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Post by Kiyoshi on Aug 23, 2015 7:19:43 GMT
From what I hear about L6 is that the edge dulls rather quick comparatively. And those are hanwei L6 which is supposed to be treated really well. I've never held an L6 so i would want to before I bought one, just to see the feel. I really like the steel texture though, and the color difference in the tempered and non tempered area. I've always been someone to like simple and calm things with a subtle touch of elegance. The swords all look okay for their price. A couple some some crisp geometry changes. Make sure you post a review of the L6 though.
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Post by MessengerofDarkness on Aug 23, 2015 7:28:14 GMT
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Post by Kiyoshi on Aug 23, 2015 7:35:29 GMT
My wallet would die just attempting to buy another sword, lol. I'm just a poor college student. School is a pain to pay for when you have no grants. XD
That is a nice looking sword though. I've always been a fan of brown on black. Thinking of getting a light brown sageo on my katana.
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Post by MessengerofDarkness on Aug 23, 2015 7:37:49 GMT
My wallet would die just attempting to buy another sword, lol. I'm just a poor college student. School is a pain to pay for when you have no grants. XD That is a nice looking sword though. I've always been a fan of brown on black. Thinking of getting a light brown sageo on my katana. I would be too, but I've already got a brown ito and sageo katana, so I asked for some changes - same saya, and black same, but with dark blue ito and matching sageo - I was really drawn into the colour scheme after seeing images like this: :D
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Post by Kiyoshi on Aug 23, 2015 7:41:05 GMT
That is pretty nice. I've always felt that colored ito would turn out like my iaito and stain with a lot of use (I train about an hour a day most days of the week). My current sword being made is black on black on black. Lol. The only part not black is the habaki and seppa which are silver. The sword will have no menuki. I am thinking about a light brown sageo for just a little bit of an accent color while still looking as plain as possible.
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Post by MessengerofDarkness on Aug 23, 2015 14:14:08 GMT
So as to not take the original topic too far off it's intended point, and to not clutter things too much (XD), here's a relevant video I found:
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Post by aussie-rabbit on Aug 23, 2015 15:01:14 GMT
So as to not take the original topic too far off it's intended point, and to not clutter things too much (XD), here's a relevant video I found: Your points are valid, ie. Ryan swords are problematic, you MAY get a good one, there is an equal chance you may not, good odds to put money on. ?
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Post by MessengerofDarkness on Aug 23, 2015 15:05:00 GMT
Yeah, considering his first katana broke, and his wakizashi had a major flaw in its tang, I'm not gonna lose any sleep if I don;t purchase a Ryan Sword any time soon - from what I've gathered, other ebay sellers like Huawei and ST-Nihonto are generally regarded as more reliable, sans a few who think otherwise.
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Post by MessengerofDarkness on Aug 24, 2015 20:35:07 GMT
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Mikeeman
Member
Small Business Operator
Posts: 2,904
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Post by Mikeeman on Aug 24, 2015 21:01:36 GMT
The one in the picture APPEARS to be. However, it's not likely that they would send you one that is actually laminated. And at $450, it should have a much better tsuka shape and wrap. Most everything on it appears to be gimmicky and poorly put together.
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Post by MessengerofDarkness on Aug 26, 2015 18:15:45 GMT
In a quick update on my custom L6 katana, Sheng has sent me some pics with the finished blade and the tsuka - the koshi zori looks rather nice, and the tsuka is indeed a full wrap, as I requested (I'll make a separate thread with full review once it is finished and I receive it): The blade: And tsuka: Thoughts?
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Post by Kiyoshi on Aug 26, 2015 18:19:51 GMT
Not bad. Seems to have some good dimensions. I definitely like the sori. I have a picture or my bare blade but the nakago is huge. He said it would be cut down later. He said he was done with the saya and all of that, just he had to polish the blade, assemble, and send it out. He is making good time.
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Post by MessengerofDarkness on Aug 26, 2015 18:27:01 GMT
Yeah - I expected it to be a month or so before the blade would be forged,but I'm pleasantly surprised for it to only be about two weeks along. :D
The koshi zori was a major request for me, and I'm really happy to see that it doesn't look to be overdone.
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Post by Kiyoshi on Aug 26, 2015 18:28:08 GMT
It is very nice. Makes me want one as well. lol
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Post by MessengerofDarkness on Aug 26, 2015 18:35:03 GMT
Haha, thanks - long as it's not mine, that it. ;) (MINE MINE MINE!)
Considering an Odachi next, if this one is good... heh.
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Post by DigsFossils-n-Knives on Aug 26, 2015 21:20:40 GMT
The stock photo looks like it has a lamination line, but it's a stock photo and not the photo of the blade being sold. What you get might be completely different.
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Post by DigsFossils-n-Knives on Aug 26, 2015 21:23:02 GMT
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Post by MessengerofDarkness on Aug 26, 2015 21:37:50 GMT
I thought that the hamon always depends on the degree of polish - in Sheng's L6 katanas, they look to be hazuya polish, as opposed to Howard Clark's masterful work, which is more of a complete polish. Plus, I certainly don't expect the quality of L6 steel provided by Sheng to be as good as Howard's L6 Bainite, more like T10 or 1095. As well, I'm sure that differences in the forging and tempering process may play a hand in their varying appearances, to a point.
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Post by DigsFossils-n-Knives on Aug 26, 2015 21:49:38 GMT
The hamon also depends on the composition of the steel and the heat treat quench. From my research very few people know how to get a hamon on L6 -- a deep hardening steel with a moderately high Mn, Cr, and Ni. But I'm sure there are folks in this forum that know better.
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Post by MessengerofDarkness on Aug 26, 2015 21:54:37 GMT
From what I understand, L6 is an alloy steel:
C= 0.70 Mn= 0.60 Si= 0.25 Cr= 0.70 Ni= 1.40
L6 requires special heat treatment and care to obtain Bainite eg.
Upper Bainite: So-called "upper Bainite" forms around 400–550 °C in sheaves.
Lower Bainite forms between 250 and 400 °C and takes a more plate-like form than upper Bainite. Without careful treatment L6 is just alloy steel, in addition L6 requires greater care to prevent rust forming.
From what I've found.
But at the same time, how do you know what kind of steel ANY sword manufacturer uses? Not that I'm knocking any other sword manufacturers, but at the same time, a certain degree of trust is necessary for any company - further trust is founded upon rigorous tests and reviews of the swords supplied, which I intend to do.
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