Review: Raven Armoury Bastard Sword
Jun 19, 2013 5:08:58 GMT
Post by stickem on Jun 19, 2013 5:08:58 GMT
Raven Armoury Bastard Sword
Introduction
Hi all! After years of playing with swords of Asian origin, it seemed time to finally get a taste of a European flavor. I did some foil fencing in college, but this is about the extent of my experience handling European blades. A foil is like fighting with a car antenna compared to this beast, but it did learn me the value of having a sword you can thrust with.
I have experience handling one-handed swords, but have been playing a bit with two-handers over the past year. Hence, I looked for a sword which hopefully would lend itself to either… that, and everyone who grew up playing D&D had a bastard sword in their hand(s) :lol:
I was attracted to Raven Armoury (RA) from their cool name and drooling over their Stormbringer and scimitar customs. However, like many folks the wait time seemed a bit long and the hit to the wallet a bit strong to handle without selling an organ and/or being a geezer by the time a custom arrived. So the solution was to find one being offered 2nd hand. Since there don’t seem to be any formal RA reviews on SBG, thought I’d share the luck with y’all…
Historical Overview
This bastard sword is an Oakeshott Type XVIIIa. As you read this review, keep in mind I am a novice in the area of European blades, and am bound to make mistakes as a result. Here’s more on type XVIIIa:
Oakeshott Type XVIII
More specifically, it is based on an Edward III sword, more on which you can find here:
Sword of Edward III
While I am not much of a historian regarding the English monarchy, I do remember Edward III started the Hundred Years War by invading France back in the day. The original Edward III is circa 1350, while the RA version is from this century
Full Disclosure
This blade was made by Simon Fearnhamm at RA. Simon’s swords can be found here:
Raven Armoury
Seemed like a good idea to have an English sword made by a talented British smith
The parts were made by Bruce Brookhart, from whom I purchased the sword. More of Bruce’s work can be found here:
Brookhart Designs
Bruce studied with Hank Reinhardt and Ewart Oakeshott, and as a result, has a considerable knowledge of European swords and has written a book on training with these weapons.
I have no prior relationship with either of these persons. Neither of them knew I planned to review this sword at the time it was purchased.
Initial Impressions
When I unpacked and handled this sword, the first thought was how big it seems. Keep in mind previously I had not handled many European war swords. My experience with two-handed swords has been mainly limited to katana, with primary experience training with Filipino and Chinese one-handers. It should not be surprising a 3# sword seemed heavy. Definitely feels like you could go up against a fully-armored opponent with this sword. Not that there are many of those around, but still, nice to know if someone pulls a Bruce Campbell Army of Darkness time travel to the 1300s on you :lol:
The thing which seemed most different from those other swords is the pommel being large and heavy to counterbalance the weight of the blade. Methinks I am just not used to having a significant hunk of metal behind my grip. One definitely could crack a rhino’s skull with it!
As the sky was threatening rain, I decided to take some pics for this review rather than taking more than just a few swings in the back yard. I am some stoopid, but I know when to bring shiny objects inside.
Specs
Blade Length: 33 ½“
Blade Width: 2”
Handle Length: 6”
Overall Length: 42 ½“
Guard Width: 9 3/8”
Weight: 3lbs 2 oz
Components
The Blade
The blade has a sharpened edge on both sides to allow cutting in either direction. There is a pronounced central ridge due to its being hollow ground by hand. It tapers gently from the 2” base to the acute tip, a shape which also readily facilitates thrusting motions. It is a high-carbon spring steel.
The Handle
The handle is hardwood covered with black glove leather. At 6” in length, I can grab the grip with one hand, or with two hands partially covering the bottom of the pommel; hence, the term "bastard sword."
The Guard
The waisted cross guard curves slightly towards the blade and the quillions have a diamond-shaped cross section. The guard is cast from old Del Tin swords, which I believe is German Krupp CK 55 steel.
The Pommel
The pommel is a scent-stopper shape (Type T). It is 2 ½” in length and is made of the same old Del Tin steel as the guard. There are indentations on the end of it, which look like they may have come from hammering it to the handle. Lends character, in my opinion.
The Scabbard
The scabbard is black leather. I do not know if it was made specifically for this sword, but it fits well. Probably needs a wooden one for storage purposes...
Handling Characteristics
Even though this sword feels a bit heavy to me, I imagine 3#s is lighter and the blade shorter than many swords of this type. So it is probably an agile sword for a bastard, though I have limited experience to compare.
