Review: Kris Cutlery Katana 29-II (Updated 20 July 2012)
Jul 13, 2012 7:16:50 GMT
Post by Kuya on Jul 13, 2012 7:16:50 GMT
Same stuff as usual. Not so many pictures, since the other reviews of this line have tons of them. There's one in there in regards to something that other reviews have said, though. My introductions are long-ish, as they tell the story of how I come to acquire the swords I review. If you don't like that kind of stuff, skip it.
Introduction
I needed a "beater" more suited to my inability to use a taller thinner blade style that my Cheness SGC has. I also wanted one with bo-hi grooves, because I was told that the Tachi Kaze sound swords with bo-hi make help me know if my blade angle is correct when I swing (if you're in the know and have the time, please go here to help me with this aspect of training)... and I got addicted to the sound when I was test feeling the balance and weight of my Dynasty Forge O-Katana. I read several reviews by not-so-rich backyard cutters that were very positive about the Kris Cutlery line of Katanas. I also saw all sorts of incredibly beautiful custom work done on them. The unique shape and geometry, reputation for being a good and durable cutter, and low price of the Kris Cutlery line won me over.
I originally ordered a 26-II, since the 26 seemed to be the one with the most popularity, but it turned out that someone bought the last one before I did, and they just hadn't updated the website. I was offered a "blemished" version with scratches on the saya, but that ended up being a 26-III that was sent to me. After clearing up that mistake, I was offered a "factory second" 29-A that had a "light drag along the saya when drawn," a 29-II with a "clicking sound in the tsuka," have a 26-A or 29-A reserved and sent to me when they came in in August 2012 (It's the second week of July 2012 as I write this), or get a refund. I wanted something with a bo-hi, and it was going to be months until the next batch of 26-IIs came in, so I went with the 29-II with the clicking tsuka. I planned on getting a new one custom made anyway, so I figured I could live with this defective one for now. Because I bought it as a "factory second" and knowing of the defect, I will not be taking it into account for the review and rating. The tsuka of the 26-III that was sent to me had no issues, and neither did the one of the 29-A I was allowed to sample when picking up this sword.
I didn't want to deal with shipping the 26-III back, and then waiting for the 29-II to come. Since was going to be in the next town over from where Kris Cultery's owner (Cecil) was for the day, I just arranged to pick it up on the way home. I arrived at a touch after 5:00 PM, and left at almost 8:00 PM with the 29-II, a bokken, and a full stomach. It was an enjoyable time, chatting about swords, forms, travel, food, and culture. Cecil is a rather friendly man, and the whole "down to earth" reputation he has among other forum members really fit.
Historical overview
I'm not an historian, so as per usual... I'm using quotes from other more well-read reviewers regarding the sword's historic significance and traits.
When I spoke with Cecil while picking the sword up from him directly, he said that he designed the sword using multiple historic influences, and input from Japanese swordsmen and collectors.
Full Disclosure
I'm still somewhat of a rookie to the whole "functional sword scene." I'm not a traditionalist, so I might not give strikes for things that may not follow old katana traditions. Some things, like someone selling a katana with a straight blade, I'd give a strike against. Then again, I wouldn't buy something like that so I wouldn't have one to review anyway.
As I stated in the introduction, a big part of why I chose to get this sword because of the reviews I read from "not-so-rich backyard cutters." I feel that I currently identify with that type of enthusiast the most. I'm not some rich guy who "has owned and sold over 100 katanas," nor am I one of those guys who works with sword companies and vendors to have "handled of katanas." Please take my review with many grains of salt (or sugar and spice), as my personal taste and consumer morality differs from the veteran expert sword enthusiasts. When in doubt or if I have conflicting views compared to them, listen to them over me. They know what they're talking about.
Initial Impressions
Kris Cutlery's customer service is well-regarded for good reason. It's very personal and they make you feel like you're patronage is important to them. When I first asked the forum what to do and expect when I got the wrong sword sent to me, I viewed the replies about how down to earth and honest Kris Cutlery's owners were with a little bit of skepticism. I learned that the skepticism was misplaced, and the customer service lived up to what everyone said.
