Ronin Dojo Pro
Mar 6, 2014 1:11:01 GMT
Post by frankthebunny on Mar 6, 2014 1:11:01 GMT
Ronin Dojo Pro Katana - #4 Lotus
A review by
Josh Marlan
NC, USA
3/4/2014
Today I will be reviewing a Ronin Dojo Pro katana(no-hi). I recently bought this katana brand new from a fellow member via his ad in the classifieds.
Introduction
To be honest, this sword really needs no introduction as it has become a forum favorite since it's introduction in the SBG Store years ago. It is a hearty katana in the Dotanuki blade style and is made from 1060 through-hardened steel.
I am here now to give my honest opinion of the sword and nothing else. You can take what I have to say in any way you choose but I only mean it one way, I am reviewing another katana, as I see it, and sharing only my personal and honest opinions. Basically, take it or leave it.
Historical Background
Many of you are already familiar with the namesake of this blade style but just to add some more info I will simply link to wikipedia. Of course to elaborate on the basic and sometimes inaccurate info this site provides, you should do your own research through other sources as well.
I did find this picture comparing an example of a Dotanuki blade with an average sized shinogi-zukuri blade.
Full Disclosure
I do not work for nor have any association with the Ronin Katana company and I am not being compensated in any way for doing this review. While I didn't pay full price from the Ronin Katana website or from the SBG Store, I did pay the asking price from the seller and it is my sword. Furthermore, I have no axe to grind, nor any grudge or agenda, I am simply reviewing this sword because it's the first time I've had the opportunity to do so. For anyone that might see it another way, frankly that's their problem not mine.
Specifications
Steel type: 1060
Sugata: Shinogi-zukuri
Tempering: Through-hardened
Hamon: None
Polish: Basic
Boshi: None
Nagasa: 27 1/4"
Motohaba: 32 mm
Sakihaba: 23.5 mm
Motokasane: 7.9 mm
Sakikasane: 5 mm
Weight w/saya: 3.01 Lbs
Weight w/out saya: 2.48 Lbs
Weight blade alone: 1.79 Lbs/ 812 gr
POB: 4 1/2"
Kissaki: O-kissaki/57mm
Sori: Tori, 3/4"
Tsuka: 11 1/4"
Tsuka-Ito: Synthetic silk
Initial Impression
When I first unpacked this sword I immediately thought it felt very heavy. It is true that it is on the heavy side for it's length but then again I had just been handling a much lighter bo-hi katana as well as a lighter no-hi katana and it felt that much heavier by comparison. Otherwise I was not surprised by much else since I've seen dozens of these swords on the forums as well as having worked on many of the RDP tsuka. It was what I was expecting.
This katana was in good condition as was described in the ad and everything seemed in order after a quick inspection.
Tsuka
Omote
I don't mean to start out on a sour note but this is usually the first part of the katana I begin with and in this case, it's the weakest aspect of the RDP.
The tsuka is quite thick and rounded and for me, a bit uncomfortable.
It certainly is not the largest tsuka out there as far as girth and compared to some manufacturers, it can be considered to be on the thin side. It is obvious that Ronin has tried to give this tsuka more of a shape than some others but it doesn't really fall into any one standard tsuka shape classification. It is closest to a rikko(hourglass) shape but I feel that instead of terminating at the widest part near the kashira as it should, it goes from wide(at the fuchi) to narrow(in the center) to wide(after the center) back to narrow again to finish off at the kashira.
The lines I added in this picture are exaggerated but illustrate what I am trying to describe
Ura
The end knots are on the wrong sides, as are many production tsuka in this class.
The ito overlaps the rim of the kashira which indicates that the length of the core is not correct for the width of the ito used and leaves the tsukamaki-shi with a half width space at the end of the wrap. This is also unfortunately a fairly common issue with many production tsuka.
Omote
Ura
The ito does alternate properly down the length.
There are no hishigami used so this results in uneven diamonds. The combination of the slippery synthetic silk ito, lack of hishigami, and loose tsukamki can lead to the wrap becoming loose very quickly which is one of the few complaints reported by RDP owners.
