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Post by Ramsay318 on May 18, 2013 21:43:03 GMT
Shameless self-promotion here, but I am getting started in the shield-making business (wooden ones, not metal), and I like to think my work counts as battle-ready. Take a look: viewtopic.php?f=36&t=16915
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Post by Sir Thorfinn on May 19, 2013 21:43:39 GMT
To add my $.02 Over the course of my time in the SCA, I made over 400 shields. Any shape and size... There are 2 things the orignal poster didn't mention or know... And cost figures into these... First, how durable does it need to be? If it's is for movement practice, you can go with cheap. Second, if you intend to use it in any sort of impact based practice, and don't want to replace it every few sessions, you can't use period medieval build techniques.
So what I mean...wood is nice, but splits and cracks quickly. Reinforcing it to slow down the inevitable damage and increase the life can add significant weight.
My recommendation is to use aluminum. Windrose is a fantastic source, and a fair priced business for what you get. And hiding the fact that you've got an aluminum heater is simpler than overbuilding a wood one to make it last. YES...it's a little more expensive, but it will last years rather than months.
And if you want wood...the prices on Ramsay318's shields are very good, especially considering he's doing the bulk of the finishing for you.
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Post by C.J. on Jun 5, 2013 0:56:43 GMT
If you can get some plywood cut for you an easy way to curve a shield is soak the wood. Once this is done find a good tree and use some ratchet straps to secure it and get the bend your looking for. Let it dry and there you go. I used this method a few times before I cheated and just bought an aluminum one.
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Post by Unit731 on Nov 23, 2013 1:45:29 GMT
If a person were to block a blow from a light mace or bat with a flat, viking style shield, could the impact break his arm?
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Post by Ramsay318 on Nov 23, 2013 2:22:24 GMT
I doubt it. I once fired a 1.25" oak dowel from a ballista at one 50 feet away. It cracked the wood, but nothing shattered or went through. So, if that didn't do it, I doubt a person with a club could do the same. Wood is just too fibrous.
Is this related to the Samurai/Viking deadlist warrior? Because that was bullsemprini.
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Post by Unit731 on Nov 23, 2013 17:33:13 GMT
Nah, no deadliest warrior here. Was just wondering how well the shock is absorbed or if some could get transferred
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Post by Ramsay318 on Nov 23, 2013 17:52:31 GMT
Oh, good. But yeah, there's a lot of shock absorbing, since the whole principle of a shield is to spread the impact over a wider area. Plus there's the problem of hitting squarely on the shield, instead of glancing off. Now, if the shield is already weak and if you're up against a really strong guy, then maybe it's possible. But it would take a lot of improper use with lousy gear to manage it.
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Post by Timo Nieminen on Nov 23, 2013 20:22:45 GMT
A flat Viking-style shield has a grip in the centre, behind the boss. You hold it by that grip, and the shield itself is not against your arm. The only part you are touching is the grip. How could a blow break your arm?
Even with a flat forearm shield, the amount it would need to be bent/deformed by a blow to break the arm would be enormous. The folks who use them in all sorts of fighting with steel and rattan weapons demonstrate quite well that the impact doesn't break arms.
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Post by MOK on Nov 23, 2013 20:28:54 GMT
A shield can absorb a whole lot of kinetic energy simply because your arm (and the rest of your body) gives, bending before breaking. You aren't (or at least shouldn't be) a fixed target. Besides, a viking style center grip shield can also rotate in your hand, which you can actively use to redirect blows and open lines of attack. See this video for some examples: Besides, ideally you don't just stand there in the other guy's optimal striking distance but move in to smother the power of the blow, connecting with the offending weapon behind its most dangerous part, as close to the opponent's hand as possible - which, conveniently enough, also gives your shield the opportunity to break the opponent's hand and/or face in the process.
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Post by Highlander3751 on Nov 23, 2013 23:11:05 GMT
I make shields as a hobby, and while they might not last more than a battle or two, they are pretty sturdy. Using product 1/2 inch plywood from Lowes and metal mixing bowls from a dollar store I can make one for less than $20 in parts and materials.
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Post by Unit731 on Nov 27, 2013 22:50:46 GMT
Thanks for the video MOK! It was ultra informative.
I took a while to respond as I hadn't finished the video right away, heh heh.
By the looks of the mechanics, I might prefer how the viking shield can move in the hand the way it does. I love the deflecting ability it has.
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