Because you're not peeping any hardware on the target, it wont mess up any future aiming efforts. Later on, you're just overlaying the sight onto the existing focus you've established, allowing you to keep your own technique for aiming.
This isn't meant to tell you how to aim, that's why you can go back to the sights later. This is about focusing away from the hardware. Just remember to keep consistent with your anchor. After firing a few off, you should also see some better grouping.
Hope this helps, It sure did for me.
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Post by bigpete on Apr 13, 2015 23:51:30 GMT
Your talking about instinctive aiming
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Post by Rifleman Lizard on Apr 13, 2015 23:55:52 GMT
There aren't any trade secrets. Archery being the art of repetition and strength is all about productive and regular practice. To see improvements in form, scoring and grouping; archers have to dedicate long sessions to the same kit week in and week out. Changing something as simple as arrow spine can push a person back to the drawing board.
With that in mind, switching to another bow type altogether to work around your habits and issues with the original isn't a good way of dealing with them. Recurve and compound bows necessitate different techniques in draw, hold, release and more. They aren't the same thing and I'd personally recommend sticking with one format until you become more experienced in your chosen type. Switching to a compound to help with your recurve is like learning to ride a bike to then help you drive a car.
I like PSE and Hoyt compounds, don't like Bear, though I primarily shoot recurve (W&W, MK, Hoyt, Easton, Shibuya) and keep English longbows for outdoor CLOUT season.
I can't fathom why you're worrying about arrows doing a 180 when using any bow. Even when using a traditional warbow, you're in no danger of arrows turning around and coming back. You've more chance of being struck by lightning. ;)
Have fun and take your time. Quick fixes are rarely worth worrying about but your safety is important too. You could even wear shooting glasses if it helps put your mind at ease.
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Post by Mikemech on Apr 14, 2015 0:02:04 GMT
I am. Just so long as it isn't rushed. Its pretty important to take some time before coming to the ready. I hear too often that instinctive aiming means that you end up firing away so fast and in rapid succession. Didn't want make it seem anything like what Lars Anderson is doing. But yes, it is instinctive aiming.
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Post by chrisperoni on Apr 14, 2015 0:07:49 GMT
Would it maybe help to try a very low weight recurve? 10 or 15lb. With an extra long arrow just so you know it's way past the riser and can't slip off the rest?
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Arkhane
Member
Still figurin' this out.
Posts: 312
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Post by Arkhane on Apr 14, 2015 1:04:10 GMT
I have a 30lb slime green youth bow. When I've shot a compound bow a few times, I find I can anchor a recurve with much, much less mental effort. And then it returns the next day.
I do not like the idea of shooting blind though. I can't even release an arrow while blind. I appreciate the suggestion though.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 15, 2015 7:52:36 GMT
Are you sure you're not "overbowed", it's hard to be confident when you have to fight the bow to anchor it. It's one thing to draw a bow, it's another to be able to keep it stable and shoot it well. Too much draw weight and your form suffers. When I see some of the draw weights archers use in the US, they are way higher than what we use here down under. I strongly suspect there is a cultural tendency to go to too heavy over there in the States.
Also, you're not meant to hold the recurve anchored for any length of time like you can do with a compound bow which has cams and 'letoff' so you only anchor a fraction of the draw weight - that teaches really bad habits. Only anchor long enough to aim, then smoothly release.
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Post by bigpete on Apr 15, 2015 11:34:39 GMT
I'm not sure I agree with you about the poundage issue blackthorn,I'm a member of a few different bow hunting affiliated forums and I actually find that,in the bow hunting world at least, the opposite is true. There are way more people shooting 55# and under in america it seems,while a lot of Australian hunters tend to use 60# or over. I myself use a 65#@30" recurve and a 75#@29.5" longbow as my mainstays. I also will say that t times I've had to hold those bows back a considerable amount of time before firing the shot. But I really do think that your right in regards to overbowing in this circumstance. And if shooting a recurve is what arkhane wants to achieve,I really don't think buying a compound will help. But each to their own.
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Arkhane
Member
Still figurin' this out.
Posts: 312
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Post by Arkhane on Apr 15, 2015 21:36:32 GMT
Well, it's not the only reason I bought a compound. I shot a compound before, and I really like how smooth it shoots and all the customizable options a compound brings. I'm just hoping I could get used to anchoring properly before releasing the arrow. Has nothing to do with draw weight or building shoulder strength.
