Review: Kris Cutlery Katana 26-A (Updated 10 November 2012)
Aug 14, 2012 5:17:01 GMT
Post by Kuya on Aug 14, 2012 5:17:01 GMT
I only have a few pictures for this review, because Frankthebunny and adrian.jordan have @$$loads of pictures of a 26-A and a 26-III (a 26-A with an itty bitty 3-4 inch fuller) in their reviews.
Introduction
This isn't my sword, but I really want one now. At the rate they sell at, and the really small batches (The batch this one came in had only five in it, and I believe they only replenish two or three times a year.), I may be waiting several months for one. Unless I'm really lucky, and the two remaining from this batch (if even that, but three of the five were spoken for by members of this forum: this one, Frankthebunny got one, and stickem did as well) haven't sold by the time I get enough disposable funds to afford yet another sword...
Anyway, as I said, this sword isn't mine. It's a friend's that had me pick it up from Cecil (Kris Cutlery's owner) after giving me her Munetoshi Mokko which was bit too long for her tastes and stature (see that sword's review here.
Full Disclosure
I'm a rookie when it comes to the sword scene. This review may not agree with the majority of established veteran sword enthusiasts. I also don't have swords sent to me for free to review, so as usual for my reviews, this review is in the eyes of a buyer (or someone close to the person who bought the sword in this case).
Initial Impressions
As with every sword I review... I held it aloft and said, "By the power of Gray Skull, I have the power!"
Nothing. No fabulous secrets, no transformations, and no Orko.
Since I've been exposed to a Kris Cutlery Katana before (I own a 29-II, see review here, I knew most of what to expect. But as with what Frankthebunny said in another thread regarding this batch, the quality is a touch higher than some previous ones. I could tell too when I picked it up and did an initial inspection a couple days ago. At the time, however, I wasn't sure if what I was noticing was actually there or just from it being lucky to have followed the most recent sword I tested and handled being somewhat of a dud. After I seeing that Frankthebunny had the same experience as well, I figure it's true.
Statistics
Copying from Kris Cutlery's Site and Frankthebunny's review.
This particular 26-A weighed in at 2.3 lbs (1.05 kg) without the saya/scabbard, but two of the ten readings I did (five times on each scale) came up with a 2.2 lbs (1.0 kg) (both times happened on only one of the scales), and has a 4.75" (12 cm) balance point. The blade was a tiny bit over 26" (66 cm) when measured at the base of where the spine went into the blade collar notch.
The Blade
The finish on this sword wasn't quite as shiny as the one on my KC 29-II, but it was still very even and the yokote and kissaki area blended in rather well, despite being counter-polished. Like all other KC 26s, it has a geometric yokote and a rather small kissaki style. The hamon is more visible than it was on my K29-II, but still has to be really looked for and in the right angle of light to notice it. The one on my 29-II was like finding Waldo. I took some side-by-side pictures with the Munetoshi Mokko to illustrate the difference in curve compared to a "standard" production katana's curve.
The curve continues into the tang and handle, so when the actual bottoms of the swords are lined up, the curve is even more pronounced. The guard is also tilted when the line reference is the end of the handle instead of the guard itself since the handle is also curved.
In addition to being shorter and more curved, it also has a thinner spine and less wide profile (flat of the blade). Keep in mind that the Munetoshi Mokko was made to be a light-cutter, but next to the 26-A, it looks a little chubby, doesn't it? However, when looking from a cross-section with the point or edge facing you, you can see that the 26-A has more roundness in the ji area (blade face). According to what I've been told, this roundness (niku meat) is supposed to keep the 26-A from being a frail sword in spite of its thinness.
The mune/spine of the blade has a unique feature in that it has three faces to it. The standard two slanting upward from the shinogi-ji come to one more flat surface rather than a point/edge. Frankthebunny's review linked at the beginning of this review has a good picture of it.
Some comment on how the Kris Cutlery 26/29 lines have "softer" and "less crisp" shinogi, yokote, and other assorted blade ridges/lines. This is true, but for whatever reason, they go well with this sword. Perhaps because it has a more curved shape and a rounder blade face? Whatever it is, the 26-A has a very organic look to it.
