Review: Arms&Armor German Rapier
Mar 1, 2012 7:49:29 GMT
Post by Lunaman on Mar 1, 2012 7:49:29 GMT
Arms & Armor German Rapier
Zach Luna, Boulder CO
Introduction
I’ve always wanted a nice rapier. The swords feature prominently in the stories and legends that captured my heart as a child and continue to inspire me today. Tales ranging from the Three Musketeers to Hamlet to The Count of Monte Cristo to the Princess Bride to Capitan Alatriste all showcase the slim and deadly bladeform (sometimes rather inaccurately). But however unrealistically I might have seen the use of the weapon portrayed from time to time, the spirit of the sword was always clear: it was a dueling blade, worn at your side in civilian life, not just on the battlefield. To put the rapier to use was to uphold an ideal, for good or ill, to defend your honor and your interests. It was the warrior spirit made tangible in steel and strapped to your hip.
Of course I wanted one.
Because of this I’d owned several budget rapiers over the years from manufacturers like Hanwei and Windlass, but they never quite itched the scratch properly and I pretty much gave up the search for a while.
Then a couple years ago I went to London for the first time and not only saw dozens of real period rapiers, but also saw the rapiers made by Arms & Armor of Minnesota in use and on display at Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre. I knew they were expensive, but could finally see that they were done VERY well and captured the spirit of the blade that fascinated me. I vowed that the next time I got my hands on a rapier, it would be made by A&A.
Twenty-two months later the stars aligned and friend and fellow forumite Sean agreed to sell me his sole rapier, since another model by A&A called to him even more. His generosity and my lightened wallet (and the forumites who bought some of my other blades) bring us to the subject of this review today.
Historical overview
To paraphrase Bill Grandy’s excellent article, the rapier is generally thought of as the long thrust-oriented dueling weapon of the Renaissance that included a degree of hand protection offered by a complex hilt, though the term “rapier” itself is less specific. For more info check out the rest of his article, because he knows far more about their history and use than I do. :lol:
This particular sword by Arms & Armor is based on an antique from Solingen, Germany, housed at the Deutsches Klingenmuseum Solingen. The original sword is from around 1600 and “the guard is of an early form with a post and arm at the base of the hilt arms, instead of the more usual ring” according to A&A.
This model is called the “German Rapier” and I think that sums it up fairly well.
Full Disclosure
I bought this sword second-hand with my own money. I received no incentive from A&A and have no affiliation with them.
Initial Impressions
The sword arrived in a big cardboard box protected by generous helping of bubble wrap and packing paper, but as this was a personal transaction I didn’t include photos since it doesn’t say anything about the product itself. It suffices to say that Sean packs his swords very well, but I don’t know how the sword would ship if it were purchased from a vendor.
My initial impression was simply “Gosh that’s pretty.” As is often the case, the beauty of the sword was more striking in person than photos had led me to believe, since there were very few pictures online and those that existed were from very few angles. So forgive me if I include too many over the course of the review. The sword was pleasing to the eye and the hand.
Statistics
*Shown above a Del Tin French small sword for scale*
Weight: 2lbs 9 oz (according to KOA. I have no scale to verify at present)
Overall Length: 42 & 1/2th inches
Blade Length: 34 & 3/4 inches (as measured from the termination of the hand protection)
Grip Length: 3 inches
Blade Width (At Base): 7/8ths inch.
Blade Width (One inch from tip): 3/8ths inch
Center Of Balance: 2 inches from end of ricasso area.
Components
The Scabbard
Sean included a nice bonus in an A&A scabbard for the rapier, which I didn’t know he had till he offered it. The scabbard is a simple affair, just leather around the blade that’s stitched up the back. But it’s executed well, and the leather is very nice, soft and supple. Were it hanging at your side with the blade drawn, it would be very unlikely to get caught up on anything because it is so soft and flexible.
The Blade
The blade is sleek and straight, and a bit scary.
The narrow blade sports a nice even profile taper to a piercing tip, yet the distal taper is subdued: about 15% over the length of the blade. This means that the narrow foible still has quite a substantial spine in the last third of the blade, and the angle of the primary bevel becomes steeper and steeper as you approach the point. I’ve seen this type of blade geometry on several period rapiers, and it results in a tip that is very well reinforced even though the mass continually tapers. I could easily stab through a car door with this tip and only fear marring the finish.
Speaking of the finish: it is a smooth polish, not quite a mirror shine, which is evenly applied with only a few perpendicular scratches near the guard. The edge has no secondary bevel and is sharp after the first inch and a half past the ricasso. The edge is not quite paper slicing sharp (I could get it to cut paper, but only after a few tries) though it easily scratches a thumbnail. The steep bevel in the last third indicates that this isn’t going to be a champion bottle slicer, but I would still be terrified to receive a blow to the neck or hand from this blade. The point may be king, but the edge isn’t just for show. It would do some real damage in a draw cut or a striking blow.
