So I just sold my old recurve bow because I wanted to get a bow in higher poundage because I was working with a 35# and it had become to easy now Im faced with a dilema I could spend another 350 and get the same re curve in 45 or 50# or Ive been really tempted to save money and get a cheaper longbow I.e. rudderbowsarchery.com/shopping/ ... q9dqln7cc4 but I was wondering if there is some serious differences moving from a re curve bow to a longbow that I should be aware of obviously it doesnt have much in the way of an arrow rest and Ive heard that longbows suffer in velocity compared to recurves I guess over all Im just asking if the adjustment will be difficult and if I will be as satisfied with a longbow :/ thanks for any advice
I've bought 2 bows from these guys, and I've loved both. Their 58" start at $36.00, 68" for $46.00. And they even have bows with arrow rests now! (Didn't have that option when I was ordering) So get whichever poundage you want and train with it for a bit, then upgrade again to a higher poundage and once you've decided where you wanna stay, then go get the recurve.
I haven't shot a recurve, so I can't comment about the velocity. But my 65# longbow sends the arrows to the target with great haste. I only have to aim 6" higher going from 15 yards to 30.
When I get some money, I'll probably downgrade to a 55# for casual shooting and break out the 65# for my archery parties.
I've said it before but Rudderbows make some absolutely gorgeous bows. I don't see any problem in investing more for a good quality bow. Lack of an arrow rest shouldn't be a problem as long as you aren't nocking your arrow too low or else you'll end up scratching your bow hand. You may find it strange at first but you should adapt quickly from recurve to longbow.
Courage in a man is good property, but skill with courage is better - Blackwell
I started out with a #45 recurve when I was young and moved to a #55 long bow when I got more serious. I didn't notice much difference other than getting used to the longer length. As long as you get something of quality, you should be fine.
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience is the result of poor judgement.
As a bowyer I can advise that alot depends on what the bow is made of, i.e. what kind of wood. If you are going with a glass bow, the differences are minimal since the cellular structure of the wood is no longer what is generating the stored and released energy. Recurves give you less sting follow, as a rule but adjusting brace height, arrow weight, tip weight, and other factors can be managed to balanced out on a longbow. They only way to tell is "shoot the bow" sometimes.
thank you everyone for your suggestions In the end I did end up choosing a re curve again and still saved some money I got this bow www.pse-archery.com/products/cat ... 1qJKvXlSSo after going to the archery store in town to get my check for my old bow I decided Id try some bows out and ended up being pretty darn happy with this one it shoots well I enjoy the takedown aspect for portability and although its not as gorgeous as my old one I still like it a lot and once Its draw gets on the easy side I'll upgrade again lol
Hairu wrote thank you everyone for your suggestions In the end I did end up choosing a re curve again and still saved some money I got this bow www.pse-archery.com/products/cat ... 1qJKvXlSSo after going to the archery store in town to get my check for my old bow I decided Id try some bows out and ended up being pretty darn happy with this one it shoots well I enjoy the takedown aspect for portability and although its not as gorgeous as my old one I still like it a lot and once Its draw gets on the easy side I'll upgrade again lol
Can you buy the different lbs limbs separate, instead of having to buy a total new bow? That is one of the things I liked about the Samick Sage, was you could just buy new limbs.
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