Kris Cutlery 26A Katana
Jan 25, 2012 12:08:17 GMT
Post by frankthebunny on Jan 25, 2012 12:08:17 GMT
Kris Cutlery Katana 26A
a review by
Josh Marlan
Queens, New York
January 25th 2012
Introduction
Many of you already know that I am a fan of Kris Cutlery swords
and after more than two years since I purchased my first one, I'm still in love.
after reading about their line of Katana in the very few reviews I could find, I was interested
but not yet convinced to buy one. I stumbled onto the SBG forums in my search to learn more
and found a review for the new Katana from longtime member Slavia. before I saw it I was under
the impression that the Tsuka was still permanently attached and the blade was hollow ground.
I quickly learned I was wrong and found out that this sword was even better than I thought, now
I was convinced.
after some time I picked up the 26II because even though they still weren't stocking
the A model I wanted to try out the shorter length. as I thought, it was perfect for me.
I have a background of FMA and was used to shorter single handed blades so reducing the
length by 3" was an easier transition and ultimately more comfortable.
more time went by and I have amassed a small horde of Katana and Wakizashi as well as
a few Tanto, most of which I later customized. I was only recently able to get my
hands on the long sought after 26A Katana. my sub $300 Katana dream come true
Full Disclosure
While I'm a huge fan of the products that Kris Cutlery manufacture and sell, I am in no way
associated with the company or owners. I found a product that I have been consistently happy
with for years and felt I should write up a review to express my personal impression of it. I will
be as objective and unbiased as possible. I was not offered any money or compensation.
Specifications
Sugata(style/shape): Shinogi-Zukuri(sword with ridge)
Nagasa(length measured from mune-machi to tip): 26", 27" from Tsuba to tip
Motohaba(width of blade at Habaki): 31mm - 1.2"
Sakihaba(width of blade at Kissaki): 22mm - 0.86"
Motokasane(thickness of blade at base) 5mm - 0.19"
Sakikasane(thickness of blade at Yokote) 4mm - 0.15"
Kissaki(from Yokote to tip) 35mm - 1.37"
Koshi-Zori(curves near handle), Sori(depth of curvature) 13mm - 0.5" in
Tsuka(handle) 10 1/2"
Weight 2.6 Lbs without Saya
Steel - 5160 carbon steel
Hamon(temper line) - Suguha(staight) differentially hardened and water quenched
Nakago(tang) 9 7/8"(from mune machi)
POB 4 1/2"-5" from Tsuba
Initial Impression
the sword comes packaged in a sleeve of bubble wrap and placed in a narrow box with a few
packing peanuts. the packaging could be better but so far I haven't had anything arrive damaged.
upon first inspection I can't help but notice how different it is from your standard black with
black Katana. once the Saya comes off it's all about the unique features of the satin 5160 steel.
the order usually arrives in about 1 week via UPS and tracking #
Fit & Finish
As mentioned in the stats above, the Sugata(shape/style) is Shinogi-Zukuri which is the most
common style of modern production Katana. the blade features a basic practitioners polish with
a burnished Shinogi-Ji and Mune. the Suguha Hamon is created by quenching the edge of the
blade in water instead of the usual and traditional use of applying clay. there are a few relatively
rare features found on the KC blades such as a Mitsu-Mune(three facet spine), a geometric
Yokote(beginning of physical planar shift near tip) and the followthrough of Sori into the Nakago as
well as the generous amount of niku present.
some imperfections of note -
in addition to the overall low polish of the blade the geometry can suffer from soft lines which is an
issue of aesthetics rather than function. the Kissaki occasionally has a slightly rough cross polish
on the Kissaki and there can be very light to medium waves felt throughout the length.
while I find these elements part of the hand made charm of the sword, some would be happier with
a finer polish and crisper lines. the Tsukamaki is very tight, almost painfully tight but can be a bit
neater. since Hishigami aren't used the diamonds aren't as crisp or even as they could be.
The Kris Cutlery line of Katana are definitely meant for one thing, use, and it is obvious
as soon as you wield it that it is a total workhorse. utilitarian in design and execution,
from plain yet powerful fittings to the thick strong tsuka wrapped in tough synthetic Tsukaito
and the iron reiforced Saya. the steel is tough and forgiving while sporting medium Niku(meat).
I recently found out that the Tsuka lacks Same because the owner likes and respects fish so
did not want to use them for his swords. in it's place there is a fabric mesh sealed with lacquer,
it adequately serves it's purpose of protecting the wood and providing grip for the ito.