The sword has a narrow fuller in the first third of the blade, and unlike the period piece this fuller continues briefly into the ricasso section, which I find to be an aesthetic improvement. The blade also differs from the historical sword by including a small set of shoulders in the blade for the top of the hilt to rest against, more clearly defining the ricasso from the blade proper and creating a tighter assembly--- which I also approve of over the period original. The grind that begins the blade bevels is slightly asymmetrical, but not unattractively so. It simply looks handmade.
The Guard
Now we’re talking. Obviously the most striking aspect of the sword, the guard elongates and branches into a complex swept hilt.
The rear quillion curves sharply upwards and terminates with a leaf motif that is repeated elsewhere, while the fore quillion curves downward to join the knuckle guard. The quillion block is decorated with several deep grooves that run parallel to the blade. The hilt has three counterguards that join the finger ring arms at the termination of the ricasso on the inner side, and a fourth smaller one nearest the knuckle guard that makes an "S"-curve before following the others, while the outer side of the hilt has a downward-sloping arm and simple post instead of a side ring or loop.
The sword could certainly be used in the left hand, but it is designed for the right handed swordsman, as there is more space over the back of the hand than around the thumb, and the embellishments are one-sided.
The guard is just straight-up awesome. It is a spot on-replica of the hilt on an authentic sword of the type.
The Pommel
The pommel is a simple tapering onion/pear shape, but embellished with a similar leaf motif as the guard. It is unobstrusive and fits the sword well, and is not overly large like the pommels on many budget rapiers. The sword is peened at the end of the pommel. (With the sword in my left hand in this photo you can see how there is more room on the outer side of the guard than the inner, to accommodate the back of the hand and the knuckles when used in the right hand.)
The Grip
The grip is beautiful.
Alternating opposing directions of twisted wire pairs with strands of untwisted wire, and with the ends capped off with turks head knots, the grip is a work of art in its own right.
It is short, but perfectly adequate because the forefinger is meant to be looped over the fore quillion and around the ricasso. Here you can see how there is plenty of room to loop the finger over, as opposed to the small sword where the ricasso is meant to be pinched between the thumb and forefinger.
Handling Characteristics
The Rapier is lovely in-hand. But also not quite what you might expect. The smallsword comparison photos weren’t only for scale—they were to help make a distinction. For better or for worse, most of us have an image of rapiers in our heads from swashbuckling films, which is fine, except most movie swordfighting is based on smallsword fencing or sport fencing. Not rapier fencing. This rapier is actually on the short side for historical examples, yet cleary it is still larger, wider, and yes, heavier than a typical 18th-century smallsword. These swords weren’t made for parry-riposte wristy exchanges, they were made for more direct movements and single-time responses. Rather than feeling like a toy or a fencing foil, the rapier feels like….well, it feels like a full-sized arming sword with excellent point control. Close your eyes and you could easily imagine a swift and tapering type XII in your hand, though the finger over the guard would ruin the illusion a bit.
The brass-hilted small sword shown here is the very picture of a fast and light thruster. It will perform any fancy movie maneuver with ease and be ready for more. It is faster than the rapier, but it’s also the fastest sword I’ve ever held. The rapier is quite swift, but still has a healthy substance to it like an arming sword.
Let me put it this way: if I had to fight a duel agreed upon first blood and I had to be nimble and quick and dart around and score the first hit to release a bit of red in order to end the match, I’d use the smallsword. But if I had to kill a man dead, in a no-quarter confrontation, I’d pick up the rapier every time.
Test Cutting
Well this one’s not much for cutting, nor do I have cutting stands or targets at the moment because of my school’s intense recycling program and limited apartment space. But I know you guys like to see the swords moving. So here’s a few seconds of me swishing around the rapier the first time I took it outside, just trying to see how it responds.
Obviously I’m not yet comfortable with the sword in that clip, but you can get a sense of how the blade moves. I’m falling in love with it more and more. And since my only training is in stage fighting, it’s pushed me to want to learn more about historical fencing and the proper use of such a weapon.
Awesome.
Conclusions
Well, what else can I say? The sword exceeded even my own very picky expectations. It’s superb. I could give a pros and cons list, but it would be heavy on the pros and just a re-iteration of my blathering above. The only real con here is the price.
This thing really ain’t cheap, no way to sugar coat it.
But to be able to reconnect to that warrior ideal, that childhood wonder, that’s an experience hard to put a price on. Well worth the dollars in my opinion, and the blade’s worth it too.