This ito was very easy to move with just a little pressure as are the menuki.
The end knots were also very easy to move and after only a few pushes with my thumb, the finishing knot was almost undone which would lead to the ito unraveling. While working on these tsuka before, I noticed that the tsukamaki is finished in a strange way. Instead of the two strands passing through the kashira ana, one goes through while the other goes underneath the kashira.
The ito doesn't slide up and down the sides of the tsuka however because there is a heavy layer of very sticky glue applied.
The samegawa is decent quality panels with small sized nodes that have been polished enough so the surface isn't so rough which is good for the longevity of the ito.
The mekugi are healthy and hard enough so they don't easily dent when removing and inserting them through the mekugi-ana.
The tsuka core was in good shape and had no cracks or other defects I could notice except that the grain pattern on the omote side is going in the wrong direction for optimal strength. One thing I was really glad to see was that the seam in the core was not in the center but rather to one side the way it should be but almost never is on production tsuka.
Menuki
I think these are some type of stylized dragon made of solid brass. They are not a matched set, meaning they are the same piece on both sides of the tsuka.
Fuchi and Kashira
This set is plain and simple but very strong and made of steel. They are both painted black.
The kashira has fitted blackened brass shitodome.
Seppa
The seppa are an average but strong stamped brass set with a coin edge. The fit is a little loose from front to back but are tight side to side.
They are the same size
Habaki
The habaki on the Ronin Dojo Pro is cast brass but strong and has two grooves carved across the sides and a vertical file pattern on the lower half which is a step up from the boring polished look.
There is no machigane per say but there is a little indentation where the ha-machi sits.
Tsuba
The blackened steel tsuba on this model is in the design of a lotus flower and has been cut by cnc or similar process. While it is a fairly attractive sukashi design, the edges are extremely sharp and uncomfortable if it rubs against your skin. While I was cutting with this sword I actually caught my thumbnail on the sharp edge during a swing and it tore my nail about 1/4"
That's the first time that has happened to me.
Some shots of the tsuba, seppa, and habaki together.
You can see there are some small gaps between the habaki and blade
Saya
The saya is in a standard gloss black lacquer finish. The koiguchi, kurikata, and kojiri are stated to be of buffalo horn. I wasn't sure if it was buffalo horn since I'd never seen any of this color and transparency before, so to check, I filed and sanded the surface but there wasn't the typical smell of burning hair I usually smell when working with natural horn. I also tried lighting the shavings but still no usual horn smell. Since I don't want to damage the pieces on this sword I will leave it alone for now and I'll assume they are real horn. Maybe they are not from the usual Indonesian Water Buffalo but instead some other horned animal with a more translucent horn. Either way, these fittings are attractive and strong and make this otherwise plain looking saya stand out from the others. The saya is complimented by a typical synthetic silk black and white sageo.
The koiguchi fit is nice and tight on the habaki but opens quickly with a little pressure from a thumb against the tsuba rim. It stays put even when holding and shaking the sword upside down. There is an obvious rattle of the blade inside when shaken. There is also a large amount of wax that gets deposited on the blade every time it is sheathed, this however wipes off pretty easily with glass cleaner.
The wood at the ha side is missing at the koiguchi
The black lacquer is a little thin on the sides of the kurikata and you can see the wood underneath
Blade
The blade on this sword is definitely not for those who are looking for fancy and nimble. This is a thick and heavy blade meant to take on heavy targets. The shinogi ji is in near mirror polish while the ji is closer to a satin finish but is still reflective.
Since it is through-hardened there is no intentional hamon to speak of but yet there is one of the almost legendary "ghost hamon" present on portions of the blade.
(the marks are wax from the saya)
The blade is even along the length without any waves or bumps.
The kissaki is very large at 2 1/4" but does not have a geometric yokote.
It is cross polished to distinguish it from the rest of the blade
The fukura is shaped well but the koshinogi could be more carefully polished imho. This is purely an aesthetic issue and has no effect on the performance whatsoever.
There is an uneven rougher polish on the top of the kissaki which I'm unsure is intentional or not. The iori mune runs dead center down to the very tip.