The Handle
The wrap is a synthetic and shiny cloth. The wrap done on this sword is better than the one that my 29-II came with. The spacing is more even, and it's alternating as well. Fuchi and kashira are made of blackened iron with a smooth and shiny finish with no designs on them. Everyone already knows how the KC 26/29 lines don't have samegawa, but instead a rough gauze like material that has been hardened and lacquered. That may be a negative to those who want "traditional" stuff, but it works just as well and doesn't cost the life of an innocent stingray. The way it curves along with the blade is a nice touch and adds to the aesthetics.
Held together in the modern fashion of two pegs, the handle feels well fit and secure. This is also due to the fact that each handle is made for each blade individually! A very rare feature in this price range. The handle's taper also happens along the spine/edge view as well as the side profile. It's not too small for my somewhat large man hands, and considering how much thinner it is than the handles on my Cheness SGC and the Munetoshi Mokko (the handle of the Munetoshi Mokko is the one pictured with the 26-A's), I would think that it's a good sized grip for those with smaller hands as well (at least compared to your average sized handles).
The menuki on this 26-A are the optional black variant of Kris Cutlery's dragon design. It matches the over-all look of the stock fittings much better than the standard shiny brass versions.
The Guard
The tsuba is a blackened iron circle with two little holes on the spine side. The edges are rounded to keep from any discomfort or accidental injury. It may be plain, but without all that open space that many current trendy carved out designs have, it helps keep the sword from being blade-heavy.
The Scabbard
Kris Cutlery's sayas are an oval shape rather than your standard run-of-the-mill "egg-shaped" saya. It feels good in my hands, like a thick handle. Sure, you don't get that tactile feel of "which way is sharp" if you're not looking, but if you are drawing and putting away the sword without looking, you should be skilled enough to know in which direction you were holding it in the first place.
The finish is an uncoated, yet very smooth, natural wood style. I guess you could say that it's "unfinished." It looks good and different as opposed to your basic mono-colored lacquered black/red/blue that most katanas come with. There is no rattle in the saya if I walk and run with the sword, but if I shake it hard enough, I can make it rattle. I'm told that this is normal for this price point (under $500).
Well-finished blackened iron makes up the saya's koiguchi and kojiri, just like they make up the ends of the tsuka. The kurikata is made of black horn, and has a marble-like pattern. It's a very nice looking piece that will unfortunately be mostly covered up by whatever sageo gets added to it.
Handling Characteristics
With the shorter length, less-wide profile, and thinner spine, the balance of the 26-A is very agile. It feels so much easier to wield one-handed than most other katanas, but still has just enough weight so that you don't feel that it won't be able to cut through anything. The feel of the ito feels a little harsher than your standard cotton. It resembles the feel of some "wire wrapped" European style swords that I held at the recent SBG Meet I went to. Not soft to the touch, but still grippy.
Slicing and changing direction with a two-handed grip is ridiculously easy! The only katana I've handled that feels more agile than this is the KC 26-II (the version with the bo-hi) that was mistakenly made/sent in place of one of the six 26-As in this batch. So it had the amazing balance and lightness of this sword, but with the additional lightening of having a bo-hi! And that wasn't all, the blade was also just a touch over 25.5" instead of the standard 26". That sword felt QUICK!
There is also a different "feel" to the way the sword handles. Because of how the tang and handle are also curved along with the blade, a person's grip on it isn't quite the same as a normal straight handled katana. This curve seems to promote more of a "pulling/slicing" action rather than a "flicking/chopping" one.
Test Cutting
Cutting single roll beach mats was very easy. Even though all three of the test cutters were mostly inexperienced non-pro cutters, none of the cuts were failed. A double roll for each of us was available. These proved to be more difficult for my friends. They were not able to get all the way through all of their cuts, and they said that it required quite a bit more effort on the ones that did go through. When I cut up my double roll, there were no failures. I only took two cuts, though, and handed the sword back so that they could take the final two or three left on the roll, and I could watch them. I'm no expert, but it looked like they were "chopping" and not "slicing." That may be why they couldn't make it through as easily as I did.
Cutting plastic soda bottles (20 oz, 1 L, and 2 L), too easy. I don't know if this should even be considered "test cutting" anymore. After we ran out of the bottles I had laying around the house, we went to the local Target and bought some pool noodles and also dropped by a convenience store and picked up all their newspapers (Thursday editions aren't nearly as big as Sunday's) as well.
Pool noodles. It's hilarious to watch inexperienced people cut pool noodles. I remembered just how bad I was at it when I first started. Most don't think that they'd be as difficult to cut as they are. With pool noodles, I had an 80% success rate. Shaving off thinner slices, and when the noodle got shorter, were still difficult for me.
