George
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Post by George on Mar 2, 2013 13:28:12 GMT
Ok so im 185 cm tall. Athletic build and strength. Arm reach from armpit to wrist is 22 inches. I want a good brand and am happy to spend about 300. Would be good to get one is Australia. Any tips/ideas would be appreciated
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Post by chrisperoni on Mar 2, 2013 16:31:02 GMT
www.huntersfriend.com/traditiona ... -guide.htm To measure your draw length, determine the length of your arm span in inches. Stand with your arms out and palms facing forward. Don't stretch when measuring. Just stand naturally. Have someone else help you, and measure from the tip of one middle finger to the other. Then divide that number by 2.5. The result is the correct draw length in inches for your body size. If you are a person of average proportions, your arm span will be roughly equal to your height in inches. So there is often a direct correlation between a person's height and their draw length as well. Once you have computed your draw length using the method above, you can double-check yourself by using the scale below to see if your number is within the expected range. LONG DRAW SHOOTERS: short DRAW SHOOTERS: --------------------- www.archerytalk.com/vb/Great forum -------------------- www.huntersfriend.com/carbon_arr ... pter_1.htm Officially - according to the standard AMO method - a bow's draw length setting can be found by measuring the distance between the groove of the nock - to a position 1 3/4" forward from the pivot point of the grip - when the bow is at full draw. Confused? Not to worry. There's a simplified method too. Conveniently enough, for most bows, 1 3/4" forward from the pivot point of the grip puts you roughly at the outer edge of the bow's riser. So without splitting too many hairs, we can say that a bow's draw length is approximately from the nock point to the front of the riser - when the bow is drawn back. So if you drew back a 29" arrow, and the insert of the arrow lined-up with the front edge of the bow's riser, the bow is set for approximately 29" draw length. Whew! Glad that's covered! -------------------- search.3riversarchery.com/nav/ca ... recurves/0 www.3riversarchery.com/Samick+Sa ... lekit.html -Samick Sage Takedown Recurve is often cited as an excellent cost/value bow. Comes decently equipped with some needed extras. -3 Rivers Archery is packed with tips, videos, help, products. No paypal though. -------------------- www.andoverarchery.com/-I love this shop. A family run 2nd generation archery store. Incredible customer service and great products. www.andoverarchery.com/Products/ ... g_bows.htm -all these hunting bows are just great stuff. Very good value to cost, lots of interchangeable options regarding risers and limbs, and their respective shapes and lengths (ie. different shapes/lengths for different specific shooting styles, preferred based on height, draw length, deflex vs. reflex, etc.). Beautiful single piece recurves. All come equipped with needed extras and I like how they include a bow stringer (shows respect for this being an important piece), bushing options etc. -I have ordered from Andover many times and have more on order right now. I talk them up a lot because I like them that much. -------------------- Don't know what is available in Aus.
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George
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Posts: 1,899
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Post by George on Mar 3, 2013 1:14:07 GMT
Wow thankyou so much! Just what i was after this is great.
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Post by chrisperoni on Mar 3, 2013 2:35:28 GMT
glad to help. I would suggest not going over 35# for your first bow. With more weight comes poorer form; better to learn on a lighter bow and once you have the correct form and so on, then increase your poundage. Also, a diy easy practice tool- bungee cords. Some places sell a large rubbber band for working your bow muscles- I just take a couple of bungee cords and hook them together then tape over the hooks for a little more comfort. Hold one side out in front like it's the riser, and draw the other side back like it's the string. Focus on keeping your riser hand rolled forward. If holding in your left hand your knuckles are rolled clockwise and your wrist is cocked out a bit. Sort of the opposite hand position as when you grip a katana and roll your wrist in to the inside of your body. You don't want to have your wrist cranked all the way out, but you don't want it pushing in towards the bow. Does that make sense? When drawing back the string/band (whatever) keep your riser hand, elbow, and each shoulder, elbow again- all in a line. Use your back muscles to pull the string, let your shoulders drop as you set the string back, keep your elbow slightly bent (riser hand elbow), draw the string right up to your face, let it push against your nose a touch even. Find a spot on your face where your hand rests and sets, memorize this place and always bring your hand back to the same place.
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George
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Post by George on Mar 3, 2013 4:05:33 GMT
Thanks alot mate, i can really picture that. That helps, ive found a local SAMICK Sage so ill pick one up and go from there Got a mate who already is into archery so ill be going with him anyway. Thanks alot for your tips and things, for someone not know anything, this really helps.
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Post by chrisperoni on Mar 3, 2013 4:50:04 GMT
I've been into bows since I was a kid- I tell ya if you haven't shot one it's damn addictive. I bet you have fired some arrows though as now you're buying your own gear Have a blast man and don't worry as much about accurate shooting- try for good tight groupings. Remember what Benjamin Martin teaches his kids in The Patriot; "aim small, miss small" I'm surprised the rest of the SBG achery gang hasn't chimed in yet. I bet when they notice this thread they'll jump onboard to welcome another of the converted- haahahahaaa!
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George
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Post by George on Mar 3, 2013 7:34:53 GMT
Yeh i don't know why but this thread wont come up for me in the 'view active topics' section i have to find it through my 'view your posts' Strange, anyway yeh i did archery for school. Want something more of a hobbie as i have so much open space where i live, cant afford a drit bike so this is the next best thing
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