Munetoshi: Beater Series
Sept 8, 2010 21:35:23 GMT
Post by Deleted on Sept 8, 2010 21:35:23 GMT
Hey gang!
So my first katana arrived today, courtesy of Jonis, of the youtube group UBC, and Sword-n-armory for donating the sword to the cause. Without further ado, I give you the review:
Preface:
I am not an eastern sword guy. I appreciate them as blades from another culture, but I can not tell you a hi from a bo-hi or name all the parts of a katana from memory. So for the purpose of this review, I am going to throw naming conventions out the window and review this blade in terms more in line with western blades.
Introduction:
So I obtained this sword by winning a contest. However, had I not won it, I still would have bought it. Here's the link
www.swordnarmory.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=JH-3102-H&Show=TechSpecs
Also, they are currently having a sale on their Bushido Beater (The only difference I can tell is the scabbard.) That can be found here:
www.swordnarmory.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=JH-3102-B&Show=TechSpecs
The Beater usually sells for $99 and some change, but swordandarmory is having a $20 off sale on the Bushido. If you've been wanting an inexpensive katana, other then a differentialy hardened Musashi, then this would be the way to go.
Historical Overview:
I can't really comment here. Like I said, I'm not an eastern sword nut. But everything on this sword could have been made in futile Japan. There are no alloys or synthetic parts.
Initial Impressions:
The sword had arrived in a nondescript long box. It was 2nd hand packing, so I can't comment on how the blade would come from a vendor. After taking it out of it's sword bag, the first thing that I noticed was the incredibly snug fit between the sword and the scabbard. It wasn't 'hard' to get out, but it wasn't going to accidentally come out on it's own.
I then proceeded to wiggle various bits and pieces and everything was just tight. I had expected for an inexpensive sword to have some play in the guard or something.
Stats:
I'm lazy, so here:
And stats from the vendor site:
* Overall Length: 39.25 "
* Blade: Very Sharp
* Nagasa Length: 28.75 "
* Blade Material: 1065 Carbon Steel
* Tsuka Length: 10.5 "
* Niku: Light Niku
* Blade Thickness @ Habaki: 0.307 "
* Sori: 0.4 "
* Blade Thickness @ Kissaski: 0.224 "
* Kissaki Length: 1.7 "
* Blade Width @ Habaki: 1.217 "
* Lamination: Through Hardened Maru
* Blade Width @ Kissaki: 0.880 "
* Hamon: Aesthetic Gunome
* Weight W/O Saya: 2.15 LBS, 34.4 Ounces
* Balance Point: 6 " from Tsuba
* Tsuba Material: Steel Alloy
* Hardness of Yakiba: 48 HRC
* Ito & Sageo Material: Chemical Fiber
* Fuchi Kashira Material: Steel Alloy
* Sword Name: Honor Beater
* Mekugi: Double Pinned
* Collection: Yuki
* Condition: Brand New
* Manufacturer: Munetoshi
A few notes on the stats. Whatever steel alloy they used for the Tsuba is ferrous (reacts to a magnet). And you might have noticed that the numbers don't match up on the certificate and the stats from the vendor site. Well, there's variations enough that my blade actually comes in shy of 39". Also, I know I also said that I would keep this review free of Japanese terms, well, I forgot about the copy/paste stats... sori.
Pictures and commentary:
Now lets get a little less formal with the review and I'm just gonna start showing some pictures and commenting on em.
So last night I decided to take my katana apart... because it's so easy... or at least that's what I thought. I tapped out the pegs with no trouble, but then when I went to remove the handle, it didn't budge. My first thought was "Oh great, turns out this is one of tho's threaded pommel katanas." But that was not the case.
Below you will see two pictures showing what kept my grip from sliding off.
I believe that the handle was placed over the tang before anyone drilled the holes. This had to have been the case because I could not imagine anyone pounding the handle onto the tang and thinking "Yeah, this feels right."
But again, they had to cut costs somewhere. I fixed this by taking a flap sanding wheel on my dremmel and smoothing the metal back down. Oh, and I had to clamp the blade in a rubber vice in order to separate the two parts. When I finally pulled the handle off, there were plenty of metal shavings and saw dust that came out with them. So if you do get this blade, expect as much.