The first things most people would notice upon getting the sword are the shape and saya. The shape is really nice. The way the handle curves along with the rest of the sword and makes it so that the center of the curve is the actual (or close to) center of the sword. The saya has a "natural" type finish, where you see the wood grain, a much appreciated deviation from the standard black or mono-colored sayas.
Statistics
Name: Kris Cutlery 29-II Katana
Steel: 5160 Carbon Steel (Differentially Hardened)
Bo-Hi: Yes
Blade Length: 29" (73.7 cm)
Blade Height: 1.2 - 0.9" (30 - 23 mm)
Blade Thickness: 0.20 - 0.15" (5 - 4 mm)
Weight: 2 lbs, 6 oz (1.1 kg)
Balance Point: 6.1" (15.5 cm)
Tsuka: 11" (28 cm)
Tsuba: 3" (7.6 cm)
I found it strange that the height and thickness measurements for this 29-II were very close to Frankthebunny's measurements for his 26-II. Given that a tape measure and human eye (what I'm assuming we both used) isn't as accurate as a digital caliper, the measurements took were close.
The weight was taken by using two digital bathroom scales. Both weighed the sword in at 2.4 lbs two times on each scale, and at 1.10 kg two times on each scale. The scales were capable of measuring to 0.1 lbs or 50 g. Other reviews on the Kris Cutlery 26-A/III models list their weights at 2.6 lbs, so this sword's weight being less despite being 3" longer was a nice surprise. Looks like the bo-hi did its job.
I'm a little upset that the balance point is so far out. I shouldn't be, since the Kris Cutlery website lists the Katana 29 series at around 6" (15.2 cm), but I figured with the bo-hi, it would move in toward the handle a bit. I guess that since the bo-hi goes past the habaki collar and into the nakago tang, it keeps the balance from going back further.
The Blade/Nagasa
The blade has a deeper curve than most "normal" katanas. One of the big things that other reviews point out is the "geometric yokote" where the kissaki tip is. As this is my first sword that has one, it felt pretty different when cleaning and oiling it down. The bo-hi goes into the nakago tang, and takes up the entirety of where the shinogi-ji plane would be. The way it's shaped is different than the bo-hi my Dynasty Forge O-Katana has. Rather than a "U/C" shape, it's more like a "J." shape. It dips in at the shinogi line, but barely comes back out as it goes to the "mune line." The termination of hte bo-hi is soft and rounded.
Another different and "non-standard" feature of the blade is that it has a three-faced spine ("mitsu-mune"). It's different and neat to look at, but I don't know if it gives any special benefit to the physics and geometry of how the blade works at cutting.
Other reviews on the KC 26/29 models have commented on the polish being rough or low-end. I disagree. For a sword of this price, purpose, and capability, the polish "out of the box" is very good. Perhaps Kris Cutlery had the forge polish the batch this blade was from better? I am putting up pictures comparing the polishing compared to the polishing I did on an old sword of mine.
It's not quite as mirror-like, but it's far from "low" or "rough." The second sword pictured is one I took all the way down to 3,000 grit and used metal glow. The 29-II only had its oil wiped off. The "grain" of the was even more uniform than mine (probably used longer strokes and a bigger sanding surface), and the kissaki's "counter polish" is incredibly clean.
The habaki collar for the blade isn't your normal brass offering, it's a polished steel that flows with and goes REALLY well with the blade. It's different, yes, but it's good!
The Handle/Tsuka
I'll get the big thing most people mention out of the way first. It doesn't use "ray skin." I don't care. It's under the ito wrap, people can't see or tell the difference from ten meters away. Bumpy texture, sandy texture, or this cross-hatched texture, it all works to give a friction based surface. If I wanted a "traditional" sword and was going to sweat over ray skin, I would be getting a sword with a very nontraditional blade made from 5160 steel by Filipinos.
The tsuka handle has a taper from the tsuba guard down to the kashira cap. I like it, as it mirrors the way the blade also tapers from the tsuba guard to kissaki tip, albeit in not as long a fashion.
The ito wrap is a synthetic brown cloth, and it has the alternating pattern. People tend to not like it when the ito is made of synthetic meterial, but I'm liking it more than cotton. Sure, it's not as good as something like silk, but the depth of the color and luster of the material is far more aesthetically pleasing than what you get from most cotton.