Test Cutting
Obviously, there has not been time to cut with this sword yet. Some green bamboo may be in its future when I get a better feel for its handling. Like all swords we lay a lot of coin on, it is difficult to commit to cutting hard targets with it for the possibility of a misaligned cut damaging it.
Conclusions
Overall I am very pleased with this sword. The blade is obviously well made and the parts cleanly cast of solid steel. It screams functional while being elegant and refined at the same time. You could take it to a zombie apocalypse or be a guest at court with this one. I look forward to playing with it and getting the hang of Euros. I also foresee a custom scabbard in its future…
Bruce was willing to answer the many questions I had and he is a knowledgeable fellow who does good work in a variety of media. I would certainly do business with him again.
Pros
- beautiful hand-ground blade
- definitely a functional sword or “battle-ready” as the marketing people like to say
- no fuller (which I am happy for) while still being light enough to use one-handed
- clean lines with few blow holes on the cast fittings and a skull cracker of a pommel
Cons
- There is a small bit of discoloration on the blade, which did not come off after rubbing with isopropyl alcohol and a cotton T-shirt. It was redder in coloration when it was first unsheathed, so I think it may be the result of rust. This may have occurred during transport as it has been rainy and humid here for a few weeks. The leather scabbard may have wicked some moisture to the blade. I will try a bit of Mother’s Mag on it and hopefully it will disappear.
- There are some minor scratches on the cross-guard, which I also plan to polish out. There is a substance (presumably epoxy) visible where the guard meets the blade.
The Bottom Line
I feel fortunate to have scored a Raven Armory blade for much less than the cost of a new custom, and with no wait to boot. Lots of value to be found on the 2nd-hand market these days! Also, Bruce makes some sturdy and elegant fittings, so I do not feel the need to change them out for something else.
I definitely like the shape and feel of the sword, and certainly recommend you check out Bruce’s other offerings if you are interested in Medieval swords. I plan on reading his book (The Pattern) as a primer for learning how to move with this sword. For now, I plan on sleeping on the couch with it as my wife is out of town.
Your comments on any errors I made are welcome and I'll do my best to answer any questions, or there will no doubt be someone on the forum who can.
Thanks for reading!
And remember to stick'em with the pointy end...
Introduction
Hi all! After years of playing with swords of Asian origin, it seemed time to finally get a taste of a European flavor. I did some foil fencing in college, but this is about the extent of my experience handling European blades. A foil is like fighting with a car antenna compared to this beast, but it did learn me the value of having a sword you can thrust with.
I have experience handling one-handed swords, but have been playing a bit with two-handers over the past year. Hence, I looked for a sword which hopefully would lend itself to either… that, and everyone who grew up playing D&D had a bastard sword in their hand(s) :lol:
I was attracted to Raven Armoury (RA) from their cool name and drooling over their Stormbringer and scimitar customs. However, like many folks the wait time seemed a bit long and the hit to the wallet a bit strong to handle without selling an organ and/or being a geezer by the time a custom arrived. So the solution was to find one being offered 2nd hand. Since there don’t seem to be any formal RA reviews on SBG, thought I’d share the luck with y’all…
Historical Overview
This bastard sword is an Oakeshott Type XVIIIa. As you read this review, keep in mind I am a novice in the area of European blades, and am bound to make mistakes as a result. Here’s more on type XVIIIa:
Oakeshott Type XVIII
More specifically, it is based on an Edward III sword, more on which you can find here:
Sword of Edward III
While I am not much of a historian regarding the English monarchy, I do remember Edward III started the Hundred Years War by invading France back in the day. The original Edward III is circa 1350, while the RA version is from this century
Full Disclosure
This blade was made by Simon Fearnhamm at RA. Simon’s swords can be found here:
Raven Armoury
Seemed like a good idea to have an English sword made by a talented British smith
The parts were made by Bruce Brookhart, from whom I purchased the sword. More of Bruce’s work can be found here:
Brookhart Designs
Bruce studied with Hank Reinhardt and Ewart Oakeshott, and as a result, has a considerable knowledge of European swords and has written a book on training with these weapons.
I have no prior relationship with either of these persons. Neither of them knew I planned to review this sword at the time it was purchased.