Soaked quadruple Thursday newspapers proved to be a problem for my friends, and they were not able to cut through with a single swing at all. I didn't want to be rude, so I purposely failed some of my cuts. But on the cuts I did actually try on for review purposes, I was able to succeed on about half of them. The "shock" feeling with this 26-A wasn't felt as much as when I cut with my 29-II.
Conclusions
Once again, Kris Cutlery delivers. The fit and finish of the sword is great, the sword handles amazingly. Some have commented on the sharpness of Kris Cutlery blades being sub-par in the past. I think they may have read those reviews and posts, and fixed them this batch. Or perhaps this batch was just better, because the smiths are getting better with more and more practice and experience?
Had I not been the third person in line to cut with this sword (she and her boyfriend who is my best friend cut with it before me), I would have thought some of the cutting ability of the sword would be accredited to me getting better with my technique. We had so much fun cutting with this sword, after we killed all the beach mats I pre-soaked, we went to the local convenience store and bought all of their newspapers, then went to the local Target and bought 20 pool noodles.
This 26-A definitely cut better than my 29-II. It could be because this batch was sharpened better, or the fact that the A-Types have no bo-hi, maybe there isn't as much niku? One can never tell what factors were different with handmade swords, since every sword is going to be a little different, even when they're the same model.
Pros
+ Handles like a dream.
+ Cuts both light and heavier targets well.
+ Great fit and finish.
+ Nice curve to the whole sword.
+ Geometric yokote
+ Three-faced mune.
+ Good amount of blade meat.
Cons
- Synthetic ito.
- Didn't kill a stingray to make it.
- Plain fittings.
- Unfinished saya.
- Saya rattle if you shake it hard (what sub-$500 katana doesn't?).
- Batches have varying levels of polish and sharpness.
The Bottom Line
The above "cons" are not cons to me, but I have to be fair to the people that read this, and make sure they know what they're going to get. So I listed what I think most people would consider "cons." I personally don't think that having a rayskin alternative is a bad thing, and while these fittings are plain, they fit better than most fancy fittings. I also like the uniqueness of seeing the wood grain on the saya over your basic black piano saya (for this katana, some katanas look really good with a piano black saya).
As before with my Kris Cutlery 29-II review, I would not recommend this sword to a person who is obsessed with "traditional" katanas. Those people shouldn't be buying katanas in this price range... or even in the $2K range, because they aren't the real traditional katanas they base their Kris Cutlery bashing on either. So no, this katana isn't for a wannabe prude "traditionalist." A real traditionalist wouldn't even consider a non-nihonto after all.
I would recommend this katana to a person who wants a quality blade and doesn't want to break the bank. For its price, you get a lot. Even though there are forges like Huawei out there giving you great bang for the buck as well, I would pick a KC 26-A over anything Huawei makes in the same price range. The 26-A might not be as shiny or fancy looking, but the way it looks and handles just feels right. There's a reason why this line has a following.
Rating: Five out of five stars.
Adjusted Rating: Four out of five stars. (This rating is for people who prefer "traditional" and "flashy" stuff, but still value a quality cutter.)
This sword beats my Kris Cutlery 29-II, and I love it almost as much as my Dynasty Forge O-Katana. I will get one from the next batch. I hope it will be as good as this particular 26-A.
Updated Information
10 November 2012
I like this sword so much, I ended up buying one for myself (as I planned to in the original review)!
Introduction
This isn't my sword, but I really want one now. At the rate they sell at, and the really small batches (The batch this one came in had only five in it, and I believe they only replenish two or three times a year.), I may be waiting several months for one. Unless I'm really lucky, and the two remaining from this batch (if even that, but three of the five were spoken for by members of this forum: this one, Frankthebunny got one, and stickem did as well) haven't sold by the time I get enough disposable funds to afford yet another sword...
Anyway, as I said, this sword isn't mine. It's a friend's that had me pick it up from Cecil (Kris Cutlery's owner) after giving me her Munetoshi Mokko which was bit too long for her tastes and stature (see that sword's review here.
Full Disclosure
I'm a rookie when it comes to the sword scene. This review may not agree with the majority of established veteran sword enthusiasts. I also don't have swords sent to me for free to review, so as usual for my reviews, this review is in the eyes of a buyer (or someone close to the person who bought the sword in this case).
Initial Impressions
As with every sword I review... I held it aloft and said, "By the power of Gray Skull, I have the power!"
