|
Post by oos3thoo on Jan 28, 2008 23:37:40 GMT
I am thinking of purchasing one of these someday... Add a few medieval swords to my collection... What would you recommend? I want something super tough and dependable... But also sharp... Something that also looks pretty.
|
|
|
Post by randomnobody on Jan 28, 2008 23:47:51 GMT
Well, super tough and pretty, anything at all. Sharp? DSA doesn't do sharp. AoV sharpens them, though. I'm personally eying their Gothic two-hander, as well as the 14th Century two-hander. At one point I was eying up the Norman, as well, but then decided I was more inclined to two-handers. (obviously, eh? ) Their Squire, Knight, and Norman are excellent single-handers, though, and pretty much all their swords are as pretty as they are tough. Unfortunately, the only way you get them sharp is through AoV's sharpening service, which files on a secondary bevel; but they do a pretty good job at it so it doesn't make too much difference.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 29, 2008 0:09:37 GMT
ive heard nothing but good news from the Gothic 2 hander id personally go with that
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 29, 2008 0:28:44 GMT
My personal opinion is that I would never buy from darksword. I would most certainly go with Gen2 or Windlass. Why? In my opinion, Darkswords are stage steel swords. And there ain't a thing wrong with that. But I think they are advertising themselves as something they are not. Can they be sharpened? Yeah, even the hanwei practicals can be sharpened, as brenno had shown us. But the fact of the matter is the swords were build around the idea of blunt edges, without geometry or realism in mind.
If you want something sharp, go Gen2
Im gunna pull some heat for this one...
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 29, 2008 0:46:25 GMT
Not at all. I agree with you wholeheartedly. The only time I would consider a Darksword is if I needed a nice blunt for pell work or sparring.
They're just too heavy. It's unfortuanate, as they look very nice.
|
|
|
Post by Brian of DBK on Jan 29, 2008 1:13:02 GMT
I completely disagree, actually. You just have to be good at sharpening (no insult intended). Granted they are a bit heavier than historical based blades, they are still very functional. My personal collection of DSA blades cut & perform just the same as any other sub $300 sword.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 29, 2008 1:16:15 GMT
Although if you don't know how to sharpen I imagine that the DSA swords would be unforgiving for a beginner to try their hand at? I personally like what arms of valour have done with the gen 2's with custom wrap. Although if you are willing to pay to get it sharpened, I would reccomend the gothic with custom wrap and sharpening, that is just my opinion though.
|
|
|
Post by rammstein on Jan 29, 2008 1:28:18 GMT
I also agree with lukebailey and DI, however, just because they are UNDOUBTEDLY stage steel swords, they are obviously good performers when sharp as well. Maybe not as good as they should be, but they are still nonetheless fearsome. Says more about sub $300 sword than DSAs ;D It's not that they are heavier - it's that they've been designed to be used agianst each other and therfore blade harmonics and geometry have been completely torqued from a real blade to a practice one. Sure, something sharp can cut, but there is more physics onvlved than that. It is not possibly to have a perfect waster that is also a perfect performance sword. They are two fundamentally different weapons.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 29, 2008 1:42:49 GMT
As painful as this is to say I agree with 'Stein (where is a vomiting smiley when I need one?) ;D If you were willing to pay a bit more than $300 I would suggest an ATrim as by all accounts and reckonings they are amazing blades. Go for one of his LPM swords if you are really interested in a more medieval sword.
|
|
|
Post by rammstein on Jan 29, 2008 1:49:42 GMT
Ma perche! I thought you and I had made up a while ago ;D Guess I'll have to start verbal-izing you once more Actually LPM swords (and most Atrims in general) have a CoG that's on the short side historically speaking. I think gus said that he does this because it's how his customers wanted their swords. Many of his earlier sword had a CoG of 8 inches or more - I for one would love this - historical blade heavy swords, ftw!
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 29, 2008 2:13:18 GMT
There's a few for sale on MyArmoury and SFI by Ken Jay.
Theres a Type X that has a balance point of 6.5".
|
|
|
Post by Brian of DBK on Jan 29, 2008 2:14:36 GMT
Although if you don't know how to sharpen I imagine that the DSA swords would be unforgiving for a beginner to try their hand at? I personally like what arms of valour have done with the gen 2's with custom wrap. Although if you are willing to pay to get it sharpened, I would reccomend the gothic with custom wrap and sharpening, that is just my opinion though. Well said. I can't think of any DSA blade that I would call 'forgiving'.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 29, 2008 2:24:36 GMT
Although using something like a smiths's kit it probably wouldn't be too hard, smith kits are great even for beginners to use because you can sharpen with them at the right angles without causing yourself much issue because the blade is guided along the angle without you having to do too much manually.
|
|
|
Post by Brian of DBK on Jan 29, 2008 2:31:17 GMT
I learned to sharpen on cheap wallhangers. It takes practice, which most people can't afford to do. Your most likely going to ruin your swords geometry with an inexperienced hand.
A DSA blade is very thick, and as such requires a steeper bevel, if you want to cut well enough to leave the bottom half of a bottle on the stand. Otherwise it will cut rugged, and explode the bottle. Because of the steep bevel, it requires and even more experienced hand to remove so much steel.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 29, 2008 2:40:55 GMT
Fair enough mate, I just figured that a smith's kit which guides the angle of the stone on the blade would be good when used in conjuction with one of them accusharp things.
|
|
|
Post by Brian of DBK on Jan 29, 2008 2:57:55 GMT
Depends on if the smith's kit allowed you to 'sweep' the length of the blade at a particular angle.
|
|
|
Post by oos3thoo on Jan 29, 2008 4:05:32 GMT
I don't mind it being heavy at all! I dont mind it being 1/2 an inch thick, as long as it is tough, can cut and is pretty. I don't mind the extra weight, maybe it will strengthen my arms and make my katana feel lighter than an aluminum Iaito. I am considering the gothic or 14th century 2 hander. I don't care for historical accuracy, I just want a dependable weapon. I also may buy myself a Cheness SGC Yamakami 9260 Spring Steel Katana. They look tough as hell!
|
|
|
Post by oos3thoo on Jan 29, 2008 4:08:08 GMT
BTW how is the 1301 Ranger sword? The reason I want darksword is becuase it is in canada and I wanna support Canadian sword makers.
|
|
|
Post by rammstein on Jan 29, 2008 4:09:36 GMT
Then may I recommend a mace or a club?
A sword is not for you if that's what you're looking for.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 29, 2008 4:11:43 GMT
Then may I recommend a mace or a club? A sword is not for you if that's what you're looking for. he wants a sword that has been eating too much McDonalds
|
|