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Post by chrisperoni on Mar 24, 2012 16:18:06 GMT
(edit/add- made a new post of more fixes- first the strap, now some styling of the quiver) ... to replace the one I lent to a friend of a friend and never saw again. Just didn't feel like paying for one this time so I used leftovers from other projects. It's nothing fancy but does serve it's purpose well. I'm thinking of making a shoulder strap for it- something that ties to the belt loop and wraps around to the base. I left the lace long for now until I decide if I'm adding any decoration to the ends. The leather is veg tanned split - it's rough grained and I really like how it takes dye and the texture of it when dyed and sealed looks beautiful imho.
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Post by ineffableone on Mar 24, 2012 18:00:39 GMT
Looks nice, very functional, though I would not want to walk about or run with that as it seems it would bounce about a bit being knocked by your knee. Good for target shooting but hunting you would want something else, or as you said a back strap.
I have been considering wading into making a quiver myself. After seeing a quiver I really liked online but flinching at the price of $500 for it. Now given it is a combo quiver that converts from side quiver to back quiver with over shoulder arrow removal or side arrow removal. I imagine it is worth the $500 but having done leather work myself think I could probably make one for about the same price or less.
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Post by chrisperoni on Mar 24, 2012 18:36:33 GMT
Way less to make it yourself I'd bet.
And yep this is best for stationary target practice. Walking is fine as long as it's on my side hip (like the middle pic of me wearing it) and not in front over my thigh. I could tie the bottom to my leg to help if running, or I could slide it around to my backside, but still, there is bounce. A backstrap would work well on this I think- the belt loop strap is long enough that I can have it just over my shoulder and then I figure a strap of leather looped through it and across my chest, coming around and looping around the bottom of the quiver would work. It would look kind of like the va zombie slayer baldric.
Also I can add two holes to the middle of the belt loop strap and thread a loop of lace through that, then tie down the arrows against it if need be. I've seen that before (or an elastic to to basically the same.
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Post by rvhernandez on Mar 24, 2012 18:58:21 GMT
Very nice! I'm impressed with your talent for throwing something together with project pieces. I would love to learn a little leather work myself for small projects. In case your interested, I came across this guy on E-Bay and bought the snake skin hip quiver: stores.ebay.com/Boggs-Leather-Go ... 4340.l2563 His store name is Boggs Leather and his stuff is awesome for the money. I love the quiver I bought and plan to buy another. He has several models he puts up and rotates around, so you can keep watching until you find one you like. Cheers...
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Post by chrisperoni on Mar 29, 2012 0:48:37 GMT
Yea\h that guys stuff is on a completely different level - total professional. I really like the colour in the one you linked to. My poor man quiver isn't fit to hold the broken arrows from that one lol And you should see the work of the guy ineffableone was talking about- www.hidehandler.com/back_quivers.htm look at the one called the combo hunter (don't worry about the links innef- it's cool )
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Post by chrisperoni on Mar 29, 2012 0:53:13 GMT
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Post by ineffableone on Mar 29, 2012 1:32:39 GMT
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Post by chrisperoni on Mar 29, 2012 1:36:39 GMT
good ideas! I was already thinking about doubling up the leather inside the bottom, for broadheads.
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Post by ineffableone on Mar 29, 2012 1:47:44 GMT
Typically quivers use foam inserts for broad head protection. Historically used fur/cloth/hay/grasses/etc
Foam insert also help quiet the arrows.