The fuchi collar and kashira cap are plain with no designs. They're made from black iron and I think they've been polished. They're a lot shinier and smoother feeling than the (also plain) black iron fittings of my Cheness SGC Katana. The menuki are your standard brass twin dragons that Kris Cutlery uses. The brass isn't super shiny, so they doesn't glare at you from under the ito wrap.
The Guard/Tsuba
Like the tsuka handle end fittings, the tsuba guard is made from a well-polished black iron. It too is rather plain with only two circles of differing size on the mune spine side. I really like the fact that it doesn't have those oval/kidney holes on either side of the blade. The edges are rounded off very well and match the smooth polished surface as the "faces."
The seppa spacers are also different in that they don't have the "coin" or "gear" edges, and have a very smooth finish too. The size and fit of the seppa spacers are just a little bigger than the size of the fuchi collar, so when viewed from the "bottom" handle side, it looks like a solar eclipse (an oval one).
The Scabbard/Saya
I love the saya. The natural wood grain showing is very appealing and a nice break from the normal back or mono-colored saya we're all used to. The way it feels in my hands when I'm carrying the sword is also different and more pleasant than most other saya. I wondered what about it made it feel different, and I found that it's because the saya is oval shaped while most other saya are "egg shaped." The shape of the saya mimicked the oval shape of tsukas, so it felt like a (thicker) handle in a way. There's no rattle when I shake the sword, and the fittings are shiny and black, like the fittings on the tsuka handle.
Handling Characteristics
Balance-wise, it feels good to swing, but it doesn't feel as graceful and easy to change direction as my Dynasty Forge O-Katana. I'm puzzled by this, because the Kris Cultery Katana 29-II is lighter and has a closer point of balance. Perhaps it's because the extra inch of tsuka handle space on the O-Katana lets me space my hands for a better personal feel? The Tachi Kaze sound isn't as loud or easy to make as with the Dynasty Forge sword, but I'm told that's because it has a more gently sloped bo-hi. Thanks to the light weight, recovery from a swing is easy and comfortable. It makes me wonder just how much lighter a 26-II would feel.
Test Cutting
As a rookie that still has a lot of room to improve when it comes to cutting form, this sword is wonderful. I was able to actually keep a 2-liter bottle and a gallon milk jug on the cutting stand with this sword, as opposed to everything calling off (albeit in two pieces) with my SGC Katana. Against the pool noodle, I felt like a pro. Maybe because it's sharper, lighter, thinner, and/or has more of a curve, but I can cut better with it. To make sure it wasn't just my form improving with experience, I cut some bottles and a pool noodle with the SGC as well. While I am able to cut better than I used to, I still couldn't get any of the bottles to stay on the stand, nor could I make as many cuts further down the pool noodle before knocking the stand over from the noodle dragging it along with the force of my cut.
Conclusions
I can see why Kris Cutlery's 26/29 lines have earned an almost cult-like following. The swords are good, and the customer care is brilliant. The sword has so many different and unique features compared to all the run-of-the-mill katanas out there. Sure, there are some that have unique features too, but these models have multiple features that make them stand out more...nd that's in addition to them performing well!
I would be happier if the bo-hi groove ended in a slant to match the look of the kissaki tip like on some other katanas, but that's a matter of personal aesthetics.
The common complaints about the quality of the fittings are puzzling to me. The iron tsuba guard and tsuka handle fittings feel like their made from high quality iron, and are clean without any sign of casting marks. When I commented to Cecil about that, he said that it's because they aren't cast from molds, but shaped and welded together. If that's true... for this price range, that's kinda crazy. The habaki blade collar is awesome. I already commented on it, but the way it blends with the blade is a really nice artistic touch. I think the mistake that those people who complain about the fittings being low quality are confusing quality with "flash" and aesthetics.
And as far as aesthetics, in this price range, even though they're "plain," they're good. The polish and luster of the blade along with the matching luster of the black fittings have a matching smooth, fluid "wet" look. Like a high quality pain job on a show car. Also, I have absolutely no idea how others can put down the "polish" on the sword. My sword was smooth, shiny, and the kissaki had as fine a grain on the counter-polish as the rest of the blade. When I turn the sword 90-degrees and set the angle of the kissaki's plane to the light the same way the blade's ji was at, it reflects the light the same way. For me, this sword has that weird "Plain Jane that's still really attractive" conundrum going for it (much like Olivia Dunham from "Fringe").