Historical Overview
I don't believe there is any particular historical example this model is based on and seems to
have elements from different time periods, regions and schools of sword smithing.
the Koshi-Zori is seen a lot in swords made by the schools of the Bizen region.
there almost seems to be Fumbari although not as large or obvious as most antique examples
so it might not qualify. it also reminds me of a Tachi that has been cut down(sorry, I forgot the
term..Uchigatana?) I'm not sure if the cylindrical Saya has any historical background but I've
read that the rounded or oval kojiri does.
a no frills solid workhorse Katana that while good to go right out of the box, is also one
of the best choices for customization. considering the fair price and strong and meaty
foundation, there is a lot of room for modification without having to break the bank.
let's take a closer look at the individual parts.
The Blade
you can clearly see the curve starting near the nakago as opposed to in the middle of the length
or near the tip of the blade. this is called Koshi Sori or Koshi-Zori
there is a nice tight and straight grain in this steel which under close inspection reveals a
unique banding structure.
the Hamon though hard to see normally will really pop with tons of detail with a simple
acid etching using vinegar or fcl. some owners havealso had success bringing out the Hamon
with a fingerstone polish. here is a picture of another KC blade after acid etching in vinegar
on the last few swords I picked up the Hamon was rising pretty high to the shinogi (one even going into
the shinogi-Ji) but this one has a very nicely steady and straight 1/4" thick Hamon visible
only at the right angles.
I really like the curved and relatively narrow nakago, it makes reshaping the Tsuka core easier without
the risk of going through the wood. it does not have Yasurime(file marks) which are found in different
patterns on many Nakago but it does have a nicely started patina which aids in a tight fit in the Tsuka.
there is no Mei(signature) present or any identifying marks other then the numbers in marker near the end(22).
you can see the width of the base of the blade changes within approximately 2" of the Mune-Machi.
it goes from 31mm to 29mm and then averages about 25mm to the Yokote. Fumbari?
I'm not sure since it is so subtle.
Mitsu-Mune
usually the spine of a Katana blade comes to an angled, two sided peak or is almost flat or slightly
rounded. you can see there is a flat center at the top with an angled edge to either side of it.
as with the polish in general, this mune isn't as crisp as some would like it.
Kissaki
accenting the geometry of the Kissaki
the shape/style of Kissaki is somewhere between a regular Chu-Kissaki(medium size with even curve)
to Kamasu-Kissaki(stright angle with little to no curve) and can vary slightly from piece to piece.
this never really bothered me but I guess if I had the choice, I would have it with more of a even curve.
Polish
in some areas of the blade surface there is an almost mirror polish as you can see here by the reflections.
I think what most people prefer is to not be able to feel waves or bumps along the length. this is the biggest
gripe with the polish on these swords.
Masame-Hada(stright grain in metal)
Tsuka
the Tsuka of the KC 5160 line are of Morozori style/shape(equally curved on top & bottom)
the Tsukamaki is alternating and very tight but do not use Hishigami in the folds.
I personally do not like the feel of the stock synthetic ito and have to change it out
before using for practice or cutting. it can be a bit rough on bare hands in my opinion as
well as feeling a little slick. sometimes the end knots are not on the correct sides and while
this makes no difference to me, it might bother some people. the lack of Samegawa is also
something I don't mind but this is because I modify it later on, plus, it would most likely add a
lot to the cost anyway. a fabric mesh material soaked with lacquer is used in place of Samegawa.
I'm not sure exactly what the fabric is made from and there has been speculation that it could be
fiberglass and epoxy but I don't believe so. probably just some cheesecloth and lacquer/shellac.
it's strong and does provide some grip for the Tsukaito.
the Menuki
the Menuki(handle ornaments) are usually some type of dragon but I have also had tigers on a
couple of swords. they are often made of brass or bronze and of decent to good quality with crisp
details. my favorite are the bright brass dragons because they are indeed a proper set and show great detail.
the Menuki on this sword are intertwined dragons facing each other and are made of bronze(I think)
but are not a real set as they are both identical. the Menuki seem to be randomly chosen from sword to sword.
the Tsuka core is thick and strong made from a good quality hardwood. you can see the core is numbered(22)
to fit with the matching blade and fittings. much like the wood for the Saya, the grain seems to be
matching from side to side and shows that the pieces are cut from the same block which is nice.