Thanks for reading.
--Luna
Zach Luna, Boulder CO
Introduction
I’ve always wanted a nice rapier. The swords feature prominently in the stories and legends that captured my heart as a child and continue to inspire me today. Tales ranging from the Three Musketeers to Hamlet to The Count of Monte Cristo to the Princess Bride to Capitan Alatriste all showcase the slim and deadly bladeform (sometimes rather inaccurately). But however unrealistically I might have seen the use of the weapon portrayed from time to time, the spirit of the sword was always clear: it was a dueling blade, worn at your side in civilian life, not just on the battlefield. To put the rapier to use was to uphold an ideal, for good or ill, to defend your honor and your interests. It was the warrior spirit made tangible in steel and strapped to your hip.
Of course I wanted one.
Because of this I’d owned several budget rapiers over the years from manufacturers like Hanwei and Windlass, but they never quite itched the scratch properly and I pretty much gave up the search for a while.
Then a couple years ago I went to London for the first time and not only saw dozens of real period rapiers, but also saw the rapiers made by Arms & Armor of Minnesota in use and on display at Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre. I knew they were expensive, but could finally see that they were done VERY well and captured the spirit of the blade that fascinated me. I vowed that the next time I got my hands on a rapier, it would be made by A&A.
Twenty-two months later the stars aligned and friend and fellow forumite Sean agreed to sell me his sole rapier, since another model by A&A called to him even more. His generosity and my lightened wallet (and the forumites who bought some of my other blades) bring us to the subject of this review today.
Historical overview
To paraphrase Bill Grandy’s excellent article, the rapier is generally thought of as the long thrust-oriented dueling weapon of the Renaissance that included a degree of hand protection offered by a complex hilt, though the term “rapier” itself is less specific. For more info check out the rest of his article, because he knows far more about their history and use than I do. :lol:
This particular sword by Arms & Armor is based on an antique from Solingen, Germany, housed at the Deutsches Klingenmuseum Solingen. The original sword is from around 1600 and “the guard is of an early form with a post and arm at the base of the hilt arms, instead of the more usual ring” according to A&A.
This model is called the “German Rapier” and I think that sums it up fairly well.
Full Disclosure
I bought this sword second-hand with my own money. I received no incentive from A&A and have no affiliation with them.
Initial Impressions
The sword arrived in a big cardboard box protected by generous helping of bubble wrap and packing paper, but as this was a personal transaction I didn’t include photos since it doesn’t say anything about the product itself. It suffices to say that Sean packs his swords very well, but I don’t know how the sword would ship if it were purchased from a vendor.
My initial impression was simply “Gosh that’s pretty.” As is often the case, the beauty of the sword was more striking in person than photos had led me to believe, since there were very few pictures online and those that existed were from very few angles. So forgive me if I include too many over the course of the review. The sword was pleasing to the eye and the hand.
Statistics
*Shown above a Del Tin French small sword for scale*
Weight: 2lbs 9 oz (according to KOA. I have no scale to verify at present)
Overall Length: 42 & 1/2th inches
Blade Length: 34 & 3/4 inches (as measured from the termination of the hand protection)
Grip Length: 3 inches
Blade Width (At Base): 7/8ths inch.
Blade Width (One inch from tip): 3/8ths inch
Center Of Balance: 2 inches from end of ricasso area.
Components
The Scabbard
Sean included a nice bonus in an A&A scabbard for the rapier, which I didn’t know he had till he offered it. The scabbard is a simple affair, just leather around the blade that’s stitched up the back. But it’s executed well, and the leather is very nice, soft and supple. Were it hanging at your side with the blade drawn, it would be very unlikely to get caught up on anything because it is so soft and flexible.
The Blade
The blade is sleek and straight, and a bit scary.
The narrow blade sports a nice even profile taper to a piercing tip, yet the distal taper is subdued: about 15% over the length of the blade. This means that the narrow foible still has quite a substantial spine in the last third of the blade, and the angle of the primary bevel becomes steeper and steeper as you approach the point. I’ve seen this type of blade geometry on several period rapiers, and it results in a tip that is very well reinforced even though the mass continually tapers. I could easily stab through a car door with this tip and only fear marring the finish.
Speaking of the finish: it is a smooth polish, not quite a mirror shine, which is evenly applied with only a few perpendicular scratches near the guard. The edge has no secondary bevel and is sharp after the first inch and a half past the ricasso. The edge is not quite paper slicing sharp (I could get it to cut paper, but only after a few tries) though it easily scratches a thumbnail. The steep bevel in the last third indicates that this isn’t going to be a champion bottle slicer, but I would still be terrified to receive a blow to the neck or hand from this blade. The point may be king, but the edge isn’t just for show. It would do some real damage in a draw cut or a striking blow.