The nakago is very thick as is the blade. It has some slight burring on the edge of the two mekugi-ana.
The ha and mune-machi are uneven but cut cleanly.
Here you can see the kengyo nakagojiri and the mei.
There is really no niku but the blade is over a 1/4" thick anyway so I'm not so sure it's even necessary for a heavy blade like this. There does seem to be a bit of a bevel at the very edge or steep ha niku present.
Fit and Finish
I have to say that while the fit is good and tight all around, the finish is somewhat lacking. I don't personally see this sword as one for display really so I'm not overly concerned with the aesthetics as much as with the function. The fittings were all tight upon first inspection and stayed that way after dis-assembly and reassembly and then still after heavy cutting. The loose ito could be a major problem however for anyone who isn't willing or able to re-wrap the tsuka.
I have personally wrapped over half a dozen RDP tsuka and am about to wrap two more not including this one. If not for the poorly done tsukamaki, I feel this sword would hold up well for a long time of regular use. I understand this is not the case on every RDP sold, I am just stating what I found on this sword and the others I'm aware of. If your tsuka has the same issues, you can contact the seller you bought it from for an exchange.
Handling
The RDP katana is on the heavy side and the handling is comparable to the Hanwei Wind and Thunder imho (as there happens to be one here at the time). I personally prefer a lighter more agile sword but for those who like to feel the power in the swing, this should be just right for you. While heavy, the balance is pretty decent and the 4 1/2" POB helps.
I found the tsuka a little uncomfortable after about a half hour of cutting but this will be personal preference I think since some like a thicker tsuka. I felt confident that the strong blade would cut my chosen targets easily and it did, sometimes I didn't even feel any resistance in the cut. I am not really in practice or very skilled with a katana but I would personally prefer a lighter, more agile sword for trick cutting unless you have more wrist and forearm strength.
Overall I think it handled pretty well despite it's weight. I haven't cut them but I think this sword would go through tatami all day with little issue as it was intended.
Cutting
I cut water bottles, pool noodles, and Kudzu vines with this sword and had no trouble with any of these targets.
I did rip my thumbnail when it caught on the sharp edges of the tsuba design which I mentioned above.
Here is a video clip covering most of my session
Picking Nits
I guess I can go more the tsuka here but I think I covered it well enough above. I will say here that I don’t like that it is advertised as having silk ito. This can obviously be misleading and should be changed imho.
I’m also not too sure how closely this blade represents those made by the Dotanuki school, though I would have to do more research to really compare. It is a wide and thick blade but other than that, I don’t see too many similarities with any historical examples I've seen. I would like to see some different fittings, the current f&k while very strong, just don’t have much appeal to me. I have liked other plain looking fittings such as those on the KC katana but these are less appealing to me personally, purely aesthetics.
The rough edges on the tsuba are a big problem and I think they could possibly be polished at least enough to take the cut off of them. I can only really speak for this particular tsuba and I’m not positive the others have the same issue but it would be something to look out for.
I would like to see some more wood on the ha side of the koiguchi, it makes me a little nervous being as thin as it is. After drawing the blade many times, I might feel unsafe without it, but I will try to add some myself.
The wax in the saya is a little annoying but does actually come in handy when cutting water bottles since the water just rolls right off the waxy parts of the blade. For the low price of these swords, there really isn't much else to pick on here.
Pros
Strong and powerful blade
Attractive horn fittings
Affordable price
No cracks in the tsuka core
Cons
Poor tsuka shape/maki
Sharp edges on tsuba design
Thin lacquer on saya
Plain fittings
Conclusion
For the price, including free shipping in the states, it's hard to beat the RDP for an everyday beater sword and heavy cutter provided your tsukamaki holds up. I don't find it strong on looks or features but I had no complaints on the performance so I feel it is a good no nonsense workhorse as was the intention in it's design. I think there are other swords in it's price range or under that offer more in some areas, but it is definitely in the top 5 katana under $300 imho.
For those looking for a heavy and strong through-hardened katana and are not fussy about aesthetics or if you like this look, this sword should be a strong consideration.
