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Post by Caboose on Jun 9, 2013 3:28:44 GMT
I just purchased my first sword, and I know you have to oil it. However, I'm not entirely sure what type of oil to use. I figure it would have to be a mineral oil, but what works best? I would really prefer something I can get at Walmart or something, I don't want to have to go to a specialty store or order it online. Any product names or brands would be much appreciated.
Also, is it necessary to use anything on the pommel/leather grip?
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Post by frankthebunny on Jun 9, 2013 3:49:15 GMT
light mineral oil. You can usually pick this up at most pharmacies for under $8
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Post by Caboose on Jun 9, 2013 3:54:40 GMT
Is there a specific type or brand that works best?
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Post by frankthebunny on Jun 9, 2013 3:58:15 GMT
Light mineral oil is usually used for the skin instead of a laxative like regular mineral oil. here is one from CVS *for $4 you will never have to buy another bottle unless you are oiling 100 swords every week
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Post by jlwilliams on Jun 9, 2013 11:42:01 GMT
Good old light mineral oil is sold under a number of guises. It's all the same stuff, more or less (some versions add scent), except for the labeling and pricing. Baby oil is light mineral oil with a pleasant scent added. Butcher block oil is light mineral oil with a warning label telling you not to use anything other than their product on your butcher block counter surface. Honing oil for culinary knives is also light mineral oil in a metal bottle with a flip up dropper top and warnings printed on the bottle. All of these are up priced versions of the same stuff, and there are more examples that I missed mentioning. Good old mineral oil. You can buy light or heavy mineral oil from the drug store. One brand is as good as the next, with the store brand getting the nod for cheapest price.
If you carry a folding knife and sometimes use it to cut a piece of food, you may want to consider lubricating your knife's action with a drop of heavy mineral oil. Any knife that may touch food should only be oiled with mineral oil, so it's just convenient and economical to oil all knives with it. The reasoning is that mineral oil isn't toxic like a petrolium oil and it doesn't go rancid like a vegitable or animal oil. Light mineral oil is best for wiping onto blades, honing and so on; but heavy is better for lubricating. It just stays put a little better.
For a sword that is going to be left hanging on a wall for decades at a time (my grandfather's Army saber comes to mind. I've offered to clean and oil it, but he seems to want to leave it untouched) don't overlook Turtle Wax. Oiling and cleaning regularly is best, but in a few years if you notice that you've fallen out of love with messing with the thing, clean it well and wax it up.
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Post by aussie-rabbit on Jun 9, 2013 15:05:29 GMT
For long term storage/display you can also use floor wax, remember linoleum flooring? or the newer floating "timber" flooring ? same thing, it's a paste wax you rub on, basically anything that inhibits air from the blade, oxygen+iron = rust.
Many of the display cabinets in museums are filled with nitrogen or other inert gasses to prevent oxidization.
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Post by StankotheGreat on Jun 9, 2013 23:22:35 GMT
If you can't get Hanwei Sword Oil, mineral oil works well.
Stay away from vegetable oils, they will go rancid.
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Taran
Member
Posts: 2,621
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Post by Taran on Jun 10, 2013 1:33:01 GMT
I tried remington gun oil for a few months. Went back to silicone cloths. Better protection that lasts longer and doesn't attract dust.
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Post by junon on Jun 10, 2013 2:25:25 GMT
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Paul
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Senior Forumite
Posts: 1,771
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Post by Paul on Jun 10, 2013 2:34:01 GMT
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Post by Ulrich on Jun 10, 2013 10:12:48 GMT
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Post by Grubnessul on Jun 12, 2013 13:49:29 GMT
My fencing instructor recommended sewing machine oil, which seems to work pretty well for me and is very cheap (€2 for a small flask).
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Jun 16, 2020 13:03:39 GMT
All of the above will work and not that critical as to type. Oil and inspect routinely. Ren Wax is frequently recommended. It is expensive and I used for awhile, until I found rust within the month after applying and found common car paste wax much cheaper and works. 3 in 1 oil also works. After a cutting session involving water I apply WD-40 after drying off and a day or so later apply wax or oil depending. WD-40 will not provide long term protection but is good for getting between the steel and water.
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