Now that the grip is off, I had noticed another "issue":
Yep, some mild corrosion on the tang. I also saw that the blade was stamped 0060, which was nice to know that it was individualized. The corrosion wasn't anything to get upset over. A quick pass with a wire brush wheel and I couldn't tell it had been rusty at all.
While we have the handle off, lets look at the maker's marks and all that.
Also, while we are here, lets look at the shoulders where the tang meets the blade. They are rounded, which will keep the stresses on the metal to a minimum.
The furniture of the sword is done up in a crane style. All in all, appealing to the eye, but something that I had noticed was that there was a grime of sort coating the whole thing. I'm not sure if this was intended artificial aging, or if it was a result of moisture.
If you'll notice on that last picture, the crane seems to be more silvery then the rest of the buttcap. This was the result of a wire wheel, which I later took to all the furniture. Everything but the guard (tsuba) showed the silvery color after working it on the wheel. The guard still benefited from the wheel, but not as much.
Now lets talk about some possible bads.
First I present the handle. The wrap was loose enough to allow the buttplate some wiggle room. The rayskin wrap appears more as a rayskin sandwich with either side of the wooden core showing through, I'm not sure if this is normal as far as katana standards go, but I thought a wrap implied 'all the way around'. The butt plate also had a 'lip' on it, that once the plate came loose, the lip dug into my palms during use. Again, this is something that a small file could fix.
Sandwich rayskin:
Butt plate lip:
And now the scabbard. Yes, some may not like it, and I'm one of them. It's not enough to make me sick to my stomach, but I am more of the type that appreciate function over form. It holds my sword, I'm happy.
But the stylization for the word "Honor" on one side is kinda ugly. If they would have chosen a cleaner style, I wouldn't be making plans to fix it. (Wood puddy and paint)
So that about wraps it up. I left out the sword bag on accident, but it's not much to write home about. It's a cotton bag with a string on it, used to hold a katana.
Pros:
-Inexpensive
-Solid Blade
-Great fit (aside from the wrap)
Cons:
-Cutting cost in production shows
-Loose wrap
-Sharp corner on butt plate
-Excess metal on peg hole
Conclusion:
I'd recommend this blade to anyone who is on a tight budget, but still wants a katana. With a file and a little work, this sword can become a very good friend.
So my first katana arrived today, courtesy of Jonis, of the youtube group UBC, and Sword-n-armory for donating the sword to the cause. Without further ado, I give you the review:
Preface:
I am not an eastern sword guy. I appreciate them as blades from another culture, but I can not tell you a hi from a bo-hi or name all the parts of a katana from memory. So for the purpose of this review, I am going to throw naming conventions out the window and review this blade in terms more in line with western blades.
Introduction:
So I obtained this sword by winning a contest. However, had I not won it, I still would have bought it. Here's the link
www.swordnarmory.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=JH-3102-H&Show=TechSpecs
Also, they are currently having a sale on their Bushido Beater (The only difference I can tell is the scabbard.) That can be found here:
www.swordnarmory.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=JH-3102-B&Show=TechSpecs
The Beater usually sells for $99 and some change, but swordandarmory is having a $20 off sale on the Bushido. If you've been wanting an inexpensive katana, other then a differentialy hardened Musashi, then this would be the way to go.
Historical Overview:
I can't really comment here. Like I said, I'm not an eastern sword nut. But everything on this sword could have been made in futile Japan. There are no alloys or synthetic parts.
Initial Impressions:
The sword had arrived in a nondescript long box. It was 2nd hand packing, so I can't comment on how the blade would come from a vendor. After taking it out of it's sword bag, the first thing that I noticed was the incredibly snug fit between the sword and the scabbard. It wasn't 'hard' to get out, but it wasn't going to accidentally come out on it's own.
I then proceeded to wiggle various bits and pieces and everything was just tight. I had expected for an inexpensive sword to have some play in the guard or something.