I'm very glad that some SBG members pointed me in the direction of this sword. I got to meet a nice person and acquire a quality product.
Pros
+ Quality construction.
+ Several features to make it stand out from the crowd.
+ Good track record.
+ Forgiving to those with less than perfect technique.
+ Bang for the buck.
Cons
- Traditionalists won't like it.
- The masses won't like its "Plain Jane" looks.
The Bottom Line
If you want to have fun cutting things without having to spend a fortune, get one. If you want to customize something that doesn't look like everything else out there and make it yours, get one. If you're into flamboyancy and flash, don't get one. If you're into "traditional" stuff, don't get one... don't get any production katana at all for that matter.
Rating: 4 out of 5 stars.
Updated Information
16 July 2012
I did some test cutting today alongside my Cheness SGC Katana. For those who haven't read that review, I will describe the targets used first, then the results. If you already saw that other review and know the targets and their formation, then skip the next paragraph to get to the results.
Test cut some targets heavier than my standard plastic drink bottles and pool noodles. I purchased several copies of the Sunday New York Times, unfolded them and the advertisements, and rolled each copy with its respective advertising bundles into even vertical rolls. After soaking them for half an hour, they were put on the cutting stand and swung at. Some beach mats were also sourced and rolled up (70" X 35" rolled along the 70" side to be 35" tall rolls). These were soaked for eight hours before being put to the sword. These targets wer not as dense or heavy as the soaked "Sunday Times." Unsoaked beach mats were attempted as well due to my desire to cut more stuff before the sun went down.
Against the soaked rolls of the Sunday New York Times, the KC 29-II did not fare as well as the SGC Katana. While the Cheness cut through smoothly with no problem, the 29-II felt like it had to struggle through on the cuts that did make it through. And when looking at the cut result, there were some signs of crumpling. On some cuts, the sword didn't make it through the whole way. Every cut had a bit of "shock" felt, as if something very solid and heavy was hit, through the 29-II. The SGC Katana felt solid and shock-free when cutting through the soaked newspaper rolls.
With the soaked beach mats, the KC 29-II did very well. All cuts were successful and smooth. The speed and balance of teh 29-II is quite nice.While I didn't succeed in any "double cuts," I did manage to slice through and hit the loose piece of the mat on a second swing before it fell away. It didn't cut through, but with this sword I was actually able to change direction fast enough to get a second (albeit ineffective) strike in. The dry beach mats were the opposite of the soaked newspaper rolls. Fast, clean, and easy cuts were made against these lighter targets.
Overall the 29-II performed well, despite my rookie cutting skill. While not very good against heavy and dense targets for me, it sailed through the lighter targets, and felt very fast and agile.
20 July 2012
Had more cutting fun and exhausted my supply of beach mats with all three of my swords. Here's the update for the KC 29-II.
As posted on my other swords' review updates, I tried to push my luck with double and triple beach mat rolls. The 29-II did better than I thought it would, which is a nice surprise. Against the double rolls there was little "shock" and all cuts went right through. On the triple roll, I felt some prominent shock. It wasn't on the level of the soaked Sunday New Yorke Times, but it was there. I was expecting this one to fail badly against the triple roll, but it only didn't make it through with one cut, and the stand only fell over twice (one of the times was on the same cut as the failure) from the force and drag of the blade through the roll.
Despite it not having a 100% success rate like the Dynasty Forge O-Katana, I enjoyed wielding this sword just as much. It's really well balanced and strong. I also have to worry less about accidentally scraping the tip on the ground since it's (relatively) shorter. I keep wondering that if this sword is this balanced and feels this good to swing, those with the Kris Cutlery 26s, must really enjoy cutting with theirs.
Introduction
I needed a "beater" more suited to my inability to use a taller thinner blade style that my Cheness SGC has. I also wanted one with bo-hi grooves, because I was told that the Tachi Kaze sound swords with bo-hi make help me know if my blade angle is correct when I swing (if you're in the know and have the time, please go here to help me with this aspect of training)... and I got addicted to the sound when I was test feeling the balance and weight of my Dynasty Forge O-Katana. I read several reviews by not-so-rich backyard cutters that were very positive about the Kris Cutlery line of Katanas. I also saw all sorts of incredibly beautiful custom work done on them. The unique shape and geometry, reputation for being a good and durable cutter, and low price of the Kris Cutlery line won me over.