Tsuba
the Tsuba is blackened iron and 3" in diameter and 4mm thick with two small holes that I have seen
on a couple of antique Katana. they are not however Hitsuana(holes for Kozuka and Kogai but rather
Udenukiana which have been described as being a representation of the sun and moon and also meant
for tying wrist cords through or to just secure the sword in Saya. again, you can see the
number 22 stamped into the metal.
nicely rounded edge
Fuchi/ Kashira
plain blackened iron is the theme here. no frills but strong and meant for heavy use.
the Fuchi is made of two pieces and welded together. it is also numbered(22) though you can't see it here.
the Kashira
is solid iron and extremely strong but as you can see the holes could be a bit rough.
a little filing can remedy this if it bothers you.
Habaki
you will find brass Habaki on most production Katana with an occasional copper one but the KC
is equipped with a Habaki made of what else? that's right, steel. a little square and chunky with
a lack of shape or any fancy design, again we are reminded that this isn't a sword built for looks
but for business. it is roughly 3mm thick. the mune side has the same three facets as the mune of the blade
the fit is ok but on some I've seen pretty large gaps but because they ship them out with a shmear
of grease in there, I doubt much water will get underneath it while cutting wet targets.
this is also the first sword I've seen from KC without a slit for the Ha-Machi. I'm not sure why
Seppa
I love the solid brass Seppa used on these swords. they are thick, plain but unique and each one
is hand cut, sanded and matched for the individual sword, no cheap stamped tin gears here. you can
also notice that they are two different sizes as they are meant to fit with the specific shape of the
Tsuka and fittings. these are also ripe for easy modification like adding decorative file marks or other designs.
(numbered 22)
Mekugi
the two Mekugi are of excellent quality, thick and strong with a nicely cylindrical shape tapering near the end. they
are smoked bamboo and the ends are polished so they hold up very well over time with little to no damage from
the Mekuginuki.(brass removal hammer)
Saya
the Saya is of thick and strong mahogany wood with a clear coat of lacquer over the surface.
the Kurigata is black buffalo horn and Kojiri is solid blackened iron.
the Koiguchi is a blackened iron band instead of the more common horn which is more than
adequate for reinforcement of the Sayaguchi. I have had Saya with a tight fit while a few
including this one has a small rattle near the tip if shaken vigorously. I do not practice
any real form of JSA but I could understand if some that do might find the Saya too thick and round
to be comfortable. it's approximately 28mm near the koiguchi tapering to 22mm near the Kojiri.
of course it is also numbered 22.
I tried to capture the geometric Yokote with this piece of paper leaning on the flat blade surface. you can see
where the metal suddenly drops away from the paper.
Handling Characteristics
I find the 26" Nagasa perfect for me even though I think for my height of 5'11" I should be
using a slightly longer blade.
it is quick and easily manuverable while still feeling powerful. it is one of the best balanced
swords I've handled even compared to some swords more than twice the price. with a POB of
around 4 1/2" - 5" and weight of 2.6 Lbs, it is practically effortless to swing and cut with. it is
nimble enough to be wielded with one hand with practice.
the apple seed edge is deceptively sharp while maybe not necessarily paper shearing sharp. it will cut
light to heavy targets with little trouble, but with a simple stropping, it will even slice and dice
tricky pool noodles with ease. you might not be able to do multiple cuts with one hand while
talking on your cell phone and reading the paper but to preform some decent cutting you
might have to learn some basic cutting technique and practice it
the 5160 is a tough but also forgiving steel that will take a bend or set on a really bad cut rather than
snap or crack. Kris Cutlery guarantees their blades form breaking for up to a year with normal use.
this is a tough, if a little rough, everyday cutter that will probably be your go to blade for
years of reliable cutting. I just find it fun to use and no other sword feels quite as
right in my hands at this point.
Cutting
I have nowhere safe and or legal to cut and rarely get the opportunity to find a spot suitable.
unfortunately I have no pictures or video of this sword cutting anything but from past experience using
three other models I can say it cuts like a dream.
I have cut plastic bottles of all kinds, cardboard boxes, pool noodles and a few melons and
1" - 2 1/2" thick branches. I have also cut into cutting stands of wood and plastic with no
serious incidents. the worst of it was one set that I was able to take out with care and patience.
because of the Niku you really have to be aware of your edge alignment and follow through to make
clean or silent cuts but once you get used to it, the blade just slices away target after target.