Some more pics
Thanks for reading
-Josh
A review by
Josh Marlan
NC, USA
3/4/2014
Today I will be reviewing a Ronin Dojo Pro katana(no-hi). I recently bought this katana brand new from a fellow member via his ad in the classifieds.
Introduction
To be honest, this sword really needs no introduction as it has become a forum favorite since it's introduction in the SBG Store years ago. It is a hearty katana in the Dotanuki blade style and is made from 1060 through-hardened steel.
I am here now to give my honest opinion of the sword and nothing else. You can take what I have to say in any way you choose but I only mean it one way, I am reviewing another katana, as I see it, and sharing only my personal and honest opinions. Basically, take it or leave it.
Historical Background
Many of you are already familiar with the namesake of this blade style but just to add some more info I will simply link to wikipedia. Of course to elaborate on the basic and sometimes inaccurate info this site provides, you should do your own research through other sources as well.
I did find this picture comparing an example of a Dotanuki blade with an average sized shinogi-zukuri blade.
Full Disclosure
I do not work for nor have any association with the Ronin Katana company and I am not being compensated in any way for doing this review. While I didn't pay full price from the Ronin Katana website or from the SBG Store, I did pay the asking price from the seller and it is my sword. Furthermore, I have no axe to grind, nor any grudge or agenda, I am simply reviewing this sword because it's the first time I've had the opportunity to do so. For anyone that might see it another way, frankly that's their problem not mine.
Specifications
Steel type: 1060
Sugata: Shinogi-zukuri
Tempering: Through-hardened
Hamon: None
Polish: Basic
Boshi: None
Nagasa: 27 1/4"
Motohaba: 32 mm
Sakihaba: 23.5 mm
Motokasane: 7.9 mm
Sakikasane: 5 mm
Weight w/saya: 3.01 Lbs
Weight w/out saya: 2.48 Lbs
Weight blade alone: 1.79 Lbs/ 812 gr
POB: 4 1/2"
Kissaki: O-kissaki/57mm
Sori: Tori, 3/4"
Tsuka: 11 1/4"
Tsuka-Ito: Synthetic silk
Initial Impression
When I first unpacked this sword I immediately thought it felt very heavy. It is true that it is on the heavy side for it's length but then again I had just been handling a much lighter bo-hi katana as well as a lighter no-hi katana and it felt that much heavier by comparison. Otherwise I was not surprised by much else since I've seen dozens of these swords on the forums as well as having worked on many of the RDP tsuka. It was what I was expecting.
This katana was in good condition as was described in the ad and everything seemed in order after a quick inspection.
Tsuka
Omote
I don't mean to start out on a sour note but this is usually the first part of the katana I begin with and in this case, it's the weakest aspect of the RDP.
The tsuka is quite thick and rounded and for me, a bit uncomfortable.
It certainly is not the largest tsuka out there as far as girth and compared to some manufacturers, it can be considered to be on the thin side. It is obvious that Ronin has tried to give this tsuka more of a shape than some others but it doesn't really fall into any one standard tsuka shape classification. It is closest to a rikko(hourglass) shape but I feel that instead of terminating at the widest part near the kashira as it should, it goes from wide(at the fuchi) to narrow(in the center) to wide(after the center) back to narrow again to finish off at the kashira.
The lines I added in this picture are exaggerated but illustrate what I am trying to describe
Ura
The end knots are on the wrong sides, as are many production tsuka in this class.
The ito overlaps the rim of the kashira which indicates that the length of the core is not correct for the width of the ito used and leaves the tsukamaki-shi with a half width space at the end of the wrap. This is also unfortunately a fairly common issue with many production tsuka.
Omote
Ura
The ito does alternate properly down the length.
There are no hishigami used so this results in uneven diamonds. The combination of the slippery synthetic silk ito, lack of hishigami, and loose tsukamki can lead to the wrap becoming loose very quickly which is one of the few complaints reported by RDP owners.
This ito was very easy to move with just a little pressure as are the menuki.