I originally ordered a 26-II, since the 26 seemed to be the one with the most popularity, but it turned out that someone bought the last one before I did, and they just hadn't updated the website. I was offered a "blemished" version with scratches on the saya, but that ended up being a 26-III that was sent to me. After clearing up that mistake, I was offered a "factory second" 29-A that had a "light drag along the saya when drawn," a 29-II with a "clicking sound in the tsuka," have a 26-A or 29-A reserved and sent to me when they came in in August 2012 (It's the second week of July 2012 as I write this), or get a refund. I wanted something with a bo-hi, and it was going to be months until the next batch of 26-IIs came in, so I went with the 29-II with the clicking tsuka. I planned on getting a new one custom made anyway, so I figured I could live with this defective one for now. Because I bought it as a "factory second" and knowing of the defect, I will not be taking it into account for the review and rating. The tsuka of the 26-III that was sent to me had no issues, and neither did the one of the 29-A I was allowed to sample when picking up this sword.
I didn't want to deal with shipping the 26-III back, and then waiting for the 29-II to come. Since was going to be in the next town over from where Kris Cultery's owner (Cecil) was for the day, I just arranged to pick it up on the way home. I arrived at a touch after 5:00 PM, and left at almost 8:00 PM with the 29-II, a bokken, and a full stomach. It was an enjoyable time, chatting about swords, forms, travel, food, and culture. Cecil is a rather friendly man, and the whole "down to earth" reputation he has among other forum members really fit.
Historical overview
I'm not an historian, so as per usual... I'm using quotes from other more well-read reviewers regarding the sword's historic significance and traits.
Frankthebunny wrote
I don't believe there is any particular historical example this model is based on and seems to
have elements from different time periods, regions and schools of sword smithing.
the Koshi-Zori is seen a lot in swords made by the schools of the Bizen region.
there almost seems to be Fumbari although not as large or obvious as most antique examples
so it might not qualify. it also reminds me of a Tachi that has been cut down(sorry, I forgot the
term..Uchigatana?) I'm not sure if the cylindrical Saya has any historical background but I've
read that the rounded or oval kojiri does.
I don't believe there is any particular historical example this model is based on and seems to
have elements from different time periods, regions and schools of sword smithing.
the Koshi-Zori is seen a lot in swords made by the schools of the Bizen region.
there almost seems to be Fumbari although not as large or obvious as most antique examples
so it might not qualify. it also reminds me of a Tachi that has been cut down(sorry, I forgot the
term..Uchigatana?) I'm not sure if the cylindrical Saya has any historical background but I've
read that the rounded or oval kojiri does.
adrian.jordan wrote
The blade is done in a Shinogi Zukuri style, the exact origins of which are not known to me. The blade itself is modeled after a sword from, I believe, the 14th century, according to Cecil.
The blade is done in a Shinogi Zukuri style, the exact origins of which are not known to me. The blade itself is modeled after a sword from, I believe, the 14th century, according to Cecil.
When I spoke with Cecil while picking the sword up from him directly, he said that he designed the sword using multiple historic influences, and input from Japanese swordsmen and collectors.
Full Disclosure
I'm still somewhat of a rookie to the whole "functional sword scene." I'm not a traditionalist, so I might not give strikes for things that may not follow old katana traditions. Some things, like someone selling a katana with a straight blade, I'd give a strike against. Then again, I wouldn't buy something like that so I wouldn't have one to review anyway.
As I stated in the introduction, a big part of why I chose to get this sword because of the reviews I read from "not-so-rich backyard cutters." I feel that I currently identify with that type of enthusiast the most. I'm not some rich guy who "has owned and sold over 100 katanas," nor am I one of those guys who works with sword companies and vendors to have "handled of katanas." Please take my review with many grains of salt (or sugar and spice), as my personal taste and consumer morality differs from the veteran expert sword enthusiasts. When in doubt or if I have conflicting views compared to them, listen to them over me. They know what they're talking about.