Pros and Cons
Pros:
tough and durable everyday workhorse cutter
light, quick and easily manuverable
has features rarely seen on most other production swords in it's class
curved and comfortable Tsuka
under $300 including shipping (UPS ground)
best customer service around.....period
hand made in small batches by the same forge in the Philippines
geometric Yokote/Kissaki
tight Tsukamaki
Cons:
polish could be better including cross polished Kissaki and soft lines
fittings are plain
synthetic ito
no Samegawa
thick cylindrical Saya
no Sageo
does not come with accessories such as cleaning kit, stand or sword bag
Tsukamaki can be neater
Conclusion
I love this Katana for the quality craftsmanship and materials as well as the handling and performance.
since I wind up customizing them I don't mind the plain fittings and lack of accessories such as
Samegawa and sageo. I would like to see a slightly higher level of polish and crisper lines
but maybe not as much if the price were to rise much higher because of it.
IMHO this is a terrific sword to use everyday as well as a potentially stunning custom with some work.
I would highly recommend the Kris Cutlery 26A to those who care more about performance than looks
and accessories or to those who have the means to modify it to their liking. to those looking for a shorter
blade length, excellent balance
and easy maneuverability should also look into the 26A, 26II or 26III Katana.
I would not recommend this sword to anyone wanting or expecting an out of the box display sword
equipped with all the bells and whistles or one that is modeled after an historical example.
the polish and fittings could disappoint some folks and it's not winning an award for being pretty
anytime soon. but of course......beauty is in the eye of the beholder is it not?
An additional note on the 5160 line of Katana
there are two blade lengths, 26" & 29", and choices with or without Bo Hi plus two different Tsuka options,
standard Tsukamaki and spiral wrapped. all of these swords are produced in the Philippines and none are
available with Samegawa. these Katana are also not the same steel or forge as the folded steel line KC carries.
the swords with the folded steel and Samegawa and black lacquered Saya are produced by a forge in China.
the Katana 26A is available for $265 and $20 ground shipping plus there is a layaway option which can be very useful.
check out the full line of Kris Cutlery products here - kriscutlery.com/85.html
I think I covered everything important but could have missed a few things so just let me know and I'll be sure to add it.
all questions and comments are of course welcome and Thanks for reading.
-Josh
a review by
Josh Marlan
Queens, New York
January 25th 2012
Introduction
Many of you already know that I am a fan of Kris Cutlery swords
and after more than two years since I purchased my first one, I'm still in love.
after reading about their line of Katana in the very few reviews I could find, I was interested
but not yet convinced to buy one. I stumbled onto the SBG forums in my search to learn more
and found a review for the new Katana from longtime member Slavia. before I saw it I was under
the impression that the Tsuka was still permanently attached and the blade was hollow ground.
I quickly learned I was wrong and found out that this sword was even better than I thought, now
I was convinced.
after some time I picked up the 26II because even though they still weren't stocking
the A model I wanted to try out the shorter length. as I thought, it was perfect for me.
I have a background of FMA and was used to shorter single handed blades so reducing the
length by 3" was an easier transition and ultimately more comfortable.
more time went by and I have amassed a small horde of Katana and Wakizashi as well as
a few Tanto, most of which I later customized. I was only recently able to get my
hands on the long sought after 26A Katana. my sub $300 Katana dream come true
Full Disclosure
While I'm a huge fan of the products that Kris Cutlery manufacture and sell, I am in no way
associated with the company or owners. I found a product that I have been consistently happy
with for years and felt I should write up a review to express my personal impression of it. I will
be as objective and unbiased as possible. I was not offered any money or compensation.
Specifications
Sugata(style/shape): Shinogi-Zukuri(sword with ridge)
Nagasa(length measured from mune-machi to tip): 26", 27" from Tsuba to tip
Motohaba(width of blade at Habaki): 31mm - 1.2"
Sakihaba(width of blade at Kissaki): 22mm - 0.86"
Motokasane(thickness of blade at base) 5mm - 0.19"
Sakikasane(thickness of blade at Yokote) 4mm - 0.15"
Kissaki(from Yokote to tip) 35mm - 1.37"
Koshi-Zori(curves near handle), Sori(depth of curvature) 13mm - 0.5" in
Tsuka(handle) 10 1/2"
Weight 2.6 Lbs without Saya
Steel - 5160 carbon steel
Hamon(temper line) - Suguha(staight) differentially hardened and water quenched
Nakago(tang) 9 7/8"(from mune machi)
POB 4 1/2"-5" from Tsuba
Initial Impression
the sword comes packaged in a sleeve of bubble wrap and placed in a narrow box with a few
packing peanuts. the packaging could be better but so far I haven't had anything arrive damaged.
