"Patina" or "corrosive neglect:" when is OK to remove it?

Unfortunately a lot of antique survivors suffered from being heirloomed in a dank attic without any ongoing maintenance. These are the ones that have blacked out in most cases. The worst of them are attacked by dust and moisture that begins to eat into the steel and cause visible pocks and residual rust.

Stopping corrosion and protecting such swords is acceptable conservation. Restoration is another kettle of fish that requires tools and an advanced level of skills.

Old conservators tell me that Johnsons Paste Wax is an old standby. Just keep applying and cleaning off until no dirt or rust comes up during the wipe off. This usally taks about 5-6 applications. Doesn't work too bad and leaves a wax barrirer on the metal.

Applying Aluminum to steel actually works destaining the weapon. Apply water to the aluminum and start rubbing the blade. Takes time but works. Re oil blade before putting back.

Brass guards are used a lot on swords. They are relatively easy to restore to a high state. Brasso still works, but I have found simichrome to be even better. You'll need some old tooth brushes to attack etched hilts. Tea rags are good for cleaning but the new generation of high density micro fiber detailing clothes for cars are very good on final detail and polish.

Have used Renwax in the past. It works. So does the Johnson paste wax. Darkwood Armory provides the ancient olive oil and beeswax mix. For steel also have started using Militec instead.

Nothing definitive in the list. Still own some pretty stained treasures.

to Dave Kelly:
Could you tell some more about the Aluminum treatment please?
And how does one go about those black spots close to guard, a hard to reach spot where also some of the marks are to be found?
Thank you very much,Ulahn.

I agree with you, Luka. That, I think, is why the Japanese and the general American/to a lesser extent European cultures are so different upon swords. The Japanese know that even old swords can be used today if they are kept in a useful condition. The European/American, on the other hand, was until very recently content to simply let old swords rot-- not keeping them in shape, but rather piling them up in dusty and damp armouries or melting them down for scrap. That's why most of our evidence for medieval swords is corroded pieces of steel dug out of the ground or pulled out of rivers, while Japanese swords from the equivalent periods are still shining like the day their owners used them.

Ulahn:

Check out articles on polishing with Aluminum Foil. It works; although its rather intense work if you are dealing with only good conditioned blades.

Crinkle up the aluminum foil or find some small fine files and work carefully to attack the deposits. Anything finer detailed would require a disassembly and a professional restorer to deep clean.

Hello All ;

As a restorer of a variety of antiques of a Martial nature, I feel I must throw in my $ 0.02 .

First, I do not want any of my comments to be applied to any Japanese swords, museum quality swords or swords of a particular historicity. In other words, do not do any of these things to a 12th century Chokuto or General Cornwallis' sword that was surrendered at York Town. However, for all other swords, the blade should be bright, polished, and ready for combat. This especially applies to more modern swords, such as Puerto Segurros and Pattons, as well as British and French blades from the 19th and early 20th centuries.

If the sword can be dis-assembled, it will make it easier to clean the blade, but these methods can be applied to any sword.

I must give a quick word about Rust, or, more properly, Oxidation. This is generally either brown rust, Fe2 O3, ( Hematite ), or black rust, Fe3 O4, (Magnetite). Hematite generally forms in the presence of moisture, and is a lower density, with a grainy texture. Magnetite forms in a more dry environment, and is denser, with a more glassy texture. Both can cause both a surface layer on a sword blade, as well as pitting into the blade. And, in my opinion, both should be removed. The best way to remove rust in my opinion is by careful abrasion of the surface.

The best material to use is Silicon Carbide Sandpaper. You can obtain this at any hardware or auto supply store, it is the 'black' sandpaper, and the best grades to purchase are, in order of coarse to fine , 240 grit, 400 grit, 600 grit, 1200 grit, and, if desired, 1600 and 2000 grits, The last three can be most readily found at auto supply shops, where they are sold for the purpose of wet sanding auto paint.

You will also need one or more sanding blocks, the best size being 5 1/2 inches by 2 inches by 1/2 inch. The best wood for these is either Oak or Walnut. Pine is too soft, and will not keep it's edges square. If you will be cleaning rust out of fullers or blood grooves, then a wooden dowel rod of about the diameter of the groove will be useful, or else a narrow wooden block with a rounded edge that matches the groove. It is important to use sanding blocks as much as possible to prevent creating 'waviness' or rounded edges on the sword blade you are polishing.

Finally, a can of a light machine oil, such as '3 in 1 Oil' , which will help you achieve a better finish on the blade.


To start with, decide what grit of paper you will start with. The more severe the corrosion, the rougher the grit you will want to start with. Let us assume you will be starting with 240 grit. Take one of the sheets of sandpaper, and tear it into two pieces, each 5 1/2 by 8 inches in size. Wrap one of them around the sanding block, making the corners sharp and square.

It will help to have the blade flat on a bench surface, so that you can put a lot of pressure on the block, and keep the blade from flexing.

Begin cleaning the rust off the blade by simply sanding the rust off the blade with the sanding block, keeping the sanding block as flat to the blade as possible, and moving the block along the length of the blade. It is important to make ALL of your sanding motion along the length of the blade, and NEVER sand 'crosswise' to the blade. A crosswise sanding motion can impart scratches across the blade, which can develop into stress cracks and cause the blade to fail.

You will probably use up a number of sheets of the first grit you start with in order to remove the corrosion. Remember: Silicon Carbide Paper is cheap, Swords are expensive.

You may find that you have pitting on the blade. Small pits can generally be ignored, and 'sanded over'. Large areas of corrosion that have resulted in an area that is significantly depressed will require a decision. Generally, I take a small piece of the sandpaper, and, using my thumb as a backing, work the paper back and forth in the depression until the corrosion is scrubbed out of the area. Then, go back to using the block, and try to 'blend' the area in as best you can.

Fullers or blood grooves can be sanded by wrapping the silicon carbide paper around either the wooden dowel, or using a sanding block with a rounded edge. Again, all sanding should be conducted along the length of the blade.

When you have removed the corrosion from the entire length of the blade, you can now proceed to the next finer grit, such as 400. Again, using the block, begin sanding the length of the blade, with the goal of removing the scratches created by the 240 grit paper. Continue this process with the 600, 1200, and so on, until you have achieved the degree of polish desired. When you reach the 1200 grit stage, you can improve the degree of finish by using some of the light oil on the sandpaper, and keeping the paper moist with the oil while polishing with it.

The above steps will allow you to get a neat, workmanlike finish on any old, abused sword, and, with the use of a wipe of clean oil followed by a rubbing with wax, you can keep the blade bright for years.

Respectfully;

Paul R. Ward

I'm not sure that japanese collectors polish old blades to keep them ready for use. I believe katana are polished to see the hamon-hada and admire it. If we're not talking about swords in the condition of ​​the maritime rusty piece of iron, the ordinary rusty sword can be used not less than polished sword.
I do not agree that old European blades should be restored like Japanese. The Japanese nakago has a lot of information - rust, sign, etc.. This nakago is available for examination and rust must be preserved here.
This is not possible in European blades. Of course, brown rust should be very gently cleaning off and the black rust must eradicate from micropitting. It is chemically active substances and "eat" iron. It must be deleted as caries. But the dark patina must be preserved. Patina is an indication of age. It should be protected. Without it swords becoming a new European replicas.