Nothing. No fabulous secrets, no transformations, and no Orko.
Since I've been exposed to a Kris Cutlery Katana before (I own a 29-II, see review here, I knew most of what to expect. But as with what Frankthebunny said in another thread regarding this batch, the quality is a touch higher than some previous ones. I could tell too when I picked it up and did an initial inspection a couple days ago. At the time, however, I wasn't sure if what I was noticing was actually there or just from it being lucky to have followed the most recent sword I tested and handled being somewhat of a dud. After I seeing that Frankthebunny had the same experience as well, I figure it's true.
Statistics
Copying from Kris Cutlery's Site and Frankthebunny's review.
Kris Cutlery wrote
Blade: 26" 5160 carbon steel
Hamon: straight 60 RC hardness
Handle: 10 3/4"
Nakago (tang): 8.5"-9"
Tsuba: 3" diameter
Weight: 2.6 lbs. (without scabbard)
Blade: 26" 5160 carbon steel
Hamon: straight 60 RC hardness
Handle: 10 3/4"
Nakago (tang): 8.5"-9"
Tsuba: 3" diameter
Weight: 2.6 lbs. (without scabbard)
Frankthebunny wrote
Sugata(style/shape): Shinogi-Zukuri(sword with ridge)
Nagasa(length measured from mune-machi to tip): 26", 27" from Tsuba to tip
Motohaba(width of blade at Habaki): 31mm - 1.2"
Sakihaba(width of blade at Kissaki): 22mm - 0.86"
Motokasane(thickness of blade at base) 5mm - 0.19"
Sakikasane(thickness of blade at Yokote) 4mm - 0.15"
Kissaki(from Yokote to tip) 35mm - 1.37"
Koshi-Zori(curves near handle), Sori(depth of curvature) 13mm - 0.5" in
Tsuka(handle) 10 1/2"
Weight 2.6 Lbs without Saya
Steel - 5160 carbon steel
Hamon(temper line) - Suguha(staight) differentially hardened and water quenched
Nakago(tang) 9 7/8"(from mune machi)
POB 4 1/2"-5" from Tsuba
Sugata(style/shape): Shinogi-Zukuri(sword with ridge)
Nagasa(length measured from mune-machi to tip): 26", 27" from Tsuba to tip
Motohaba(width of blade at Habaki): 31mm - 1.2"
Sakihaba(width of blade at Kissaki): 22mm - 0.86"
Motokasane(thickness of blade at base) 5mm - 0.19"
Sakikasane(thickness of blade at Yokote) 4mm - 0.15"
Kissaki(from Yokote to tip) 35mm - 1.37"
Koshi-Zori(curves near handle), Sori(depth of curvature) 13mm - 0.5" in
Tsuka(handle) 10 1/2"
Weight 2.6 Lbs without Saya
Steel - 5160 carbon steel
Hamon(temper line) - Suguha(staight) differentially hardened and water quenched
Nakago(tang) 9 7/8"(from mune machi)
POB 4 1/2"-5" from Tsuba
This particular 26-A weighed in at 2.3 lbs (1.05 kg) without the saya/scabbard, but two of the ten readings I did (five times on each scale) came up with a 2.2 lbs (1.0 kg) (both times happened on only one of the scales), and has a 4.75" (12 cm) balance point. The blade was a tiny bit over 26" (66 cm) when measured at the base of where the spine went into the blade collar notch.
The Blade
The finish on this sword wasn't quite as shiny as the one on my KC 29-II, but it was still very even and the yokote and kissaki area blended in rather well, despite being counter-polished. Like all other KC 26s, it has a geometric yokote and a rather small kissaki style. The hamon is more visible than it was on my K29-II, but still has to be really looked for and in the right angle of light to notice it. The one on my 29-II was like finding Waldo. I took some side-by-side pictures with the Munetoshi Mokko to illustrate the difference in curve compared to a "standard" production katana's curve.
The curve continues into the tang and handle, so when the actual bottoms of the swords are lined up, the curve is even more pronounced. The guard is also tilted when the line reference is the end of the handle instead of the guard itself since the handle is also curved.
In addition to being shorter and more curved, it also has a thinner spine and less wide profile (flat of the blade). Keep in mind that the Munetoshi Mokko was made to be a light-cutter, but next to the 26-A, it looks a little chubby, doesn't it? However, when looking from a cross-section with the point or edge facing you, you can see that the 26-A has more roundness in the ji area (blade face). According to what I've been told, this roundness (niku meat) is supposed to keep the 26-A from being a frail sword in spite of its thinness.