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Post by chrisperoni on Mar 31, 2012 22:08:56 GMT
I took Ineff's advice and dressing things up a bit. Added faux wolf fur- padded the bottom of the quiver and lined the top 4" of the mouth as well as the back of the belt loop/shoulder strap. I decided not to add fur behind the rest of the chest strap as it's already comfortable to wear and I think it would feel like wearing a fur coat if I did too much I also added extra leather to the mouth and some around the center. I do not have the right equipment to tool leather but I do have a soldering iron that came with extra tips for pyrography--- so I tried that out. It's definitely first-try-looking work lol, but what the heck, it's good enough for me for now. (it's kind of a leaf looking design, not intended to look like a pot leaf though :lol: but kinda came out that way) Last thing I did was add a loop of suede lace to the middle of the belt strap so I can tie down/separate arrows easily- say if I have a broken one or one with a certain point I want to keep from drawing by mistake. I guess I could strap down all the arrows if I wanted to- could be handy if I had to sprint a.o.a.s.. (in the one pic of the back I have brushed the fur over to show the corner. In fact it does lay evenly across the back)
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Post by rvhernandez on Mar 31, 2012 23:20:30 GMT
very cool...
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Greg
Senior Forumite
Posts: 1,800
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Post by Greg on Apr 1, 2012 0:36:00 GMT
Chris!
Ok, first I need to tell you how great the quiver looks. I would embellish more on this, but you've distracted me with a solution to one of my problems!
The "quick connect" device you have that looks like a peg and slot button is EXACTLY what I need to incorperate into my archer gauntlet. Right now I have the "lace up" method, but that takes forever to get on and off. Could you post a picture of how you have the back of the peg secured to the strap?
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Post by chrisperoni on Apr 1, 2012 0:55:25 GMT
It's basically an oversized button I shaped from a wood dowel. I figure it might eventually break since it's not even a hardwood- if so I'll redo it in metal or with scupley.
One sec on the pic...
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Post by chrisperoni on Apr 1, 2012 1:03:43 GMT
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Post by chrisperoni on Apr 1, 2012 4:34:42 GMT
I think I get you- the d rings pop over the knob then pull up so they are locked around the narrower bit, right?
Looks like just the right stuff if I replace what I have. For the time being I wanted to fasten everything without using any metal though- hence the lace and wood button. If I go to metal I'd kinda like to make something that has some kind of emblem on it- or can have a front piece emblem snapped onto it. Or sculpy with some design in it- but honestly those would only get made if this breaks. I did give it several coats of lacquer to stiffen it up a bit.
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Post by shoboshi on Apr 1, 2012 6:06:45 GMT
Excellent work Chris!
I built a quiver a number of years ago and I also put a loop into it to hold certain arrows out of the way. Put mine in the quiver itself though, as I wear my quiver tight so that it holds the arrows between my head and shoulder and I always know exactly where to reach. I wanted to hold all my extra arrows out of the way and keep them quiet when hunting, leaving only two in the quiver itself. One to nock and one for the follow up shot, if I got it.
Are you using alcohol based dye?
I really like what you have done with the fur and the accent details. Really makes a major difference. Well done. Imagine what the next one will be like.
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Post by chrisperoni on Apr 1, 2012 11:46:52 GMT
thanks! Yeah, it is alcohol based, with acrylic lacquer on top? What are you thinking- it might do something to the arrows?
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Post by shoboshi on Apr 1, 2012 15:03:33 GMT
Nope, not at all. The alcohol based dye is perfectly safe.
It's that I've had trouble getting an even coat with it on bigger projects like this unless I found a way to dip the whole piece. On your project, I think that is actually a positive. It gives an attractive rustic look to it.
An oil based dye will come out more even if you have a project that requires it someday, although, on something as big as a quiver, you may also have some minor issues with evenness. The key is in getting as much on as possible while the first coat is still wet.
You did a beautiful job.
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Post by chrisperoni on Apr 1, 2012 15:27:11 GMT
Your right about the unevenish look and yep I too like that in fact. That's part of why I buff a bit of saddlesoap in first- it resists the dye just slightly to enhance the rustic look as you pu it . On top of that this side split is not the most in uniform thickness and that causes the dye to soak in deeper in spots.
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Apr 1, 2012 16:05:56 GMT
AWESOME. nothing better than a nice peace of leatherwork. i could easily see those selling for 100-120$ you got skills mate, +1
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