Initial Impressions
Kris Cutlery's customer service is well-regarded for good reason. It's very personal and they make you feel like you're patronage is important to them. When I first asked the forum what to do and expect when I got the wrong sword sent to me, I viewed the replies about how down to earth and honest Kris Cutlery's owners were with a little bit of skepticism. I learned that the skepticism was misplaced, and the customer service lived up to what everyone said.
The first things most people would notice upon getting the sword are the shape and saya. The shape is really nice. The way the handle curves along with the rest of the sword and makes it so that the center of the curve is the actual (or close to) center of the sword. The saya has a "natural" type finish, where you see the wood grain, a much appreciated deviation from the standard black or mono-colored sayas.
Statistics
Name: Kris Cutlery 29-II Katana
Steel: 5160 Carbon Steel (Differentially Hardened)
Bo-Hi: Yes
Blade Length: 29" (73.7 cm)
Blade Height: 1.2 - 0.9" (30 - 23 mm)
Blade Thickness: 0.20 - 0.15" (5 - 4 mm)
Weight: 2 lbs, 6 oz (1.1 kg)
Balance Point: 6.1" (15.5 cm)
Tsuka: 11" (28 cm)
Tsuba: 3" (7.6 cm)
I found it strange that the height and thickness measurements for this 29-II were very close to Frankthebunny's measurements for his 26-II. Given that a tape measure and human eye (what I'm assuming we both used) isn't as accurate as a digital caliper, the measurements took were close.
The weight was taken by using two digital bathroom scales. Both weighed the sword in at 2.4 lbs two times on each scale, and at 1.10 kg two times on each scale. The scales were capable of measuring to 0.1 lbs or 50 g. Other reviews on the Kris Cutlery 26-A/III models list their weights at 2.6 lbs, so this sword's weight being less despite being 3" longer was a nice surprise. Looks like the bo-hi did its job.
I'm a little upset that the balance point is so far out. I shouldn't be, since the Kris Cutlery website lists the Katana 29 series at around 6" (15.2 cm), but I figured with the bo-hi, it would move in toward the handle a bit. I guess that since the bo-hi goes past the habaki collar and into the nakago tang, it keeps the balance from going back further.
The Blade/Nagasa
The blade has a deeper curve than most "normal" katanas. One of the big things that other reviews point out is the "geometric yokote" where the kissaki tip is. As this is my first sword that has one, it felt pretty different when cleaning and oiling it down. The bo-hi goes into the nakago tang, and takes up the entirety of where the shinogi-ji plane would be. The way it's shaped is different than the bo-hi my Dynasty Forge O-Katana has. Rather than a "U/C" shape, it's more like a "J." shape. It dips in at the shinogi line, but barely comes back out as it goes to the "mune line." The termination of hte bo-hi is soft and rounded.
Another different and "non-standard" feature of the blade is that it has a three-faced spine ("mitsu-mune"). It's different and neat to look at, but I don't know if it gives any special benefit to the physics and geometry of how the blade works at cutting.
Other reviews on the KC 26/29 models have commented on the polish being rough or low-end. I disagree. For a sword of this price, purpose, and capability, the polish "out of the box" is very good. Perhaps Kris Cutlery had the forge polish the batch this blade was from better? I am putting up pictures comparing the polishing compared to the polishing I did on an old sword of mine.
It's not quite as mirror-like, but it's far from "low" or "rough." The second sword pictured is one I took all the way down to 3,000 grit and used metal glow. The 29-II only had its oil wiped off. The "grain" of the was even more uniform than mine (probably used longer strokes and a bigger sanding surface), and the kissaki's "counter polish" is incredibly clean.
The habaki collar for the blade isn't your normal brass offering, it's a polished steel that flows with and goes REALLY well with the blade. It's different, yes, but it's good!
The Handle/Tsuka
I'll get the big thing most people mention out of the way first. It doesn't use "ray skin." I don't care. It's under the ito wrap, people can't see or tell the difference from ten meters away. Bumpy texture, sandy texture, or this cross-hatched texture, it all works to give a friction based surface. If I wanted a "traditional" sword and was going to sweat over ray skin, I would be getting a sword with a very nontraditional blade made from 5160 steel by Filipinos.