The end knots were also very easy to move and after only a few pushes with my thumb, the finishing knot was almost undone which would lead to the ito unraveling. While working on these tsuka before, I noticed that the tsukamaki is finished in a strange way. Instead of the two strands passing through the kashira ana, one goes through while the other goes underneath the kashira.
The ito doesn't slide up and down the sides of the tsuka however because there is a heavy layer of very sticky glue applied.
The samegawa is decent quality panels with small sized nodes that have been polished enough so the surface isn't so rough which is good for the longevity of the ito.
The mekugi are healthy and hard enough so they don't easily dent when removing and inserting them through the mekugi-ana.
The tsuka core was in good shape and had no cracks or other defects I could notice except that the grain pattern on the omote side is going in the wrong direction for optimal strength. One thing I was really glad to see was that the seam in the core was not in the center but rather to one side the way it should be but almost never is on production tsuka.
Menuki
I think these are some type of stylized dragon made of solid brass. They are not a matched set, meaning they are the same piece on both sides of the tsuka.
Fuchi and Kashira
This set is plain and simple but very strong and made of steel. They are both painted black.
The kashira has fitted blackened brass shitodome.
Seppa
The seppa are an average but strong stamped brass set with a coin edge. The fit is a little loose from front to back but are tight side to side.
They are the same size
Habaki
The habaki on the Ronin Dojo Pro is cast brass but strong and has two grooves carved across the sides and a vertical file pattern on the lower half which is a step up from the boring polished look.
There is no machigane per say but there is a little indentation where the ha-machi sits.
Tsuba
The blackened steel tsuba on this model is in the design of a lotus flower and has been cut by cnc or similar process. While it is a fairly attractive sukashi design, the edges are extremely sharp and uncomfortable if it rubs against your skin. While I was cutting with this sword I actually caught my thumbnail on the sharp edge during a swing and it tore my nail about 1/4"
That's the first time that has happened to me.
Some shots of the tsuba, seppa, and habaki together.
You can see there are some small gaps between the habaki and blade
Saya
The saya is in a standard gloss black lacquer finish. The koiguchi, kurikata, and kojiri are stated to be of buffalo horn. I wasn't sure if it was buffalo horn since I'd never seen any of this color and transparency before, so to check, I filed and sanded the surface but there wasn't the typical smell of burning hair I usually smell when working with natural horn. I also tried lighting the shavings but still no usual horn smell. Since I don't want to damage the pieces on this sword I will leave it alone for now and I'll assume they are real horn. Maybe they are not from the usual Indonesian Water Buffalo but instead some other horned animal with a more translucent horn. Either way, these fittings are attractive and strong and make this otherwise plain looking saya stand out from the others. The saya is complimented by a typical synthetic silk black and white sageo.
The koiguchi fit is nice and tight on the habaki but opens quickly with a little pressure from a thumb against the tsuba rim. It stays put even when holding and shaking the sword upside down. There is an obvious rattle of the blade inside when shaken. There is also a large amount of wax that gets deposited on the blade every time it is sheathed, this however wipes off pretty easily with glass cleaner.
The wood at the ha side is missing at the koiguchi
The black lacquer is a little thin on the sides of the kurikata and you can see the wood underneath
Blade
The blade on this sword is definitely not for those who are looking for fancy and nimble. This is a thick and heavy blade meant to take on heavy targets. The shinogi ji is in near mirror polish while the ji is closer to a satin finish but is still reflective.
Since it is through-hardened there is no intentional hamon to speak of but yet there is one of the almost legendary "ghost hamon" present on portions of the blade.
(the marks are wax from the saya)
The blade is even along the length without any waves or bumps.
The kissaki is very large at 2 1/4" but does not have a geometric yokote.
It is cross polished to distinguish it from the rest of the blade
The fukura is shaped well but the koshinogi could be more carefully polished imho. This is purely an aesthetic issue and has no effect on the performance whatsoever.
There is an uneven rougher polish on the top of the kissaki which I'm unsure is intentional or not. The iori mune runs dead center down to the very tip.