Getting off the subject, what are some of the more subtle differences between traditional archery and mechanical? I haven't shot compound long enough to get used to peep sights or mechanical releases, so I'd like to hear y'alls stories.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 16, 2015 0:45:47 GMT
I'm not sure I agree with you about the poundage issue blackthorn,I'm a member of a few different bow hunting affiliated forums and I actually find that,in the bow hunting world at least, the opposite is true. There are way more people shooting 55# and under in america it seems,while a lot of Australian hunters tend to use 60# or over. I myself use a 65#@30" recurve and a 75#@29.5" longbow as my mainstays. I also will say that t times I've had to hold those bows back a considerable amount of time before firing the shot. But I really do think that your right in regards to overbowing in this circumstance. And if shooting a recurve is what arkhane wants to achieve,I really don't think buying a compound will help. But each to their own. Thanks Pete, looks like trends may have changed with bow draw weights Aus vs US in the past decade from what you're saying, I don't disagree. Probably the guys in the US realised their accuracy suffered when hunting overbowed and went back to sensible draw weights, the aussies here may have not caught on yet, we're always following US trends a few years later...
With holding the shot briefly, I should have specified I meant target practice, not hunting where you may have to anchor for a while to get a clear shot and proper target placement, which further increases the importance of a manageable draw weight. A lot also has to do with the build of the archer, a guy with a small frame shouldn't go for huge bow draw weights that a big solid bloke would be at home with.
The other thing people need to keep in mind is that if they're training at the archery range they will be shooting round after round for a few hours, many dozens of arrows, so they will need a bow draw weight that you can shoot for a few hours continuously, as opposed to a hunting trip where they might be lucky to fire a dozen arrows in a day.
I've seen beginners get the shakes as they try to draw bows way too hard for them at the archery range, and I agree, it does sound like overbowing, and you're right, I wouldn't be using a compound, it detracts from training because you're learning to shoot a different type of bow. The best solution would be to aim for a lower draw weight recurve, and when the archer has developed more strength using it, they will eventually be able to handle the higher draw weight confidently if it is a reasonable draw weight for their size.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 16, 2015 0:57:57 GMT
Well, it's not the only reason I bought a compound. I shot a compound before, and I really like how smooth it shoots and all the customizable options a compound brings. I'm just hoping I could get used to anchoring properly before releasing the arrow. Has nothing to do with draw weight or building shoulder strength. Getting off the subject, what are some of the more subtle differences between traditional archery and mechanical? I haven't shot compound long enough to get used to peep sights or mechanical releases, so I'd like to hear y'alls stories. I shoot compound too, and I've shot it with pin sights, and pins sights with a peep sight in the string. I find I can shoot almost as accurately without the peep sight so it's really optional in my mind. It's annoying if you don't bind it well and it creeps along the bowstring, stuffing up your aim, you think your form is getting crap really fast then you realise the peep has moved! I have a peep sight currently installed, but I can take it or leave it.
I've always shot with fingers, hate mechanical release aids, as I shoot recurve with fingers so my anchoring and release stays the same and one less gadget to worry about. Some people love them. In my mind if I'm going to use a bow with a trigger I might as well use a crossbow which is way more accurate!
With the letoff you're not anchoring much weight so you can play around with getting your anchoring and release perfect, that's the main benefit. Peep sights and release aids are optional. Be interested to hear what others experience is.
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Post by Timo Nieminen on Apr 16, 2015 7:28:41 GMT
I'm just hoping I could get used to anchoring properly before releasing the arrow. What's your anchor point? How long do you hold it there? Is this the same with the compound? How does your draw length compare with the maximum draw length of the bow? Anyway, some suggestions: Depending on the bow and style of archery, you don't necessarily "anchor properly", i.e., hold the string against your face before you shoot. Or one only does so very briefly (especially with high draw weight bows). Perhaps some variation in style might be helpful. Perhaps longer arrows might help? Or different arrows? If your bow will cope, might be useful to draw (without intending to shoot) to a longer distance with a longer arrow. Then you know you're not taking the bow to its limits with your normal draw. Since you can anchor when you're not going to shoot, plan to not shoot, and draw and anchor. Repeat. Then some time when you're happy with your anchor, just change your mind and shoot. Don't know if you can fool yourself like that, but you could try.
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Arkhane
Member
Still figurin' this out.
Posts: 312
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Post by Arkhane on Apr 16, 2015 17:16:41 GMT
My anchor point is the corner of the mouth for me.
Looking for some arrows to order, and trying to learn each arrow company's sizing differences (because they are not uniformed for some semprini reason) had been the most frustrating ordeal thus far. It's like they are just throwing random sizes, alloys, grains per inch, and deflection ratings at you! I am nowhere near a dedicated archery shop, so it seems I have to pick a brand and pray that they have my specific ratings. But they never do.
What do you guys suggest when hunting for arrows online?
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