Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jul 7, 2011 4:44:45 GMT
I'm trying to decide on what my first real sword will be. I have an idea about what I want it to look like but I also want it to be durable enough for cutting. So far, most of the rapiers that I've looked at one this forum have been rated as suitable only for light cutting, and I'd like something a bit tougher.
As far as price, I'd like something under or $300. I don't really care about historical accuracy, I just want it to a practical and short sword that has an "antique" look to it. I've been having a tough time finding something that fits this description. There's not a lot of selection when it comes to rapiers and possibly even less when it comes to sabres and other more modern military swords. Any recommendations?
|
|
|
Post by Bogus on Jul 7, 2011 5:46:25 GMT
If you dig the rapier look but want something more cutty I would recommend a sidesword, its basically a shorter stockier rapier more suitable for balanced cut and thrust tactics. It's still not going to chop through dozens of tatami rolls in a single swing like a hardcore dedicated cutter, but it won't bounce off like a light rapier.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jul 7, 2011 6:09:16 GMT
Well, I've heard about the Hanwei Renaissance Sidesword but from what I've heard it's not ideal for cutting because of the material/weak points in the handle. Disregarding that little problem, it's probably something that I would want. I look around a bit more.
What about sabres and cutlasses? I've looked but like I said there doesn't seem to be much of a selection. I've looked around a bit on Kult of Athena but most of the sabres/cutlasses there are relatively cheap and I'm a bit iffy about buying one until I hear more.
|
|
|
Post by Dave Kelly on Jul 7, 2011 9:38:41 GMT
Not sure just what your historical period target might be for a "look". For your price point and concern about durability I'd stick with Cold Steel swords. Most of the angst about their durability has to do with their large two handed swords. And their advertising is bogus. But most of their one hand swords that I've handled and own are as good as what's available on the market for the pricepoint.
Infantry and naval weapons are traditionally shorter bladed than a cavalry weapon.
|
|
|
Post by Ninjadave89 on Jul 7, 2011 9:47:31 GMT
I wanted to get the Hanwei renaissance side sword but the plastic handle thing put me off, so I ordered the Windlass munich cut and thrust sword kultofathena.com/product.asp?item=501144. Its in customs at the moment so i don't know how good it is, it seems like a solid sword and the wide blade should mean it would be a decent cutter. Guess i'll find out when (or if) the evil customs people let me have it or not.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jul 7, 2011 17:14:45 GMT
Thanks for the link Ninjadave, and @ Dave Kelly all that I meant by "look" was that I don't want something with a modern design. I'll also look into the Cold Steel swords. Right now I'm taking a look at this sword and a few others like it, they've gotten very good reviews so I think that I've made up my mind for now.
|
|
|
Post by Dave Kelly on Jul 7, 2011 21:14:54 GMT
Modern is a tough descriptor as there are at least three distinct periods in 19th Century sword design.
The Cromwell is a very sexy "mortuary" little heavy, but it balances to the hand with a pob of about 2.5 inches. The plain mortuary is only about 2.1 lbs and has mor blade presence to assist cutting force.
Enjoy!
|
|
Luka
Senior Forumite
Posts: 2,848
|
Post by Luka on Jul 7, 2011 23:03:57 GMT
I love how the Cromwell feels in hand, but that grip is very uncomfortable without a glove. I don't have that sword but if I was to buy it I would put a leather grip covering on it... Or a fine wire wrap.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jul 7, 2011 23:31:16 GMT
D'oh I guess that I'm just ignorant when it comes to sword terminology. I just want something that looks "old" to an amateur like me, preferably a replica of some sort. As for the grip, I've heard some complaints about it but I think that I can live with it. Worst case scenario is that I'd have to wear gloves or get a leather grip.
|
|
|
Post by Dave Kelly on Jul 8, 2011 0:50:52 GMT
The wearing of gauntlets was commonplace for the period.
|
|
Razor
Senior Forumite
Posts: 1,883
|
Post by Razor on Jul 8, 2011 4:32:25 GMT
I have a Cromwell, and I like mine a lot. The grip can be hard on your hands but your hand will toughen up. And the grip can be hard on your leather gloves too. I already worn out a pair from the grip.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jul 9, 2011 6:34:36 GMT
This sword also looks nice, based on what I gathered from the description it's essentially a rapier with a broadsword blade. Unfortunately, I vomited all over my keyboard when I saw the price tag and wasn't able to place my order. :cry: It's a quite a lit larger than what I was looking for anyways.
|
|
|
Post by Dave Kelly on Jul 9, 2011 10:01:05 GMT
Arms and Armor is one of the oldest of the up scale recreation armorers. This is the big league stuff in the market, and at that Craig Johnson has managed to keep his cost down compared to others. At 3.6 lbs most people would have a hard time weilding such a sword. It has a baby brother at the A&A site. It's a $1000, without a scabbard.