upon first inspection I can't help but notice how different it is from your standard black with
black Katana. once the Saya comes off it's all about the unique features of the satin 5160 steel.
the order usually arrives in about 1 week via UPS and tracking #
Fit & Finish
As mentioned in the stats above, the Sugata(shape/style) is Shinogi-Zukuri which is the most
common style of modern production Katana. the blade features a basic practitioners polish with
a burnished Shinogi-Ji and Mune. the Suguha Hamon is created by quenching the edge of the
blade in water instead of the usual and traditional use of applying clay. there are a few relatively
rare features found on the KC blades such as a Mitsu-Mune(three facet spine), a geometric
Yokote(beginning of physical planar shift near tip) and the followthrough of Sori into the Nakago as
well as the generous amount of niku present.
some imperfections of note -
in addition to the overall low polish of the blade the geometry can suffer from soft lines which is an
issue of aesthetics rather than function. the Kissaki occasionally has a slightly rough cross polish
on the Kissaki and there can be very light to medium waves felt throughout the length.
while I find these elements part of the hand made charm of the sword, some would be happier with
a finer polish and crisper lines. the Tsukamaki is very tight, almost painfully tight but can be a bit
neater. since Hishigami aren't used the diamonds aren't as crisp or even as they could be.
The Kris Cutlery line of Katana are definitely meant for one thing, use, and it is obvious
as soon as you wield it that it is a total workhorse. utilitarian in design and execution,
from plain yet powerful fittings to the thick strong tsuka wrapped in tough synthetic Tsukaito
and the iron reiforced Saya. the steel is tough and forgiving while sporting medium Niku(meat).
I recently found out that the Tsuka lacks Same because the owner likes and respects fish so
did not want to use them for his swords. in it's place there is a fabric mesh sealed with lacquer,
it adequately serves it's purpose of protecting the wood and providing grip for the ito.
Historical Overview
I don't believe there is any particular historical example this model is based on and seems to
have elements from different time periods, regions and schools of sword smithing.
the Koshi-Zori is seen a lot in swords made by the schools of the Bizen region.
there almost seems to be Fumbari although not as large or obvious as most antique examples
so it might not qualify. it also reminds me of a Tachi that has been cut down(sorry, I forgot the
term..Uchigatana?) I'm not sure if the cylindrical Saya has any historical background but I've
read that the rounded or oval kojiri does.
a no frills solid workhorse Katana that while good to go right out of the box, is also one
of the best choices for customization. considering the fair price and strong and meaty
foundation, there is a lot of room for modification without having to break the bank.
let's take a closer look at the individual parts.
The Blade
you can clearly see the curve starting near the nakago as opposed to in the middle of the length
or near the tip of the blade. this is called Koshi Sori or Koshi-Zori
there is a nice tight and straight grain in this steel which under close inspection reveals a
unique banding structure.
the Hamon though hard to see normally will really pop with tons of detail with a simple
acid etching using vinegar or fcl. some owners havealso had success bringing out the Hamon
with a fingerstone polish. here is a picture of another KC blade after acid etching in vinegar
on the last few swords I picked up the Hamon was rising pretty high to the shinogi (one even going into
the shinogi-Ji) but this one has a very nicely steady and straight 1/4" thick Hamon visible
only at the right angles.
I really like the curved and relatively narrow nakago, it makes reshaping the Tsuka core easier without
the risk of going through the wood. it does not have Yasurime(file marks) which are found in different
patterns on many Nakago but it does have a nicely started patina which aids in a tight fit in the Tsuka.
there is no Mei(signature) present or any identifying marks other then the numbers in marker near the end(22).
you can see the width of the base of the blade changes within approximately 2" of the Mune-Machi.
it goes from 31mm to 29mm and then averages about 25mm to the Yokote. Fumbari?
I'm not sure since it is so subtle.
Mitsu-Mune
usually the spine of a Katana blade comes to an angled, two sided peak or is almost flat or slightly
rounded. you can see there is a flat center at the top with an angled edge to either side of it.
as with the polish in general, this mune isn't as crisp as some would like it.
