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Post by Iridionprime on Jul 15, 2014 15:37:04 GMT
Basically, what are the pros and cons of each of these steel types? I looked at so many different sources and I still can't decide on which steel is best for me.
Which of these steels would be able to take a hell of a beating and always return to true? Any advice on which manufacturer is best as well? Thanks.
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Scott
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Post by Scott on Jul 15, 2014 15:45:49 GMT
Proper heat treatment is going to make more of a difference than the type of steel. Is there a particular type of sword that you're after?
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Post by Iridionprime on Jul 15, 2014 16:35:41 GMT
Um not really; but I think I would prefer a curved sword over a traditional euro straight blade. I think I'd go for something like a katana I guess.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jul 15, 2014 16:56:26 GMT
If youre not scared of an unusual design, i would recommend the Zombie Tools Apokatana; just received mine. ZT blades are very well made, not too high in price, and are made of 5160 or 6150 springsteel, hardened to around 54 Rockwell. A modern, very flexible steel, but not whippy at all. But their designs are..."unusual". Check them out. You can see my sword under "new accquisitions", some days ago. Gonna give her a woodcore scabbard in time.
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Post by johnwalter on Jul 15, 2014 18:12:58 GMT
No sword will return true if pushed to far,and theres the rub.How far is too far for each steel.Proper heat treat and temper is going to determine that. In my experiences,T10 blades Ive used have little flex back,meaning they hit a point quickly whete they bend and stay bent.Of course heat treat and temper is the deciding factor.Ive used T10 from a few different vendors. The toughest most resilient thru hardened spring steel blades Ive used/tested have been the Hanwei Raptor series(5160) and Tsunami(9260).
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Post by Iridionprime on Jul 16, 2014 0:15:06 GMT
oh that's good to hear, I've been eyeing the hanwei raptor for some time.
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Scott
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Post by Scott on Jul 16, 2014 3:12:50 GMT
Have a browse through the reviews and see what catches your eye. I should warn you though, you might end up wanting lots of swords...
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jul 16, 2014 15:29:53 GMT
Hehehehehehe... :twisted:
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Post by David on Jul 1, 2016 17:07:39 GMT
Guys T10 or 9260 ? T10 - Differental hardened and 9260 - mono T10 is Ryujin and the 9260 is from swords of northshire
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Post by DigsFossils-n-Knives on Jul 1, 2016 17:25:10 GMT
When properly heat treated: T10 @ DH will give you a longer lasting edge tthan 9260 9260 @ mono will give you a tougher blade than T10
But I don't know if Ryujin or SoN heat treats properly or not.
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Post by johnwalter on Jul 1, 2016 18:06:16 GMT
If I absolutely had to buy one of those brands,I mean no other choice.Probably Ryujin.Hearing decent things lately.
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Post by Aurélien on Jul 1, 2016 18:40:23 GMT
Hanwei 5160, hands down. Flexible and VERY durable. Much more than any other steel I handled (hsw1, dh 1065, th 1060, Swedish powder...) After 5 years of (almost) weekly use, my oldest Raptor is as sharp and effective as day one. No dent, no bent, only a lot of scratches
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Post by gundy on Jul 1, 2016 21:58:31 GMT
Hanwei 5160, hands down. Flexible and VERY durable. Much more than any other steel I handled (hsw1, dh 1065, th 1060, Swedish powder...) After 5 years of (almost) weekly use, my oldest Raptor is as sharp and effective as day one. No dent, no bent, only a lot of scratches Raptor's fitting is also much less generic than other beater katanas IMO, which is a huge plus to me
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Post by MeeM on Jun 16, 2019 10:43:30 GMT
i think, t10A is true stuff.
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Post by MeeM on Jun 16, 2019 10:44:21 GMT
i think, t10A is true stuff. But not better than tamahagane :/
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Post by nddave on Jun 16, 2019 16:37:58 GMT
i think, t10A is true stuff. But not better than tamahagane :/ What do you mean with this comment? Also there's a edit feature so you don't have to quote yourself.
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Post by L Driggers (fallen) on Jun 16, 2019 16:49:36 GMT
But not better than tamahagane :/ What do you mean with this comment? Also there's a edit feature so you don't have to quote yourself. I have no idea what he is talking about, don't think he does either.
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Post by nddave on Jun 16, 2019 17:00:51 GMT
What do you mean with this comment? Also there's a edit feature so you don't have to quote yourself. I have one idea what he is talking about, don't think he does either. Must not of wanted to continue the discussion either as he's now unregistered.
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Post by Croccifixio on Jun 17, 2019 1:58:33 GMT
Assuming competent heat treat:
T10 - very high carbon (around 1%), excels at differentially heat-treated blades (like katana with hamon) with high edge hardness.
5160 - high manganese, low chromium, high carbon (around 0.55-0.65%), relatively easy to heat treat, excels at through-hardened blades tempered to be like a spring.
9260 - high manganese, high silicon, high carbon (around 0.55-0.65%), relatively easy to heat treat, excels at through-hardened blades tempered to be like a spring, a bit more expensive than 5160.
1060 - plain high carbon steel (around 0.55-0.65%), very easy to forge and heat treat, can be differentially or through-tempered. One of the cheapest plain carbon steels.
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