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Post by Thump on Oct 25, 2012 18:07:49 GMT
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Post by Sir Thorfinn on Oct 25, 2012 20:17:45 GMT
I *just* got my 'Wicked Edge' sharpener, and am practicing on some knives, but I fully intend to test it on a junk sword and post the results.
Functionally they are very similar, but I really doubt the edge pro statement 'can sharpen any length blade'. While yes you could, that means you're still doing it in about 15 inch chunks, and blending the overlap. To do 'any length' you'd need a slide arm at least as long as 1/2 the sword blade plus the distance from the vice to the edge. So thinking of doing a 40" blade, you'd probably need a 30 inch slide rod. (20 inches + the distance to the vice 10) Now I'm just guessing here on the vice distance, but I'm quite sure they don't sell the long rods. Sorry for being being overly technical here.
Now can I justify the cost of the very specialized sharpener I bought? Heck no. Is it a multi tasker? Again, no. So if your budget is tight, buy a belt sander and a little safety equipment, it will prove incredibly useful in lots of ways, not just sharpening.
If you've got the budget, and want to get fanatical about the edge...oh yeah, you can drop 1k in a heartbeat on the high end sharpening systems. And you can get an edge finer than a high end Katana. And I only say this because the professional sword polishers don't use graduated diamond paste etc.
The real fun happens when you go cut something...
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Post by earthstar on Jul 14, 2018 3:24:30 GMT
Hi all. I'm a newbe and looking for a sharpening system that will work well for a sword, and wondering if any of you'all have tried the EdgePro. The moderator who answerd this tread 6 years ago did not understand the distinction between the his 'clamped' system the free sliding EdgePro system, so his well meaning comments are misinformed. So, anyone here used the EdgePro on a sword?
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Post by Wes Cameron on Jul 14, 2018 7:28:29 GMT
Hi all. I'm a newbe and looking for a sharpening system that will work well for a sword, and wondering if any of you'all have tried the EdgePro. The moderator who answerd this tread 6 years ago did not understand the distinction between the his 'clamped' system the free sliding EdgePro system, so his well meaning comments are misinformed. So, anyone here used the EdgePro on a sword? In what way(s) did Sir Thorfinn not understand it? I looked at the system on-line, and from what I see, it seems he understood it and that it is not something to use for a sword. I'm not seasoned at sharpening, in fact I just did my first sharpening of my sword using a slack belt sander. It was easy to do, quick and put a wicked edge on the blade. The initial outlay of $ was not very expensive either. Unless I'm not understanding the EdgePro use, I'd agree with Sir Thorfinn.
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Post by earthstar on Jul 14, 2018 17:52:37 GMT
OK, the WickedEdge system relies on clamping the blade in a small vise while the EdgePro has no vise, but instead requires the operator to hold the blade on a lil platform while running the stones over the blade edge. Instead of taking 15" passes as SirThorfinn surmised, you would instead take many 2"-3" passes and move the blade each time as is demonstrated on a kitchen knife in this video:
I would guess this would be quite a bit slower but much more precise than a slack belt...I would guess. Anyone here tried it?
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Post by Wes Cameron on Jul 14, 2018 19:01:10 GMT
Haven't tried it, but did watch some videos on it where it was not that precise on what looks like a 7 or so inch knife. The guy said he would have to modify the sharpener to get better results.
The slack belt sander gives great results and you don't need a vice as long as the person doing the sharpening keeps the angle required and doesn't float or change it (this is easy when you have a guide made out of a block of wood as in the video below). I found that only two passes are needed with 600, 800, 1000, and the about four passes with a leather belt for the final edge. I found that rocking back and forth did not work well for me, so I just had one end of the blade in each hand as I stood over it (wear a safety mask and gloves) and moved it from guard to tip on each side (four).
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Post by AB on Jul 14, 2018 23:50:48 GMT
I know this is something like my fifth post, but I have been sharpening things for almost 40 years and have tried a lot of techniques and gear. I've never used an EdgePro, but just looking at it I can see where it looks like it would be most successful with a blade with a flat spine that would sit tightly and consistently against the machine. I'm not sure a double edged sword with bevels on both sides would sit consistently enough the get the result you would expect from a system like that.