The tsuka handle has a taper from the tsuba guard down to the kashira cap. I like it, as it mirrors the way the blade also tapers from the tsuba guard to kissaki tip, albeit in not as long a fashion.
The ito wrap is a synthetic brown cloth, and it has the alternating pattern. People tend to not like it when the ito is made of synthetic meterial, but I'm liking it more than cotton. Sure, it's not as good as something like silk, but the depth of the color and luster of the material is far more aesthetically pleasing than what you get from most cotton.
The fuchi collar and kashira cap are plain with no designs. They're made from black iron and I think they've been polished. They're a lot shinier and smoother feeling than the (also plain) black iron fittings of my Cheness SGC Katana. The menuki are your standard brass twin dragons that Kris Cutlery uses. The brass isn't super shiny, so they doesn't glare at you from under the ito wrap.
The Guard/Tsuba
Like the tsuka handle end fittings, the tsuba guard is made from a well-polished black iron. It too is rather plain with only two circles of differing size on the mune spine side. I really like the fact that it doesn't have those oval/kidney holes on either side of the blade. The edges are rounded off very well and match the smooth polished surface as the "faces."
The seppa spacers are also different in that they don't have the "coin" or "gear" edges, and have a very smooth finish too. The size and fit of the seppa spacers are just a little bigger than the size of the fuchi collar, so when viewed from the "bottom" handle side, it looks like a solar eclipse (an oval one).
The Scabbard/Saya
I love the saya. The natural wood grain showing is very appealing and a nice break from the normal back or mono-colored saya we're all used to. The way it feels in my hands when I'm carrying the sword is also different and more pleasant than most other saya. I wondered what about it made it feel different, and I found that it's because the saya is oval shaped while most other saya are "egg shaped." The shape of the saya mimicked the oval shape of tsukas, so it felt like a (thicker) handle in a way. There's no rattle when I shake the sword, and the fittings are shiny and black, like the fittings on the tsuka handle.
Handling Characteristics
Balance-wise, it feels good to swing, but it doesn't feel as graceful and easy to change direction as my Dynasty Forge O-Katana. I'm puzzled by this, because the Kris Cultery Katana 29-II is lighter and has a closer point of balance. Perhaps it's because the extra inch of tsuka handle space on the O-Katana lets me space my hands for a better personal feel? The Tachi Kaze sound isn't as loud or easy to make as with the Dynasty Forge sword, but I'm told that's because it has a more gently sloped bo-hi. Thanks to the light weight, recovery from a swing is easy and comfortable. It makes me wonder just how much lighter a 26-II would feel.
Test Cutting
As a rookie that still has a lot of room to improve when it comes to cutting form, this sword is wonderful. I was able to actually keep a 2-liter bottle and a gallon milk jug on the cutting stand with this sword, as opposed to everything calling off (albeit in two pieces) with my SGC Katana. Against the pool noodle, I felt like a pro. Maybe because it's sharper, lighter, thinner, and/or has more of a curve, but I can cut better with it. To make sure it wasn't just my form improving with experience, I cut some bottles and a pool noodle with the SGC as well. While I am able to cut better than I used to, I still couldn't get any of the bottles to stay on the stand, nor could I make as many cuts further down the pool noodle before knocking the stand over from the noodle dragging it along with the force of my cut.
Conclusions
I can see why Kris Cutlery's 26/29 lines have earned an almost cult-like following. The swords are good, and the customer care is brilliant. The sword has so many different and unique features compared to all the run-of-the-mill katanas out there. Sure, there are some that have unique features too, but these models have multiple features that make them stand out more...nd that's in addition to them performing well!
I would be happier if the bo-hi groove ended in a slant to match the look of the kissaki tip like on some other katanas, but that's a matter of personal aesthetics.
The common complaints about the quality of the fittings are puzzling to me. The iron tsuba guard and tsuka handle fittings feel like their made from high quality iron, and are clean without any sign of casting marks. When I commented to Cecil about that, he said that it's because they aren't cast from molds, but shaped and welded together. If that's true... for this price range, that's kinda crazy. The habaki blade collar is awesome. I already commented on it, but the way it blends with the blade is a really nice artistic touch. I think the mistake that those people who complain about the fittings being low quality are confusing quality with "flash" and aesthetics.