The mune/spine of the blade has a unique feature in that it has three faces to it. The standard two slanting upward from the shinogi-ji come to one more flat surface rather than a point/edge. Frankthebunny's review linked at the beginning of this review has a good picture of it.
Some comment on how the Kris Cutlery 26/29 lines have "softer" and "less crisp" shinogi, yokote, and other assorted blade ridges/lines. This is true, but for whatever reason, they go well with this sword. Perhaps because it has a more curved shape and a rounder blade face? Whatever it is, the 26-A has a very organic look to it.
The Handle
The wrap is a synthetic and shiny cloth. The wrap done on this sword is better than the one that my 29-II came with. The spacing is more even, and it's alternating as well. Fuchi and kashira are made of blackened iron with a smooth and shiny finish with no designs on them. Everyone already knows how the KC 26/29 lines don't have samegawa, but instead a rough gauze like material that has been hardened and lacquered. That may be a negative to those who want "traditional" stuff, but it works just as well and doesn't cost the life of an innocent stingray. The way it curves along with the blade is a nice touch and adds to the aesthetics.
Held together in the modern fashion of two pegs, the handle feels well fit and secure. This is also due to the fact that each handle is made for each blade individually! A very rare feature in this price range. The handle's taper also happens along the spine/edge view as well as the side profile. It's not too small for my somewhat large man hands, and considering how much thinner it is than the handles on my Cheness SGC and the Munetoshi Mokko (the handle of the Munetoshi Mokko is the one pictured with the 26-A's), I would think that it's a good sized grip for those with smaller hands as well (at least compared to your average sized handles).
The menuki on this 26-A are the optional black variant of Kris Cutlery's dragon design. It matches the over-all look of the stock fittings much better than the standard shiny brass versions.
The Guard
The tsuba is a blackened iron circle with two little holes on the spine side. The edges are rounded to keep from any discomfort or accidental injury. It may be plain, but without all that open space that many current trendy carved out designs have, it helps keep the sword from being blade-heavy.
The Scabbard
Kris Cutlery's sayas are an oval shape rather than your standard run-of-the-mill "egg-shaped" saya. It feels good in my hands, like a thick handle. Sure, you don't get that tactile feel of "which way is sharp" if you're not looking, but if you are drawing and putting away the sword without looking, you should be skilled enough to know in which direction you were holding it in the first place.
The finish is an uncoated, yet very smooth, natural wood style. I guess you could say that it's "unfinished." It looks good and different as opposed to your basic mono-colored lacquered black/red/blue that most katanas come with. There is no rattle in the saya if I walk and run with the sword, but if I shake it hard enough, I can make it rattle. I'm told that this is normal for this price point (under $500).
Well-finished blackened iron makes up the saya's koiguchi and kojiri, just like they make up the ends of the tsuka. The kurikata is made of black horn, and has a marble-like pattern. It's a very nice looking piece that will unfortunately be mostly covered up by whatever sageo gets added to it.
Handling Characteristics
With the shorter length, less-wide profile, and thinner spine, the balance of the 26-A is very agile. It feels so much easier to wield one-handed than most other katanas, but still has just enough weight so that you don't feel that it won't be able to cut through anything. The feel of the ito feels a little harsher than your standard cotton. It resembles the feel of some "wire wrapped" European style swords that I held at the recent SBG Meet I went to. Not soft to the touch, but still grippy.
Slicing and changing direction with a two-handed grip is ridiculously easy! The only katana I've handled that feels more agile than this is the KC 26-II (the version with the bo-hi) that was mistakenly made/sent in place of one of the six 26-As in this batch. So it had the amazing balance and lightness of this sword, but with the additional lightening of having a bo-hi! And that wasn't all, the blade was also just a touch over 25.5" instead of the standard 26". That sword felt QUICK!
There is also a different "feel" to the way the sword handles. Because of how the tang and handle are also curved along with the blade, a person's grip on it isn't quite the same as a normal straight handled katana. This curve seems to promote more of a "pulling/slicing" action rather than a "flicking/chopping" one.