Also, without knowing what the back edge of that holder is made of I would want to be sure it could take contact with a three pound razor blade without eroding it or damaging the edge I just put on it. If that ledge can hold a consistent angle on a beveled blade without damaging the edge and the user is consistent with number of strokes as they moved the blade along, it could work.
It wouldn't be my first choice for sharpening a long blade like a sword. I can't afford my first choice, which would be a variable speed KMG 2x72 belt grinder with a good angle guide, so I satisfy myself with what everyone appears to have already discovered: the Harbor Freight 1x30. I do add an angle guide that keeps me consistent and I use an edge-leading rather than an edge-trailing technique.
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Post by MOK on Jul 15, 2018 7:31:49 GMT
You don't really need mechanical guides unless the blade has a distinct secondary edge that you want to preserve, anyway. Or power tools, either, for that matter. Just glue or tape various grades of sandpaper to some plywood and go, you'll get the hang of it with practice.
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Post by RickDastardly on Jul 15, 2018 11:50:55 GMT
AB, those are exactly my thoughts on the EdgePro too, with about as much experience (started sharpening knives on roadside curb stones when I was about 9, lol). But... you don't mean you do final sharpening edge-leading on that belt do you? I would only do that for grinding a bevel into an unsharpened blade, not final sharpening.
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Post by AB on Jul 15, 2018 13:19:29 GMT
I run my grit progressions edge leading until I get to about 1200, then I switch to edge trailing for the final burr removal and polish using finer grits, leather strops, and felt belts with compound on them.
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Post by RickDastardly on Jul 15, 2018 13:56:09 GMT
I see... not sure my nerves could cope with that but at least you can see more clearly what you're doing. Sounds like you know how to make a really good edge there; there's nothing like a finely polished edge. I guess your angle guide helps keep the blade stable and prevent it catching, along with a firm and steady hand. I can't help recalling a guy who worked at one of the top name knife makers though: he had a moment's distraction on the belt, caught the up edge and the blade spun in his hands. Not a pretty picture! Take care
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Post by AB on Jul 15, 2018 14:20:37 GMT
Oh absolutely. I would never attempt an edge-leading technique without a guide. The motion of the belt pulls the blade into the guide and keeps it stable enough you don't have to use a death-grip to keep it in position. I've seen guys do it freehand and I almost can't watch it. All my freehand is done trailing!
Interestingly, it's notable that the accident you're aware of was with a person with a lot of experience. Experience can breed complacency with safety protocols and it's incumbent upon us to always keep a beginner's mind when it comes to that.
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Post by Wes Cameron on Jul 15, 2018 14:26:12 GMT
Oh absolutely. I would never attempt an edge-leading technique without a guide. The motion of the belt pulls the blade into the guide and keeps it stable enough you don't have to use a death-grip to keep it in position. I've seen guys do it freehand and I almost can't watch it. All my freehand is done trailing! Interestingly, it's notable that the accident you're aware of was with a person with a lot of experience. Experience can breed complacency with safety protocols and it's incumbent upon us to always keep a beginner's mind when it comes to that. Whew...glad you made that clear. When I read your first post, I thought to myself, I would never attempt that without full body armor including hands, forearms, neck, face, and more.
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pgandy
Moderator
Senior Forumite
Posts: 10,296
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Post by pgandy on Jul 15, 2018 15:39:32 GMT
I did many a blade using sandpaper but I used a compressible backing to follow surface of a convex blade. I now use for the most part a Work Sharp as it’s faster and less tiring. The Blade Grinder Attachment is on the want list. Using the WS free handed my edge always trails, with the guide both ways.
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Post by AB on Jul 15, 2018 17:09:28 GMT
I have a Work Sharp (Ken Onion), but it hasn't been used since I got the 1x30. The 1x30 is much faster, but requires more skill on the part of the user simply because things happen so fast at the lower grits and dealing with the tips can be tedious when they have an unusual shape. I contemplated getting the blade grinder for the Work Sharp, but after some contemplation I went with the 1x30 instead. My next iteration will be either a variable speed motor to put on the grinder I have or simply buy a new grinder with one already on it. The Work Sharp does have a distinct advantage by being able to slow things down and leather strops are available for it now.
