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Post by justin520 on Aug 15, 2013 2:36:11 GMT
I could imagine it feeling a lot like getting hit in the gut with a bat.
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Post by Onimusha on Aug 15, 2013 2:41:31 GMT
I'll put it this way. I know a Guy who was hit by a dragunov in Iraq. He said, "there was a period of time when my feet and head were level with each other, and they were not on the ground." It caused enough injury to get him sent back over here.
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Post by Jussi Ekholm on Aug 15, 2013 9:58:38 GMT
I have no idea about the thickness of either quality of Fenglinhanjia armor. I did ask about their armor maybe 2 or 3 years ago, but as it was only wearable for maximum height of 170cm if I recall correctly and the custom armor for my height would cost so much extra (I can't remember the actual amount), so I decided when I someday buy an armor which I can wear I will buy from Marutake Sangyo. But I believe Fenglinhanjia Ashigaru class will be quite rough. Theater, movie & re-enacting use sounds to me like they look like real armors, but many shortcuts are taken. Might be pretty thin too. If you are crafty with your hands Sengokudaimyo is a great resource. I've been thinking for a long time I should try making a kabuto with the help of their instructions, but I suck at crafts... If you intend to shop for truly cheap armor, most of the very cheap armor sellers have stolen their pics from Marutake Sangyo, and some have stolen Fenglinhanjia pics. So I would advice staying away from the very cheap offering coming from China. I tried to get myself a very cheap armor from China, but I decided it's too risky and there is a big chance that I would just be throwing away my money. For some overall inspiration you might enjoy reading this: www.myarmoury.com/feature_jpn_armour.html
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Post by Bluntsword on Aug 16, 2013 0:37:11 GMT
Um...how actually thick does the armor have to be? What thickness were the original yoroi?
My friend is a panel beater, and he might help me make one. Just the front and back pieces only.
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Post by Onimusha on Aug 16, 2013 2:53:05 GMT
Most Japanese armors didn't have a front and back part. The dou was usually one piece. some opened on one side. Some had openings in the front or back.
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Post by Timo Nieminen on Aug 16, 2013 4:50:23 GMT
For lamellar armours, rawhide lamellae (kozane) are typically about 3mm thick (sometimes two layers of rawhide were used in each kozane if the hide was not thick enough). Metal kozane were 1-1.5mm thick, and good ones were composite, with a hardened steel outer face and an iron inner face (1/3 steel, 2/3 iron). Overlap means every attack sees a double-thickness (or quadruple).
Lames for laminar breastplates seem to have been about 2mm thick, steel-faced.
Late bulletproof (or bullet-resistant) one-piece breastplates were 3-3.5mm thick.
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Post by american samurai on Nov 1, 2013 1:20:06 GMT
The majority of conventional samurai armors that you see have both a front and a back, they were usually connected to each other by a hinge on the side (ni-mai dou), when being stored the hinge pin was removed allowing the two halves to fit into an armor storage box easier, some were completely separate halves with no hinge with both sides being tied together, you will see some that were all in one piece (maru dou) but were mostly older armors and not commonly found in our time, many were actually cut into halves at a later date and a hinge was installed making the armor easier to transport. Tatami armors were often made in one piece as they could be folded up and transported or stored easy and did not need to be made in two halves. Iron and leather hon kozane ni-mai dou, shown with the hinge removed.
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