Test Cutting
Cutting single roll beach mats was very easy. Even though all three of the test cutters were mostly inexperienced non-pro cutters, none of the cuts were failed. A double roll for each of us was available. These proved to be more difficult for my friends. They were not able to get all the way through all of their cuts, and they said that it required quite a bit more effort on the ones that did go through. When I cut up my double roll, there were no failures. I only took two cuts, though, and handed the sword back so that they could take the final two or three left on the roll, and I could watch them. I'm no expert, but it looked like they were "chopping" and not "slicing." That may be why they couldn't make it through as easily as I did.
Cutting plastic soda bottles (20 oz, 1 L, and 2 L), too easy. I don't know if this should even be considered "test cutting" anymore. After we ran out of the bottles I had laying around the house, we went to the local Target and bought some pool noodles and also dropped by a convenience store and picked up all their newspapers (Thursday editions aren't nearly as big as Sunday's) as well.
Pool noodles. It's hilarious to watch inexperienced people cut pool noodles. I remembered just how bad I was at it when I first started. Most don't think that they'd be as difficult to cut as they are. With pool noodles, I had an 80% success rate. Shaving off thinner slices, and when the noodle got shorter, were still difficult for me.
Soaked quadruple Thursday newspapers proved to be a problem for my friends, and they were not able to cut through with a single swing at all. I didn't want to be rude, so I purposely failed some of my cuts. But on the cuts I did actually try on for review purposes, I was able to succeed on about half of them. The "shock" feeling with this 26-A wasn't felt as much as when I cut with my 29-II.
Conclusions
Once again, Kris Cutlery delivers. The fit and finish of the sword is great, the sword handles amazingly. Some have commented on the sharpness of Kris Cutlery blades being sub-par in the past. I think they may have read those reviews and posts, and fixed them this batch. Or perhaps this batch was just better, because the smiths are getting better with more and more practice and experience?
Had I not been the third person in line to cut with this sword (she and her boyfriend who is my best friend cut with it before me), I would have thought some of the cutting ability of the sword would be accredited to me getting better with my technique. We had so much fun cutting with this sword, after we killed all the beach mats I pre-soaked, we went to the local convenience store and bought all of their newspapers, then went to the local Target and bought 20 pool noodles.
This 26-A definitely cut better than my 29-II. It could be because this batch was sharpened better, or the fact that the A-Types have no bo-hi, maybe there isn't as much niku? One can never tell what factors were different with handmade swords, since every sword is going to be a little different, even when they're the same model.
Pros
+ Handles like a dream.
+ Cuts both light and heavier targets well.
+ Great fit and finish.
+ Nice curve to the whole sword.
+ Geometric yokote
+ Three-faced mune.
+ Good amount of blade meat.
Cons
- Synthetic ito.
- Didn't kill a stingray to make it.
- Plain fittings.
- Unfinished saya.
- Saya rattle if you shake it hard (what sub-$500 katana doesn't?).
- Batches have varying levels of polish and sharpness.
The Bottom Line
The above "cons" are not cons to me, but I have to be fair to the people that read this, and make sure they know what they're going to get. So I listed what I think most people would consider "cons." I personally don't think that having a rayskin alternative is a bad thing, and while these fittings are plain, they fit better than most fancy fittings. I also like the uniqueness of seeing the wood grain on the saya over your basic black piano saya (for this katana, some katanas look really good with a piano black saya).
As before with my Kris Cutlery 29-II review, I would not recommend this sword to a person who is obsessed with "traditional" katanas. Those people shouldn't be buying katanas in this price range... or even in the $2K range, because they aren't the real traditional katanas they base their Kris Cutlery bashing on either. So no, this katana isn't for a wannabe prude "traditionalist." A real traditionalist wouldn't even consider a non-nihonto after all.
I would recommend this katana to a person who wants a quality blade and doesn't want to break the bank. For its price, you get a lot. Even though there are forges like Huawei out there giving you great bang for the buck as well, I would pick a KC 26-A over anything Huawei makes in the same price range. The 26-A might not be as shiny or fancy looking, but the way it looks and handles just feels right. There's a reason why this line has a following.
Rating: Five out of five stars.
Adjusted Rating: Four out of five stars. (This rating is for people who prefer "traditional" and "flashy" stuff, but still value a quality cutter.)
This sword beats my Kris Cutlery 29-II, and I love it almost as much as my Dynasty Forge O-Katana. I will get one from the next batch. I hope it will be as good as this particular 26-A.
Updated Information
10 November 2012
I like this sword so much, I ended up buying one for myself (as I planned to in the original review)!