And as far as aesthetics, in this price range, even though they're "plain," they're good. The polish and luster of the blade along with the matching luster of the black fittings have a matching smooth, fluid "wet" look. Like a high quality pain job on a show car. Also, I have absolutely no idea how others can put down the "polish" on the sword. My sword was smooth, shiny, and the kissaki had as fine a grain on the counter-polish as the rest of the blade. When I turn the sword 90-degrees and set the angle of the kissaki's plane to the light the same way the blade's ji was at, it reflects the light the same way. For me, this sword has that weird "Plain Jane that's still really attractive" conundrum going for it (much like Olivia Dunham from "Fringe").
I'm very glad that some SBG members pointed me in the direction of this sword. I got to meet a nice person and acquire a quality product.
Pros
+ Quality construction.
+ Several features to make it stand out from the crowd.
+ Good track record.
+ Forgiving to those with less than perfect technique.
+ Bang for the buck.
Cons
- Traditionalists won't like it.
- The masses won't like its "Plain Jane" looks.
The Bottom Line
If you want to have fun cutting things without having to spend a fortune, get one. If you want to customize something that doesn't look like everything else out there and make it yours, get one. If you're into flamboyancy and flash, don't get one. If you're into "traditional" stuff, don't get one... don't get any production katana at all for that matter.
Rating: 4 out of 5 stars.
Updated Information
16 July 2012
I did some test cutting today alongside my Cheness SGC Katana. For those who haven't read that review, I will describe the targets used first, then the results. If you already saw that other review and know the targets and their formation, then skip the next paragraph to get to the results.
Test cut some targets heavier than my standard plastic drink bottles and pool noodles. I purchased several copies of the Sunday New York Times, unfolded them and the advertisements, and rolled each copy with its respective advertising bundles into even vertical rolls. After soaking them for half an hour, they were put on the cutting stand and swung at. Some beach mats were also sourced and rolled up (70" X 35" rolled along the 70" side to be 35" tall rolls). These were soaked for eight hours before being put to the sword. These targets wer not as dense or heavy as the soaked "Sunday Times." Unsoaked beach mats were attempted as well due to my desire to cut more stuff before the sun went down.
Against the soaked rolls of the Sunday New York Times, the KC 29-II did not fare as well as the SGC Katana. While the Cheness cut through smoothly with no problem, the 29-II felt like it had to struggle through on the cuts that did make it through. And when looking at the cut result, there were some signs of crumpling. On some cuts, the sword didn't make it through the whole way. Every cut had a bit of "shock" felt, as if something very solid and heavy was hit, through the 29-II. The SGC Katana felt solid and shock-free when cutting through the soaked newspaper rolls.
With the soaked beach mats, the KC 29-II did very well. All cuts were successful and smooth. The speed and balance of teh 29-II is quite nice.While I didn't succeed in any "double cuts," I did manage to slice through and hit the loose piece of the mat on a second swing before it fell away. It didn't cut through, but with this sword I was actually able to change direction fast enough to get a second (albeit ineffective) strike in. The dry beach mats were the opposite of the soaked newspaper rolls. Fast, clean, and easy cuts were made against these lighter targets.
Overall the 29-II performed well, despite my rookie cutting skill. While not very good against heavy and dense targets for me, it sailed through the lighter targets, and felt very fast and agile.
20 July 2012
Had more cutting fun and exhausted my supply of beach mats with all three of my swords. Here's the update for the KC 29-II.
As posted on my other swords' review updates, I tried to push my luck with double and triple beach mat rolls. The 29-II did better than I thought it would, which is a nice surprise. Against the double rolls there was little "shock" and all cuts went right through. On the triple roll, I felt some prominent shock. It wasn't on the level of the soaked Sunday New Yorke Times, but it was there. I was expecting this one to fail badly against the triple roll, but it only didn't make it through with one cut, and the stand only fell over twice (one of the times was on the same cut as the failure) from the force and drag of the blade through the roll.
Despite it not having a 100% success rate like the Dynasty Forge O-Katana, I enjoyed wielding this sword just as much. It's really well balanced and strong. I also have to worry less about accidentally scraping the tip on the ground since it's (relatively) shorter. I keep wondering that if this sword is this balanced and feels this good to swing, those with the Kris Cutlery 26s, must really enjoy cutting with theirs.