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Post by Deleted on Oct 7, 2011 8:31:55 GMT
So..I'm looking for a functional Rapier that doesn't cost too much. My friend wants to teach me the art...not a big fan of Rapiers, but I am a big fan of swords and until I find someone who wants to spar/teach with a Medieval sword..I'll do it.
So..I was looking at some Windlass ones for price and was wondering if the whippy concerns plague their Rapiers as well. I would prefer something around $150-200..nothing more. I do like that bone handled rapier from Windlass, but the cage is fricken huge!!
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Post by Vincent Dolan on Oct 7, 2011 8:42:25 GMT
This may sound stupid, but why Windlass? If you're looking for a sparring rapier, wouldn't a Hanwei Practical make more sense? You've got your choices between the Gustav, the Cup Hilt, the Practical, the Renaissance (with Epee Blade), the Renaissance (with Schlaeger Blade), the Solingen, the Swept Hilt, and the Torino. All of them are under 200$ and mainly around 150-160$; hell, the Practical's 100$. |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 7, 2011 8:52:45 GMT
Ya know..good question. Your post has put me into a new direction. Guess I thought Windlass would be the cheapest.
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Post by Vincent Dolan on Oct 7, 2011 8:55:57 GMT
Well, I don't know anything about Windlass rapiers (and I've heard good things about Hanwei's, if you don't mind a plastic grip, but that's an easy fix), but they have pointed tips, so I can't imagine they'd be too safe for sparring, even if they are unedged. The Hanwei's, however, have those flattened nail tips like you'll find on Arms & Armor practice blades and, I'm assuming, modern fencing foils.
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Post by Dave Kelly on Oct 7, 2011 10:17:30 GMT
VD is correct. Windlass makes live repros totally unsuitable for instruction. Hanwei is the cheapest production training resource I'm familiar with. Your partner have any recommendations?
Also, if anything like contact sparring is envisioned you'll need a mask, gloves, and some sort of plastron to protect your chest.
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Sean (Shadowhowler)
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Post by Sean (Shadowhowler) on Oct 7, 2011 13:23:21 GMT
As the others have said... go with hanwei.
Not only are they more affordable... but better made, as long as you stick with the Hanwei Bone Handed or Wood handled rapiers. Avoid the Hanwei rapiers with the hollow plastic grip... especially if you are going to use it a lot.
Another huge benefit to the hanwei rapiers is they offer replacement blades... so if you jack one up you need not buy a whole new sword. In addition, if you wish you could get a training blade and a live blade... so you can train and spar with the weapon and have a live blade for the same furniture. This is a big plus to me.
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Razor
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Post by Razor on Oct 8, 2011 2:42:16 GMT
You can also try looking at Zen Warrior Armory. zenwarriorarmory.com/You can get your rapier and all your gear from them. Make sure you get the schlager blade, the rapier blade is real stiff. And don't forget about putting a tip on the end of your blade. www.zenwarriorarmory.com/catalog ... egory%3D60 |
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Post by Elheru Aran on Oct 10, 2011 1:25:14 GMT
Re purchasing a Hanwei rapier:
It's almost ridiculously easy to replace the grips. They're all screw-on pommels from what I understand-- this is acceptable for a rapier as it's very rarely going to be used for cutting, less acceptable for a wider blade, and as such it's a simple matter to disassemble the sword. From that, simply stencil the tang onto a piece of wood twice, cut out two grip slabs and chisel out the slot for tang, then glue together slabs, shape, cover or whatever, assemble sword with new grip... poof. You now have a more functional rapier than you had before for only a few hours' labor.
Granted, the wire-wound grips are quite nicely done; it's really rather a shame Hanwei wasted them on cheap plastic cores. However, if you're willing to take a little extra time to make sure they fit right, it may be possible to at least remove the turks' head knots, wrap the new grip in wire and slip the turks' heads onto the new grip. A lot of people don't like wire grips, but if you're fencing with them you're almost certainly going to be wearing gloves so that's much less of an issue.
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Post by John P on Oct 11, 2011 23:38:29 GMT
I haven't tried any of the windlass rapiers. For our new rapier fighters on a budget I recommend the 37'' Hanwei Practical Rapier. It is super durable and has a nail head that you can wedge a rabbit blunt over it for more safety. I personally don't mind the plastic handle and have not had one come apart on me. I prefer a longer blade but the longer version of this sword is to flexible to effectively gain the blade. Dark wood armory is my preferred rapier but that will come in around $300. There is a lot of good advice in past threads on this forum for training literature. Here is the free guide my club put together www.worksofrichardmarsden.com/ba ... rapier.htm |
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Post by Bogus on Oct 14, 2011 2:44:25 GMT
Making a Hanwei rapier handle isn't really an option--there's a thin groove on the top of the handle that fits into the guard to keep it from wobbling, and it's basically impossible to cut wood thin enough to fit without breaking (Darkwood already tried). That's probably why they're using resin handles in the first place.
I don't really see the problem with them, though. I've had no issues with mine, and honestly if you're getting the sort of lateral force sufficient to damage a resin handle on a rapier, then you are doing it wrong. Likewise the screw-on pommel is, if anything, a plus since it allows you to easily swap out the blade for sparring without any special tools.
Nice guide BTW
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Post by jarmory19 on Oct 22, 2011 1:33:07 GMT
I know the census is a no on the Windlass rapiers but since the OP is about them, anyone know anything about the 17th Century Italian Windlass or have an opinion?
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