|
Post by Rob Dorsey on Sept 18, 2014 16:44:06 GMT
Hi Rabbit,
Long time. You may remember a couple of years ago I published a similar "course" on polishing/sharpening which was quite different from yours but never mind, your system appears quiet good, the results speak for themselves, and quite safe as well. Safer than mine for sure.
One question though. Almost all of my blades have Niku or convex ji with a continuous curve from the shinogi to the ha, no secondary bevel. I have been very aggressive in demanding this shape from the forge in Long Quan with whom I deal and they have always followed through. I have corrected some edges by removing a secondary bevel and refining the shape to true Niku. I understand the argument that Niku blades cannot be gotten as sharp but that is all to do with the thickness at the shinogi and the cord or width of the blade. I have had no problem maintain my blades at true "razor" sharpness. Also, the Niku shape holds its edge better and is much more directionally stable and sturdy in cutting.
I noticed that you had the student stop if a straight edge test revealed any curvature and if the blade should have a concave or hollow-ground ji then this is very understandable. However, there is no reason not to press on with the nice setup you have on a convex, Niku blade.
Hope this finds you well and with beer money, RD
|
|
|
Post by frankthebunny on Sept 18, 2014 21:28:18 GMT
I agree with this completely. The blade I own with the most niku, including heavy ha niku, is easy to sharpen to hair splitting sharpness.
|
|
|
Post by lethalcurves on Jan 13, 2015 16:41:29 GMT
Great tutorial , i have a few questions though , what sand paper did you use? A special paper for metal? Also my swords already have edges but i want them razor sharp , do i just skip to 1200 grit or higher?
|
|
|
Post by aussie-rabbit on Jan 14, 2015 10:12:50 GMT
Great tutorial , i have a few questions though , what sand paper did you use? A special paper for metal? Also my swords already have edges but i want them razor sharp , do i just skip to 1200 grit or higher? Yep, 1200 to 2000 or higher, lighter strokes then finish with the strop-stick, practise makes for a truly sharp edge,
|
|
|
Post by lethalcurves on Jan 23, 2015 18:54:04 GMT
Great tutorial , i have a few questions though , what sand paper did you use? A special paper for metal? Also my swords already have edges but i want them razor sharp , do i just skip to 1200 grit or higher? Yep, 1200 to 2000 or higher, lighter strokes then finish with the strop-stick, practise makes for a truly sharp edge, Cheers buddy , im trying to remove fine surface scratches on a wakizashi , but im scared of messing up the shinogi line what would be the best method as i dont want the edge rolled. I recently bought some cilica carbide wet n dry for metal from 500 to 2000 grit , how do you know when it is time to change the paper
|
|
|
Post by aussie-rabbit on Jan 24, 2015 2:08:05 GMT
Yep, 1200 to 2000 or higher, lighter strokes then finish with the strop-stick, practise makes for a truly sharp edge, Cheers buddy , im trying to remove fine surface scratches on a wakizashi , but im scared of messing up the shinogi line what would be the best method as i dont want the edge rolled. I recently bought some cilica carbide wet n dry for metal from 500 to 2000 grit , how do you know when it is time to change the paper I find the best way is to tape the line with masking tape, this way you can see if your angle is wrong without marking the line, if you only have fine scratches start with 800 grit or higher and use a lubricant such as light oil, clamp the blade to a flat surface and work with patience
|
|
|
Post by Nishikigoi on Dec 3, 2015 23:37:55 GMT
Nicely done, ... I look forward to trying out your method!
|
|