The sword has a narrow fuller in the first third of the blade, and unlike the period piece this fuller continues briefly into the ricasso section, which I find to be an aesthetic improvement. The blade also differs from the historical sword by including a small set of shoulders in the blade for the top of the hilt to rest against, more clearly defining the ricasso from the blade proper and creating a tighter assembly--- which I also approve of over the period original. The grind that begins the blade bevels is slightly asymmetrical, but not unattractively so. It simply looks handmade.
The Guard
Now we’re talking. Obviously the most striking aspect of the sword, the guard elongates and branches into a complex swept hilt.
The rear quillion curves sharply upwards and terminates with a leaf motif that is repeated elsewhere, while the fore quillion curves downward to join the knuckle guard. The quillion block is decorated with several deep grooves that run parallel to the blade. The hilt has three counterguards that join the finger ring arms at the termination of the ricasso on the inner side, and a fourth smaller one nearest the knuckle guard that makes an "S"-curve before following the others, while the outer side of the hilt has a downward-sloping arm and simple post instead of a side ring or loop.
The sword could certainly be used in the left hand, but it is designed for the right handed swordsman, as there is more space over the back of the hand than around the thumb, and the embellishments are one-sided.
The guard is just straight-up awesome. It is a spot on-replica of the hilt on an authentic sword of the type.
The Pommel
The pommel is a simple tapering onion/pear shape, but embellished with a similar leaf motif as the guard. It is unobstrusive and fits the sword well, and is not overly large like the pommels on many budget rapiers. The sword is peened at the end of the pommel. (With the sword in my left hand in this photo you can see how there is more room on the outer side of the guard than the inner, to accommodate the back of the hand and the knuckles when used in the right hand.)
The Grip
The grip is beautiful.
Alternating opposing directions of twisted wire pairs with strands of untwisted wire, and with the ends capped off with turks head knots, the grip is a work of art in its own right.
It is short, but perfectly adequate because the forefinger is meant to be looped over the fore quillion and around the ricasso. Here you can see how there is plenty of room to loop the finger over, as opposed to the small sword where the ricasso is meant to be pinched between the thumb and forefinger.
Handling Characteristics
The Rapier is lovely in-hand. But also not quite what you might expect. The smallsword comparison photos weren’t only for scale—they were to help make a distinction. For better or for worse, most of us have an image of rapiers in our heads from swashbuckling films, which is fine, except most movie swordfighting is based on smallsword fencing or sport fencing. Not rapier fencing. This rapier is actually on the short side for historical examples, yet cleary it is still larger, wider, and yes, heavier than a typical 18th-century smallsword. These swords weren’t made for parry-riposte wristy exchanges, they were made for more direct movements and single-time responses. Rather than feeling like a toy or a fencing foil, the rapier feels like….well, it feels like a full-sized arming sword with excellent point control. Close your eyes and you could easily imagine a swift and tapering type XII in your hand, though the finger over the guard would ruin the illusion a bit.
The brass-hilted small sword shown here is the very picture of a fast and light thruster. It will perform any fancy movie maneuver with ease and be ready for more. It is faster than the rapier, but it’s also the fastest sword I’ve ever held. The rapier is quite swift, but still has a healthy substance to it like an arming sword.
Let me put it this way: if I had to fight a duel agreed upon first blood and I had to be nimble and quick and dart around and score the first hit to release a bit of red in order to end the match, I’d use the smallsword. But if I had to kill a man dead, in a no-quarter confrontation, I’d pick up the rapier every time.
Test Cutting
Well this one’s not much for cutting, nor do I have cutting stands or targets at the moment because of my school’s intense recycling program and limited apartment space. But I know you guys like to see the swords moving. So here’s a few seconds of me swishing around the rapier the first time I took it outside, just trying to see how it responds.
Obviously I’m not yet comfortable with the sword in that clip, but you can get a sense of how the blade moves. I’m falling in love with it more and more. And since my only training is in stage fighting, it’s pushed me to want to learn more about historical fencing and the proper use of such a weapon.
Awesome.
Conclusions
Well, what else can I say? The sword exceeded even my own very picky expectations. It’s superb. I could give a pros and cons list, but it would be heavy on the pros and just a re-iteration of my blathering above. The only real con here is the price.
This thing really ain’t cheap, no way to sugar coat it.
But to be able to reconnect to that warrior ideal, that childhood wonder, that’s an experience hard to put a price on. Well worth the dollars in my opinion, and the blade’s worth it too.
Thanks for reading.
--Luna