That being said, unless I was in the business of sharpening things (which I was) or just had an interest in the topic (which I do) I wouldn't feel underequipped with the Work Sharp.
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pgandy
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Senior Forumite
Posts: 10,296
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Post by pgandy on Jul 15, 2018 18:06:17 GMT
I have a Work Sharp (Ken Onion), but it hasn't been used since I got the 1x30. The 1x30 is much faster, but requires more skill on the part of the user simply because things happen so fast at the lower grits and dealing with the tips can be tedious when they have an unusual shape. I contemplated getting the blade grinder for the Work Sharp, but after some contemplation I went with the 1x30 instead. My next iteration will be either a variable speed motor to put on the grinder I have or simply buy a new grinder with one already on it. The Work Sharp does have a distinct advantage by being able to slow things down and leather strops are available for it now. That being said, unless I was in the business of sharpening things (which I was) or just had an interest in the topic (which I do) I wouldn't feel underequipped with the Work Sharp. My Work Sharp is the KO model. This has a built in variable speed control and I use it at low to medium speeds so as my work does not to get away from me. On the subject of variable speed, and this is only an idea and would be cheaper than buying a new motor or a new grinder and that is to attach a speed control to what you already have. Years back I had a one speed Dremel Tool for which I got such a device. Here’s an Amazon page offering a variety of controls, many of which are foot controlled. www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_pg_1?rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Adremel+speed+control&keywords=dremel+speed+control&ie=UTF8&qid=1531676478 It seems to me like mine was just a simple table mounted rheostat that functioned by rotating a knob, which I would much prefer to the foot operated jobbies I see here, especially when working on a long blade. I plugged control into the wall and the tool into it, then rotated the knob to the speed I wanted. If the WS didn’t have a speed control I’d certainly opt for an external source. I can’t imagine operating a belt sander at one speed only. Also FWIW, no need to buy a leather stropping belt unless one is in a hurry for such a thing. I use a worn out X4 belt w/red jeweller’s rouge. Other people may prefer a different buffing compound. The WS leather stropping belt would cost me about $40-50 after importing.
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Post by RickDastardly on Jul 15, 2018 19:20:46 GMT
Yes, a variable speed (while maintaining torque) would make those little 1" belt grinders great. I would use mine more. I investigated the possibility of building a speed controller a while back (I'm an electronics nut) and discovered it's not practical to control those single-phase induction motors. It can be done a bit but they lose far too much torque. The only real answer was to try to find a small enough 3-phase motor to replace it with and use a proper inverter/VFD on it. That's getting into the price of bigger grinders though. Or, I suppose, a universal motor would do too, but getting the right size would likely kill the idea. pgandy I made my own leather belt for it, from a 1" wide leather strip carefully sliced to give a long, tapering joint, glued and stitched. It's not bad; there's a little bump as the joint comes around, but it hasn't flown apart yet Using a worn, fine belt is definitely easier though.
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Post by earthstar on Jul 15, 2018 23:53:38 GMT
Ya, this does seem to be THE way folks sharpen their swords. I also found this video particularly useful for using the slack belt sander:
I'm probably going to have to conduct my own experiments w the Edge Pro. I'll report back. Thx! -Daniel
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Post by AB on Jul 15, 2018 23:58:19 GMT
FWIW, I don't run it truly with a slack belt. I leave the platten in place which is an additional safety feature because it will stop me if I push the blade into the belt too far. I build a box around it so I can turn it on it's back and run it flat away from me when I use edge-trailing and the portion above the platten is enough slack for me to get a concave bevel if I want one.
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Post by Jordan Williams on Jul 16, 2018 3:28:23 GMT
I usually just use a wet stone. My falkniven DC4 is great. Leather strop (the one you hold on your foot) can be useful to just sort of finely touch the edge.
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