The nakago is very thick as is the blade. It has some slight burring on the edge of the two mekugi-ana.
The ha and mune-machi are uneven but cut cleanly.
Here you can see the kengyo nakagojiri and the mei.
There is really no niku but the blade is over a 1/4" thick anyway so I'm not so sure it's even necessary for a heavy blade like this. There does seem to be a bit of a bevel at the very edge or steep ha niku present.
Fit and Finish
I have to say that while the fit is good and tight all around, the finish is somewhat lacking. I don't personally see this sword as one for display really so I'm not overly concerned with the aesthetics as much as with the function. The fittings were all tight upon first inspection and stayed that way after dis-assembly and reassembly and then still after heavy cutting. The loose ito could be a major problem however for anyone who isn't willing or able to re-wrap the tsuka.
I have personally wrapped over half a dozen RDP tsuka and am about to wrap two more not including this one. If not for the poorly done tsukamaki, I feel this sword would hold up well for a long time of regular use. I understand this is not the case on every RDP sold, I am just stating what I found on this sword and the others I'm aware of. If your tsuka has the same issues, you can contact the seller you bought it from for an exchange.
Handling
The RDP katana is on the heavy side and the handling is comparable to the Hanwei Wind and Thunder imho (as there happens to be one here at the time). I personally prefer a lighter more agile sword but for those who like to feel the power in the swing, this should be just right for you. While heavy, the balance is pretty decent and the 4 1/2" POB helps.
I found the tsuka a little uncomfortable after about a half hour of cutting but this will be personal preference I think since some like a thicker tsuka. I felt confident that the strong blade would cut my chosen targets easily and it did, sometimes I didn't even feel any resistance in the cut. I am not really in practice or very skilled with a katana but I would personally prefer a lighter, more agile sword for trick cutting unless you have more wrist and forearm strength.
Overall I think it handled pretty well despite it's weight. I haven't cut them but I think this sword would go through tatami all day with little issue as it was intended.
Cutting
I cut water bottles, pool noodles, and Kudzu vines with this sword and had no trouble with any of these targets.
I did rip my thumbnail when it caught on the sharp edges of the tsuba design which I mentioned above.
Here is a video clip covering most of my session
Picking Nits
I guess I can go more the tsuka here but I think I covered it well enough above. I will say here that I don’t like that it is advertised as having silk ito. This can obviously be misleading and should be changed imho.
I’m also not too sure how closely this blade represents those made by the Dotanuki school, though I would have to do more research to really compare. It is a wide and thick blade but other than that, I don’t see too many similarities with any historical examples I've seen. I would like to see some different fittings, the current f&k while very strong, just don’t have much appeal to me. I have liked other plain looking fittings such as those on the KC katana but these are less appealing to me personally, purely aesthetics.
The rough edges on the tsuba are a big problem and I think they could possibly be polished at least enough to take the cut off of them. I can only really speak for this particular tsuba and I’m not positive the others have the same issue but it would be something to look out for.
I would like to see some more wood on the ha side of the koiguchi, it makes me a little nervous being as thin as it is. After drawing the blade many times, I might feel unsafe without it, but I will try to add some myself.
The wax in the saya is a little annoying but does actually come in handy when cutting water bottles since the water just rolls right off the waxy parts of the blade. For the low price of these swords, there really isn't much else to pick on here.
Pros
Strong and powerful blade
Attractive horn fittings
Affordable price
No cracks in the tsuka core
Cons
Poor tsuka shape/maki
Sharp edges on tsuba design
Thin lacquer on saya
Plain fittings
Conclusion
For the price, including free shipping in the states, it's hard to beat the RDP for an everyday beater sword and heavy cutter provided your tsukamaki holds up. I don't find it strong on looks or features but I had no complaints on the performance so I feel it is a good no nonsense workhorse as was the intention in it's design. I think there are other swords in it's price range or under that offer more in some areas, but it is definitely in the top 5 katana under $300 imho.
For those looking for a heavy and strong through-hardened katana and are not fussy about aesthetics or if you like this look, this sword should be a strong consideration.
Some more pics
Thanks for reading
-Josh