Initial Impressions
When I unpacked and handled this sword, the first thought was how big it seems. Keep in mind previously I had not handled many European war swords. My experience with two-handed swords has been mainly limited to katana, with primary experience training with Filipino and Chinese one-handers. It should not be surprising a 3# sword seemed heavy. Definitely feels like you could go up against a fully-armored opponent with this sword. Not that there are many of those around, but still, nice to know if someone pulls a Bruce Campbell Army of Darkness time travel to the 1300s on you :lol:
The thing which seemed most different from those other swords is the pommel being large and heavy to counterbalance the weight of the blade. Methinks I am just not used to having a significant hunk of metal behind my grip. One definitely could crack a rhino’s skull with it!
As the sky was threatening rain, I decided to take some pics for this review rather than taking more than just a few swings in the back yard. I am some stoopid, but I know when to bring shiny objects inside.
Specs
Blade Length: 33 ½“
Blade Width: 2”
Handle Length: 6”
Overall Length: 42 ½“
Guard Width: 9 3/8”
Weight: 3lbs 2 oz
Components
The Blade
The blade has a sharpened edge on both sides to allow cutting in either direction. There is a pronounced central ridge due to its being hollow ground by hand. It tapers gently from the 2” base to the acute tip, a shape which also readily facilitates thrusting motions. It is a high-carbon spring steel.
The Handle
The handle is hardwood covered with black glove leather. At 6” in length, I can grab the grip with one hand, or with two hands partially covering the bottom of the pommel; hence, the term "bastard sword."
The Guard
The waisted cross guard curves slightly towards the blade and the quillions have a diamond-shaped cross section. The guard is cast from old Del Tin swords, which I believe is German Krupp CK 55 steel.
The Pommel
The pommel is a scent-stopper shape (Type T). It is 2 ½” in length and is made of the same old Del Tin steel as the guard. There are indentations on the end of it, which look like they may have come from hammering it to the handle. Lends character, in my opinion.
The Scabbard
The scabbard is black leather. I do not know if it was made specifically for this sword, but it fits well. Probably needs a wooden one for storage purposes...
Handling Characteristics
Even though this sword feels a bit heavy to me, I imagine 3#s is lighter and the blade shorter than many swords of this type. So it is probably an agile sword for a bastard, though I have limited experience to compare.
Test Cutting
Obviously, there has not been time to cut with this sword yet. Some green bamboo may be in its future when I get a better feel for its handling. Like all swords we lay a lot of coin on, it is difficult to commit to cutting hard targets with it for the possibility of a misaligned cut damaging it.
Conclusions
Overall I am very pleased with this sword. The blade is obviously well made and the parts cleanly cast of solid steel. It screams functional while being elegant and refined at the same time. You could take it to a zombie apocalypse or be a guest at court with this one. I look forward to playing with it and getting the hang of Euros. I also foresee a custom scabbard in its future…
Bruce was willing to answer the many questions I had and he is a knowledgeable fellow who does good work in a variety of media. I would certainly do business with him again.
Pros
- beautiful hand-ground blade
- definitely a functional sword or “battle-ready” as the marketing people like to say
- no fuller (which I am happy for) while still being light enough to use one-handed
- clean lines with few blow holes on the cast fittings and a skull cracker of a pommel
Cons
- There is a small bit of discoloration on the blade, which did not come off after rubbing with isopropyl alcohol and a cotton T-shirt. It was redder in coloration when it was first unsheathed, so I think it may be the result of rust. This may have occurred during transport as it has been rainy and humid here for a few weeks. The leather scabbard may have wicked some moisture to the blade. I will try a bit of Mother’s Mag on it and hopefully it will disappear.
- There are some minor scratches on the cross-guard, which I also plan to polish out. There is a substance (presumably epoxy) visible where the guard meets the blade.
The Bottom Line
I feel fortunate to have scored a Raven Armory blade for much less than the cost of a new custom, and with no wait to boot. Lots of value to be found on the 2nd-hand market these days! Also, Bruce makes some sturdy and elegant fittings, so I do not feel the need to change them out for something else.
I definitely like the shape and feel of the sword, and certainly recommend you check out Bruce’s other offerings if you are interested in Medieval swords. I plan on reading his book (The Pattern) as a primer for learning how to move with this sword. For now, I plan on sleeping on the couch with it as my wife is out of town.
Your comments on any errors I made are welcome and I'll do my best to answer any questions, or there will no doubt be someone on the forum who can.
Thanks for reading!
And remember to stick'em with the pointy end...