So, with everything ordered, as I sit here waiting for my bow to show up (which it probably won't till sometime later this week), I wonder how to pick appropriate weight arrows to shoot with the best accuracy for the bow I have coming.
62 inch recurve #35 draw
still not quite sure what the draw distance would be.
I read somewhere that 600 grain is what i'm looking for? but how does this factor into the weight of the arrowhead, shaft, etc...
being such a user-specific thing, i've got this sinking suspicion that I should just head to a hunting store or something and bring my bow to fit arrows to it, unless you guys have thoughts to the contrary?
I'm planning on getting high grade carbon arrows for hunting and lower grade fiberglass, wood, or aluminum for practice arrows so i don't ding up my nice hunting arrows on flubbed shots or potentially unpleasant impacts into stumps.
Post by Lobster Hunter on Mar 26, 2012 20:28:07 GMT
Hook the end of a a tape measure and draw it as if you're shooting a bow. Draw it to about where your mouth is. It comes out around 31" for me. That should give you an idea of how long your arrow shaft should be. I'm not sure about how important the overall weight of the arrows is but one thing you want to pay attention to is how flexible the shaft is. This factor is referred to as "spine". If it's too stiff, it'll tend to veer left, if too flexible, right. For your 35# draw weight bow, you want arrows spined for 35#.
Use uncut arrow shafts, draw, anchor correctly where you would hold the arrow, and mark where it sits infront of the arrow rest. Depending on the rest, you add enough arrow length to accomodate the point or a broadhead blade for hunting. I wouldn't practice with one set of arrows made of one materual, and hunt with another set nmade of something else, they will perform differently, practise with what you wull hunt with. Best to go into a shop where they will correctly measure your draw length, and unless your draw length is the standard they test their bows at, the draw weught will vary, higher for a longer draw, lower for a shorter draw. To get the right arrows, you will need to know: 1. your precise draw length - you need two people to do this properly. 2. your precise draw weight for your draw length - the archery shops have bow scales which make this very easy. Once you have these two, and you decide what weight point or arrowheads you wish to use, it's a matter of looking up the manufacturer's table and the correctly spined arrow will be listed.
Also, the size, shape ann material of the fletchings on your arrows (the vanes or feathers) will be determined by your arrow rest, and whether you will be using broadheads or not. Longer fletches are usually required to stabilise broadheads, and tab arrow rests or shooting off the shelf will usually require feathers.
Wood arrows are highly variable and are very hard to shoot consistently, even if you match them for weight, which is a real pain. Most people only use wood if doing some form of historical archery.
The weight in grain of an arrow (a complete arrow with point) must be above 5grains per pound of maximum draw weight. The best compromise between speed, penetration and noise is an arrow that weighs between 6.5 and 7 grains per pound of maximum draw weight.
So, if you really do have a #35 draw (only if you have a standard draw length of 28"), and with the International Bowhunting Organization (IBO) which sets a 5 grains per pound standard, then your absolute minimum arrow weight will 35 x 5 = 175 grains which is unrealistically low.
It's best to just go into an archery shop to get them to do the fitting of arrows for you, they'll give you good advice, and it costs nothing because you need to buy the arrows from somewhere anyway!
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