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Post by pokey on Apr 2, 2013 2:45:30 GMT
i see that everyone seems to use veg tanned leather for their sword handles... is this mainly so they can make the tooling marks in it? can you use 'regular' leather for sword handles, and it will just be smooth? or does it lack some other property that i have missed?
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Post by chrisperoni on Apr 2, 2013 2:48:38 GMT
finished leather can still be tooled but it doesn't respond as well to taking a mark, and wetting it can be harder- but it's been done Check the grip wrap thread: viewtopic.php?f=18&t=1295
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Post by pokey on Apr 2, 2013 12:43:07 GMT
ah cheers i bought some handbag/upholstery type leather to play with and was worried it would be unsuitable, but looks like its still usable. also got some veg tanned kangaroo tail leather which should be interesting...
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Post by pokey on Apr 4, 2013 14:51:28 GMT
thanks i think that cheap kangaroo leather might be the only good thing about living in australia (from a sword collecting point of view!). should be fun trying to do a wrap... this site has some fantastic wealth of information on it...
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Post by JW Peeters on Apr 4, 2013 21:22:23 GMT
Not to hijack the thread, but.. what about leather color? Are there colors -as could have been used historically, that just ask for trouble? I hear that white will get very messy, is this true? What other colors will get one grumpy in a major way rather quickly?
Regards, JW
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Post by Beowulf on Apr 5, 2013 5:19:26 GMT
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Post by MOK on Apr 7, 2013 14:37:32 GMT
The real reason to avoid chrome tanned leather is that it often contains trace chemicals that will corrode steel on contact.
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Post by JW Peeters on Apr 10, 2013 19:38:10 GMT
Pokey, I just wrapped a grip with chrome tanned leather. I can say that if you use thin leather 2 oz max, it stretches enough to be glued nice and comfy over the handle. I tried 3-4 oz (1,5mm) but that was already too thick and won't show risers enough.
What I also found out to my deep regret, is that the leather can not be dyed as it will not penetrate the top layer enough. Therefore it will leave stains on your hands etc. I admit however that I didn't use acetone first. When applying sealer with dampened applicator, I noticed the applicator took the dye color almost immediately. Leaving me to realize that the oil based dye (which is still alcohol based) reacts to water (or the acrelyc sealer) and will rub off -therefore also on my hand due to sweat etc- because it simply didn't penetrate the leather.
So be aware.
Regards, JW
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Post by pokey on Apr 14, 2013 15:17:50 GMT
thanks for all the help i have a couple of scraps of veg tanned kangaroo and some pre finished stuff to do some tests with...
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Post by zedwest on Aug 24, 2020 12:50:22 GMT
Unfortunately, I cannot answer for your question exactly, for me it is difficult, although I have been working with leather for 1 year already. I can only recommend a very useful blog about different types of leather, their properties and tools that are used with working with leather. This is leather-toolkits.com/reviews/best-leather-portfolios/. I think you will find the answer to your question there.
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Post by MOK on Aug 24, 2020 16:28:14 GMT
Unfortunately, I cannot answer for your question exactly, for me it is difficult, although I have been working with leather for 1 year already. I can only recommend a very useful blog about different types of leather, their properties and tools that are used with working with leather. This is leather-toolkits.com/reviews/best-leather-portfolios/. I think you will find the answer to your question there. Not only is this thread very old, your link seems to be an advertisement for leather portfolios instead of anything to do with leatherworking. Are you a spammer?
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