Stats:
I'm lazy, so here:
And stats from the vendor site:
* Overall Length: 39.25 "
* Blade: Very Sharp
* Nagasa Length: 28.75 "
* Blade Material: 1065 Carbon Steel
* Tsuka Length: 10.5 "
* Niku: Light Niku
* Blade Thickness @ Habaki: 0.307 "
* Sori: 0.4 "
* Blade Thickness @ Kissaski: 0.224 "
* Kissaki Length: 1.7 "
* Blade Width @ Habaki: 1.217 "
* Lamination: Through Hardened Maru
* Blade Width @ Kissaki: 0.880 "
* Hamon: Aesthetic Gunome
* Weight W/O Saya: 2.15 LBS, 34.4 Ounces
* Balance Point: 6 " from Tsuba
* Tsuba Material: Steel Alloy
* Hardness of Yakiba: 48 HRC
* Ito & Sageo Material: Chemical Fiber
* Fuchi Kashira Material: Steel Alloy
* Sword Name: Honor Beater
* Mekugi: Double Pinned
* Collection: Yuki
* Condition: Brand New
* Manufacturer: Munetoshi
A few notes on the stats. Whatever steel alloy they used for the Tsuba is ferrous (reacts to a magnet). And you might have noticed that the numbers don't match up on the certificate and the stats from the vendor site. Well, there's variations enough that my blade actually comes in shy of 39". Also, I know I also said that I would keep this review free of Japanese terms, well, I forgot about the copy/paste stats... sori.
Pictures and commentary:
Now lets get a little less formal with the review and I'm just gonna start showing some pictures and commenting on em.
So last night I decided to take my katana apart... because it's so easy... or at least that's what I thought. I tapped out the pegs with no trouble, but then when I went to remove the handle, it didn't budge. My first thought was "Oh great, turns out this is one of tho's threaded pommel katanas." But that was not the case.
Below you will see two pictures showing what kept my grip from sliding off.
I believe that the handle was placed over the tang before anyone drilled the holes. This had to have been the case because I could not imagine anyone pounding the handle onto the tang and thinking "Yeah, this feels right."
But again, they had to cut costs somewhere. I fixed this by taking a flap sanding wheel on my dremmel and smoothing the metal back down. Oh, and I had to clamp the blade in a rubber vice in order to separate the two parts. When I finally pulled the handle off, there were plenty of metal shavings and saw dust that came out with them. So if you do get this blade, expect as much.
Now that the grip is off, I had noticed another "issue":
Yep, some mild corrosion on the tang. I also saw that the blade was stamped 0060, which was nice to know that it was individualized. The corrosion wasn't anything to get upset over. A quick pass with a wire brush wheel and I couldn't tell it had been rusty at all.
While we have the handle off, lets look at the maker's marks and all that.
Also, while we are here, lets look at the shoulders where the tang meets the blade. They are rounded, which will keep the stresses on the metal to a minimum.
The furniture of the sword is done up in a crane style. All in all, appealing to the eye, but something that I had noticed was that there was a grime of sort coating the whole thing. I'm not sure if this was intended artificial aging, or if it was a result of moisture.
If you'll notice on that last picture, the crane seems to be more silvery then the rest of the buttcap. This was the result of a wire wheel, which I later took to all the furniture. Everything but the guard (tsuba) showed the silvery color after working it on the wheel. The guard still benefited from the wheel, but not as much.
Now lets talk about some possible bads.
First I present the handle. The wrap was loose enough to allow the buttplate some wiggle room. The rayskin wrap appears more as a rayskin sandwich with either side of the wooden core showing through, I'm not sure if this is normal as far as katana standards go, but I thought a wrap implied 'all the way around'. The butt plate also had a 'lip' on it, that once the plate came loose, the lip dug into my palms during use. Again, this is something that a small file could fix.
Sandwich rayskin:
Butt plate lip:
And now the scabbard. Yes, some may not like it, and I'm one of them. It's not enough to make me sick to my stomach, but I am more of the type that appreciate function over form. It holds my sword, I'm happy.
But the stylization for the word "Honor" on one side is kinda ugly. If they would have chosen a cleaner style, I wouldn't be making plans to fix it. (Wood puddy and paint)
So that about wraps it up. I left out the sword bag on accident, but it's not much to write home about. It's a cotton bag with a string on it, used to hold a katana.
Pros:
-Inexpensive
-Solid Blade
-Great fit (aside from the wrap)
Cons:
-Cutting cost in production shows
-Loose wrap
-Sharp corner on butt plate
-Excess metal on peg hole
Conclusion:
I'd recommend this blade to anyone who is on a tight budget, but still wants a katana. With a file and a little work, this sword can become a very good friend.