Kissaki
accenting the geometry of the Kissaki
the shape/style of Kissaki is somewhere between a regular Chu-Kissaki(medium size with even curve)
to Kamasu-Kissaki(stright angle with little to no curve) and can vary slightly from piece to piece.
this never really bothered me but I guess if I had the choice, I would have it with more of a even curve.
Polish
in some areas of the blade surface there is an almost mirror polish as you can see here by the reflections.
I think what most people prefer is to not be able to feel waves or bumps along the length. this is the biggest
gripe with the polish on these swords.
Masame-Hada(stright grain in metal)
Tsuka
the Tsuka of the KC 5160 line are of Morozori style/shape(equally curved on top & bottom)
the Tsukamaki is alternating and very tight but do not use Hishigami in the folds.
I personally do not like the feel of the stock synthetic ito and have to change it out
before using for practice or cutting. it can be a bit rough on bare hands in my opinion as
well as feeling a little slick. sometimes the end knots are not on the correct sides and while
this makes no difference to me, it might bother some people. the lack of Samegawa is also
something I don't mind but this is because I modify it later on, plus, it would most likely add a
lot to the cost anyway. a fabric mesh material soaked with lacquer is used in place of Samegawa.
I'm not sure exactly what the fabric is made from and there has been speculation that it could be
fiberglass and epoxy but I don't believe so. probably just some cheesecloth and lacquer/shellac.
it's strong and does provide some grip for the Tsukaito.
the Menuki
the Menuki(handle ornaments) are usually some type of dragon but I have also had tigers on a
couple of swords. they are often made of brass or bronze and of decent to good quality with crisp
details. my favorite are the bright brass dragons because they are indeed a proper set and show great detail.
the Menuki on this sword are intertwined dragons facing each other and are made of bronze(I think)
but are not a real set as they are both identical. the Menuki seem to be randomly chosen from sword to sword.
the Tsuka core is thick and strong made from a good quality hardwood. you can see the core is numbered(22)
to fit with the matching blade and fittings. much like the wood for the Saya, the grain seems to be
matching from side to side and shows that the pieces are cut from the same block which is nice.
Tsuba
the Tsuba is blackened iron and 3" in diameter and 4mm thick with two small holes that I have seen
on a couple of antique Katana. they are not however Hitsuana(holes for Kozuka and Kogai but rather
Udenukiana which have been described as being a representation of the sun and moon and also meant
for tying wrist cords through or to just secure the sword in Saya. again, you can see the
number 22 stamped into the metal.
nicely rounded edge
Fuchi/ Kashira
plain blackened iron is the theme here. no frills but strong and meant for heavy use.
the Fuchi is made of two pieces and welded together. it is also numbered(22) though you can't see it here.
the Kashira
is solid iron and extremely strong but as you can see the holes could be a bit rough.
a little filing can remedy this if it bothers you.
Habaki
you will find brass Habaki on most production Katana with an occasional copper one but the KC
is equipped with a Habaki made of what else? that's right, steel. a little square and chunky with
a lack of shape or any fancy design, again we are reminded that this isn't a sword built for looks
but for business. it is roughly 3mm thick. the mune side has the same three facets as the mune of the blade
the fit is ok but on some I've seen pretty large gaps but because they ship them out with a shmear
of grease in there, I doubt much water will get underneath it while cutting wet targets.
this is also the first sword I've seen from KC without a slit for the Ha-Machi. I'm not sure why
Seppa
I love the solid brass Seppa used on these swords. they are thick, plain but unique and each one
is hand cut, sanded and matched for the individual sword, no cheap stamped tin gears here. you can
also notice that they are two different sizes as they are meant to fit with the specific shape of the
Tsuka and fittings. these are also ripe for easy modification like adding decorative file marks or other designs.
(numbered 22)
Mekugi
the two Mekugi are of excellent quality, thick and strong with a nicely cylindrical shape tapering near the end. they
are smoked bamboo and the ends are polished so they hold up very well over time with little to no damage from
the Mekuginuki.(brass removal hammer)
Saya
the Saya is of thick and strong mahogany wood with a clear coat of lacquer over the surface.
the Kurigata is black buffalo horn and Kojiri is solid blackened iron.
the Koiguchi is a blackened iron band instead of the more common horn which is more than
adequate for reinforcement of the Sayaguchi. I have had Saya with a tight fit while a few
including this one has a small rattle near the tip if shaken vigorously. I do not practice
any real form of JSA but I could understand if some that do might find the Saya too thick and round
to be comfortable. it's approximately 28mm near the koiguchi tapering to 22mm near the Kojiri.
of course it is also numbered 22.
