Bayonet

Do you have a camara in a cellphone? That works too.

The 16" blade, 12" fuller and a serial number make me think it is likely an early U.S. M1905. I've never read of one marked ARTILLERY before but there were some variations and even naval use, which might account for that. Does it look a bit like the top one in this photo?

Those are all later WWII MI Garand variants but here is a quite old one with it's wood grips, which were no longer used in the later ones. Serial number on this one is 55xxx



These were originally designed for the M1903 rifle and adapted for use on the M1917 and M1 Garand rifles. The loop is the muzzle ring, which fits over the barrel.

Of course, if your's doesn't look like these, it is not an M1905 ;D

Cheers

Hotspur; lots of info out there if it is an M1905

Spanish Mauser bayonet. I have no idea if they were still in use in the thrities and forties but the pattern goes back to the 7mm 1895 Mausers. Here's a page.
arms2armor.com/Bayonets/span1913.htm

It not looking like an M1905 made it something else ;D

Cheers

Hotspur; there are a lot of Mauser bayonet variations but this seems a good match for that one

I use a product named Liquid Wrench applied to a soft cloth as a first step for red rust. WD-40 will work to a lessr extent. What you don't want to do is add scratches. The penetrating oil will soften loose rust and let you gently scrub a lot away. Some like brass brushes. You can find them in some hardware and auto supply stores/sections. In the kitchen section of many supermarkets, you will find plastic pot scrubbers. They look a bit like a ball of coarse steel wool but are plastic (usually yellow). Regular and electric toohbrushes (I use an oscillating Braun) can come in handy. Very fine steel wool as the most abrasive thing one might consider.

I don't really follow the bayonet market but I have to imagine they are not rare. VAlue would drop if you scratched the beejezus out of it or even sharpened it.

It is really a subjective call how far to go in cleaning antiques. Red rust removal is never bad but the dark stain remaining might mean going too far to remove. Dark pitting and corrosion is best left alone after surface cleaning. Some do go so far as taking grips off to clean underneath. The scabbard is a nice plus but don't go crazy with putting stuff on it that will soften it a lot. Definitely not mink oil or neatsfoot oil. Saddlery products, harness dressings, stuff like that would be fine.

One fellow uses nothing but paste wax to both clean and preserve antiques.

Enjoy, that is the biggest part.

Cheers

Hotspur; having gone too far more than once, I try to take it slow and easy

Could I use a rust eraser? Or do those tend to damage the steel?

Doesn't seem to be worth much. I found one going for $40 on ebay. I guess that means I don't have to use a cloth every time I touch it. Still I'm gonna assume I shouldn't treat the same way as I would a $40 contemporary piece (sharpening it and using it to hack at milk jugs). The thing could be nearly 100 years old.