|
|
|
Post by Cole Chang on Jul 11, 2011 17:07:15 GMT
Hey there, I just wanted to put my two cents in. It seems to me from your original post that you seem a bit undecided on the type of sword you want. You first mention rapiers, but are not too happy with them as cutters. Then you mention sabres which are better cutters. Size seems to be an issue too...hmmm... Well, if you've been looking at Cold Steel products, you may have come across these: www.ltspecpro.com/products/389-1917-saber.aspxwww.ltspecpro.com/products/392-c ... saber.aspx www.ltspecpro.com/products/273-1917-cutlass.aspxOr for straight swords: Check out any of the swords from Valiant Armoury...www.valiant-armoury.com. My personal favourite from them is The Warder, from the Valhala line, but that's basically a hand and a half sabre, and its based of the Eye of the World series. Personally, I keep coming up against the same thing...I can't decide what I like better, a straight sword, or a curved blade. Both have their pros and cons, but if you're a beginner like me, and you want to cut with your sword, you might want to start with a curved sword as they tend to be more forgiving for novice cutters. What I would do is make a check list of things you want. Something like this: 1. Western or Asian? 2. Weight? 3. Optimal length? 4. One hand or two, or bastard? 5. Are you going to do a lot of backyard cutting with it? 6. Are you going to wear the sword? 7. What kind of hilt/guard do you like? Fancy (rennaisance) or plain cross (medival)? For me, the weight is always the clincher. I'm not very strong and I'm rather short, so even if I really like the medival swords and the rennaisance type hilts, I have to be careful of the weight...which is why my next sword is going to be a jian...go figure! Thanks Cole
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jul 13, 2011 4:04:10 GMT
Heh, I am. I really just want something that's ascetically pleasing to me, while still being practical- I was being a little vague so I'll answer your questions to give everyone a better idea.
1. Western or Asian? -Western
2. Weight? -about two pounds or so, possible less
3. Optimal length? -two to four feet
4. One hand or two, or bastard? -one hand
5. Are you going to do a lot of backyard cutting with it? -yes
6. Are you going to wear the sword? -no, not important to me at all
7. What kind of hilt/guard do you like? Fancy (rennaisance) or plain cross (medival)? -something besides a cross, so rennaisance. I'm a big fan of the mortuary hilt as well.
...and to add a bit more I'd prefer a straight blade. However I only prefer them because of aesthetics so if curved swords are easier to cut with I'll reconsider.
Yeah, I've handled a long sword before and it felt unwieldy. I don't know if it was just a heavy sword of what, but short swords are much easier for me to control and handle.
|
|
|
Post by Cole Chang on Jul 19, 2011 9:59:02 GMT
Hmmm, a western type sword at 2lbs or less...You sound like me a couple of years ago! I too was looking for a western style sword, but couldn't find one to match my dimensions. I have a cheap Chinatown sword that basically looks like a ranger sword made for an elf or a gnome. It's actually one of my favourite swords to look at cause it actually matches everything I wanted. It has a simple cross hilt (wouldn't have mind a swept hilt like a rapier), broad blade that tapers to a nice point, and a handle that can fit two smallish hands. I'll take a picture of it one day so that you can see what I mean. If I could ever get someone to make me a functional version of it, I would die happy!
Anyway, you have a tough search, and you might need to bend a bit on your specs. I think the fancier hilts tend to add weight to the swords in order to make the POB closer, which makes for a livelier point.
I'll do some searching, and hopefully someone else here might have some ideas too.
|
|
|
Post by Pogo4321 on Jul 20, 2011 0:39:43 GMT
You might look at this one. It's not in stock right now and will need sharpening but it's a great little sword that meets most of your specs: www.kultofathena.com/product.asp ... War+Hanger also Windlass has a number of Saber types such as their United States Dragoon or their "Pirate" swords that also fit most of your criteria.
|
|
|
Post by paulrward on Jul 25, 2011 4:54:20 GMT
Dear Mr. KoreanGuy; Perhaps one of the cavalry sabers from the turn of the last century might be what you are looking for. I suggest you look into the British Pattern 1908 / 1912 saber, the U.S. Army M1913 " Patton Saber", the Swedish or Spanish Sabers, all of which are straight sabers with a 'bell' type guard, and can be used for both cutting and thrusting. All of them are on the order of 42-44 inches overall length, with blade lengths of about 34- 36 inches, have good balances, and would make an excellent battlesword. I would caution, however, that some of the reproductions made in India are not properly tempered, and are more like sword shaped objects than real swords. But, if you can find a vintage one of the above swords in good condition on the Bay, it might be a good investment. If you have any more questions, you can PM me at: paulrward@outdrs.netRespectfully; Paul R. Ward
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Oct 23, 2011 2:15:08 GMT
My first sword was the U.S. dragoon saber that's on Kult of Athena. It looks really neat and it's hardy enough for cutting. I thinks its under $200 depending on where you are shipping to.
|
|
|
Post by S. Thomas on Oct 24, 2011 16:19:22 GMT
This was also one of the two first sabres I ever bought, along with the 1860 Light Cavalry sabre, both from KOA. The Dragoon Sabre was on sale because of some rust at the tip of the scabbard. It`s quite unwieldy, but I think it would have performed well in the cavalry charge. Almost useless as a cutter "wrap rubber-like around a man’s head and was only good for cutting warm butter" musketoon.com/2005/01/18/what-is-a-dragoon/This sabre gives me an idea of what Cold Steel`s 1904 Austrian and 1852 Prussian sabres handle like. They`re all pipebacks of close to the same length. Dave Kelly has informed us previously that the Prussian is actually a later scaled-down version from the 1870s. The forward point of balance on these is off-putting to me. I`d like a fencible sabre. KOA has minimal stats for the Prussian, but I suspect it`s comparable to the Austrian and the 1833 Dragoon.
|
|