I tried to capture the geometric Yokote with this piece of paper leaning on the flat blade surface. you can see
where the metal suddenly drops away from the paper.
Handling Characteristics
I find the 26" Nagasa perfect for me even though I think for my height of 5'11" I should be
using a slightly longer blade.
it is quick and easily manuverable while still feeling powerful. it is one of the best balanced
swords I've handled even compared to some swords more than twice the price. with a POB of
around 4 1/2" - 5" and weight of 2.6 Lbs, it is practically effortless to swing and cut with. it is
nimble enough to be wielded with one hand with practice.
the apple seed edge is deceptively sharp while maybe not necessarily paper shearing sharp. it will cut
light to heavy targets with little trouble, but with a simple stropping, it will even slice and dice
tricky pool noodles with ease. you might not be able to do multiple cuts with one hand while
talking on your cell phone and reading the paper but to preform some decent cutting you
might have to learn some basic cutting technique and practice it
the 5160 is a tough but also forgiving steel that will take a bend or set on a really bad cut rather than
snap or crack. Kris Cutlery guarantees their blades form breaking for up to a year with normal use.
this is a tough, if a little rough, everyday cutter that will probably be your go to blade for
years of reliable cutting. I just find it fun to use and no other sword feels quite as
right in my hands at this point.
Cutting
I have nowhere safe and or legal to cut and rarely get the opportunity to find a spot suitable.
unfortunately I have no pictures or video of this sword cutting anything but from past experience using
three other models I can say it cuts like a dream.
I have cut plastic bottles of all kinds, cardboard boxes, pool noodles and a few melons and
1" - 2 1/2" thick branches. I have also cut into cutting stands of wood and plastic with no
serious incidents. the worst of it was one set that I was able to take out with care and patience.
because of the Niku you really have to be aware of your edge alignment and follow through to make
clean or silent cuts but once you get used to it, the blade just slices away target after target.
Pros and Cons
Pros:
tough and durable everyday workhorse cutter
light, quick and easily manuverable
has features rarely seen on most other production swords in it's class
curved and comfortable Tsuka
under $300 including shipping (UPS ground)
best customer service around.....period
hand made in small batches by the same forge in the Philippines
geometric Yokote/Kissaki
tight Tsukamaki
Cons:
polish could be better including cross polished Kissaki and soft lines
fittings are plain
synthetic ito
no Samegawa
thick cylindrical Saya
no Sageo
does not come with accessories such as cleaning kit, stand or sword bag
Tsukamaki can be neater
Conclusion
I love this Katana for the quality craftsmanship and materials as well as the handling and performance.
since I wind up customizing them I don't mind the plain fittings and lack of accessories such as
Samegawa and sageo. I would like to see a slightly higher level of polish and crisper lines
but maybe not as much if the price were to rise much higher because of it.
IMHO this is a terrific sword to use everyday as well as a potentially stunning custom with some work.
I would highly recommend the Kris Cutlery 26A to those who care more about performance than looks
and accessories or to those who have the means to modify it to their liking. to those looking for a shorter
blade length, excellent balance
and easy maneuverability should also look into the 26A, 26II or 26III Katana.
I would not recommend this sword to anyone wanting or expecting an out of the box display sword
equipped with all the bells and whistles or one that is modeled after an historical example.
the polish and fittings could disappoint some folks and it's not winning an award for being pretty
anytime soon. but of course......beauty is in the eye of the beholder is it not?
An additional note on the 5160 line of Katana
there are two blade lengths, 26" & 29", and choices with or without Bo Hi plus two different Tsuka options,
standard Tsukamaki and spiral wrapped. all of these swords are produced in the Philippines and none are
available with Samegawa. these Katana are also not the same steel or forge as the folded steel line KC carries.
the swords with the folded steel and Samegawa and black lacquered Saya are produced by a forge in China.
the Katana 26A is available for $265 and $20 ground shipping plus there is a layaway option which can be very useful.
check out the full line of Kris Cutlery products here - kriscutlery.com/85.html
I think I covered everything important but could have missed a few things so just let me know and I'll be sure to add it.
all questions and comments are of course welcome and Thanks for reading.
-Josh