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Post by Deleted on Apr 17, 2008 16:33:40 GMT
Drop the fuller on the blade mate, I don't think it will do what you want it to do and it detracts from the look. Even with the swirls that blade is still functional. Drop the top swirl back down the sword a bit so it doesn't interfere with the sweet spot of the blade. The other thing, you should curl the handle over a little bit as it will aid in your ability to cut. With chinese sabres they curve the handle because when you cut with them you hold the straight part of the handle as you start the cut but you flick the your hand down so the weight of the blow is in the lower part of the hilt as you finish the cut, that gives you the ability to "flick" the heavier sabre blade. I would make it a reasonably thin blade with a weight forward cutting spot. I hope all that made sense mate, if not I can try and clarify. ~Edit~ I hate when that happens, you already knew what I was going to say before I said it, make sure you move the top swirl down the blade. I am very interested to see how this one turns out Bren As to how hot brass needs to be, fairly hot I would imagine as they make artillery shell casings out of brass and those guns really heat the shells. Love the idea of what you are going to do with the cross piece to One day you need to try a basket hilted sword.
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Apr 17, 2008 16:56:06 GMT
DdS - I'd like to go some time in the future maybe. Won't be til at least 2010. My sister is obsessed with going over, and she's done a ton of research too. This scimitar will only be a single, but with a 120mm grip (+pommel) I'll be able to use it 2 handed. I want it to stay light and flickable.
BW - Of course it will be mega functional. It will be a devastating slasher!! Re the handle, it is curled over (lines in brown will be the grip shape) - not sure what you mean to change? Re. the fuller - That will be at the end, it would just be aesthetic as I don't think it would effect weight much. We'll see if I feel it needs it. I'd rather etch some vines on it anyway. Re. the peak - do you mean to move it down toward the tip, or the cross? As it is it add to weight over the sweet spot. I find the sweet spot is usually 60-65% down the blade away from the cross; this peak is just further toward the peak past this. The sweet spot should be where it touches the bottom of the flatbar.
Re. Thickness - It will have dispal taper to reduce weight past the COP, but will keep a 6mm spine to add strength through the narrower sections. The line through the middle at the tip is to denote a double edged tip.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 17, 2008 17:26:27 GMT
Bren: Ignore the comment about the handle I was typing as you posted the picture as you will note by the time stamp. Ignore the comment about the spike to, the one you have on the steel looks different to the other picture you posted. You should pull the weight back towards the cross just a bit so that you can do some fine point control. The thickness sounds great, make sure you put something really grippy on the handle or this one will get away from you.
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Post by dand on Apr 17, 2008 17:55:10 GMT
Brenno: as far as brass....you don't need to work it hot in order to bend it.....simply anneal it first. The great thing about annealing brass compared to steel is that there's no having to let it cool slowly in ashes after you heat it up.....instead you can just heat it to red and quench it (or let it cool slowly if you want....it does the same thing). Depending on how much bending you're doing, you might want to repeat the process a couple times if the brass seems to be work-hardening too much. hope this helps, Dan
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Apr 18, 2008 7:18:37 GMT
Thanks Dan.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 23, 2008 18:04:02 GMT
Think you'd be able to make something like this: ;D Or something similar?
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Apr 25, 2008 5:01:38 GMT
Hey Lemon. I cant see the picture anymore. I saw it yesterday, and from memory it was something I could sculpt to a fair degree. The only restriction being that my stock is 70mm wide.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 25, 2008 21:33:47 GMT
Hey Lemon. I cant see the picture anymore. I saw it yesterday, and from memory it was something I could sculpt to a fair degree. Okay, I can see it now, so it's probably back again The only restriction being that my stock is 70mm wide. Now THAT is bad. Shh... ame!
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Post by Deleted on May 1, 2008 14:18:56 GMT
how do i add a picture? im new here
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on May 1, 2008 14:41:32 GMT
Please do, I'd love to see some new ideas. Just type : [*img] insert the URL of the pic in here [/img] - to be able to make it readable I had to add the asterisk. Don't include the asterisk. Remember to include the slash in the second one. If you need to learn about image hosting, just get a free account at www.photobucket.com or imageshack.usThen you can upload your photo, and link to it here. You can even cut & paste the forum link which will save you typing the s
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Post by Deleted on May 2, 2008 14:09:01 GMT
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Post by Deleted on May 2, 2008 14:13:12 GMT
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on May 4, 2008 2:11:46 GMT
Yeah Tarols, that does look original. You should start your own design thread and just post a whole stack of them.
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Post by Deleted on May 5, 2008 16:33:02 GMT
thanx dude ;D always nice to hear a good reply
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on May 5, 2008 17:58:38 GMT
Oh yeah no worries, I love seeing new designs.
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