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Post by Deleted on Jan 1, 2010 3:11:44 GMT
Having a soft spot for sabers (and affordable swords!) I have often wondered about the hilt and tang construction of the Windlass Civil War Swords. I have read that the actual grip is leather over plastic, and the tang appears peened, but how much tang is hidden underneath? I would be estatic if the tang follows the profile of the grip... but doubt I'm that lucky, so... Has anyone dismounted these swords to the point that they can answer this?
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Post by Deleted on Jan 1, 2010 3:24:55 GMT
I'm not sure, I like their Model 1850 Army S&F sword, but the idea that it's probably a plastic grip pretty much ruins any historical value to me. I'm sure plastic is better than wood, but it makes it seem like a toy or something, lol! (I was actually just about to ask this question until I saw your post...)
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Post by Deleted on Jan 1, 2010 12:41:05 GMT
From what I've heard, they're quite solid. There's a review for the now-OOP Trooper's sword and the 1860 right on the front page.
M.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 26, 2010 3:59:02 GMT
Hey y'all, I have owned like five of the 1860 Cav sabers from MRL (Windless). I loved them and they were well made and solid. I gave them all away as gifts eventually but kept one for my personal training/fighting sabre. I have the Cold Steel DVD set "Fighting with the Sabre and Cutlass" and practice with that and using my own reenacting training ("Cookes Cav Tactics" 1862). I have handled and practiced with this sabre so much(off and on for two or three years or more) I have worn a raw place in the leather grip covering and the handle is still just as tight as when I bought it. No play, no looseness, etc.. Just a good solid fighting sabre and handle!
I did a review of it some time back and a comparison review of an original 1860 Lt. Cav sabre made by H. Boker, Germany.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 30, 2010 23:50:42 GMT
Hey y'all, I have owned like five of the 1860 Cav sabers from MRL (Windless). I loved them and they were well made and solid. I gave them all away as gifts eventually but kept one for my personal training/fighting sabre. I have the Cold Steel DVD set "Fighting with the Sabre and Cutlass" and practice with that and using my own reenacting training ("Cookes Cav Tactics" 1862). I have handled and practiced with this sabre so much(off and on for two or three years or more) I have worn a raw place in the leather grip covering and the handle is still just as tight as when I bought it. No play, no looseness, etc.. Just a good solid fighting sabre and handle! I did a review of it some time back and a comparison review of an original 1860 Lt. Cav sabre made by H. Boker, Germany. Did you ever notice any rotational movement where the tang is peened and mated to the brass guard? When you torque the handle(s) did you observe any movement at this juncture? How critical is this? I have noticed that the Cold Steel sabers (1830 Napolean and their Heavy Saber) have what appears to be some kind of screw-in securing system. Is this a-historical?
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Post by Deleted on May 1, 2010 2:06:59 GMT
Hey LarryJordan, No, there is no looseness or twisting, etc.. Just as tight as the say I bought it two or three years ago. That screw in tang nut you mentiond on Cold Steel sabre seems to be the way a lot of repros are made. Screw on nut on tang at butt of handle and then ground down and polished to looked good. I am no expert on originals so I can not say if that is authentic or not. I was under the impression that the originals were peened or welded at that point. I just don't know for sure. I personally don't care as long as it is done well, solid and stays tight and all.
Over the last two or years I have practiced with my MRL sabre, swung it, went through all the movements, parries, strikes, cuts, thrusts, etc, in the air and striking the rubber tires hung on my "pell" and it has never loosened up. I am well satisfied with my mrl sabre, especially for $98.00 bucks (what it was when I bought it).
A while back I ordered me a Cold Steel Hvy Cav sabre. Right off the bat the guts came out of the scabbard too; little strips of plastiv held down by little sticky squares along the insides of the scabbard to hold the sabre in place. That all came out. And it came with a dip or sunk in spot in the edge like someone had ground too much on that spot. I sent it back. They were nice as heck when I called and all and sent me one right back. The dip, just shallower, was in the same spot on the edge. Like someone had ground the surrounding area to reduce the effect of the dip. Or else they all must come with that in the edge. Anyway, with just minimal handling the handle loosened up enough to be ale to feel and hear it click slightly. I got rid of the piece of crap. I would rather have my MRL sabre. If I had to really fight I would choose the MRL one; lighter, more handy and manouverable, etc.. Later, Freebooter
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Post by Kilted Cossack on May 1, 2010 4:42:02 GMT
I don't have a Windlass Civil War saber, but I do have the Windlass American Revolutionary War saber----and it's got a good, solid peen. It's stood up to a good bit of cutting, bottles and bamboo and (thin) branches and vines.
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Post by Deleted on May 1, 2010 13:40:51 GMT
Hello all, While I love my MRL sabre, and others I have had, they all (repros) have the same type of blade thickness and distal taper, about a 3/16" thickness from hilt to near the point then distally tapers. Makes 'em slight blade heavy. The originals are like dang near 1/4" at hilt and distally taper to point, making for a much better balance and handling capabilities. With today's technology and ease of manufacture, why in the heck can't they get the blade dimensions like the originals. I have done revies hee on my sabre and a comparison review of the MRL and an original (both 1860 Lt. Cav sabres) made by H. Boker of Solingen, Germany (got it marked on the blade). That Boker is the most well balanced and handling sabre I have ever held, and I have owned three originals made by Ames.
I wish one of the original companies would put out an "accurate" repro of the 1860 kut cav sabre, with the exact same dimensions of blade as the originals. I had an Ames repro, or "continued construction", sabre and the blade was like other repros, 3/16" from hilt all the way to about 8-10" from point. I found out their blades are made in India and imported and assembled at Ames' shop, where the hilts and handles are still made. But Speaking of Boker swords, I have written to Boker two different times over the last two or three years asking about their records of sabres made for America in the 1860s, the possibility of a repro, or shall we say a resumption of production, of their 1860 Lt. Cav sabre. They never dained to answer me, which to me speaks of their honor and charactor. Their knives are over priced in my opinion anyway! Later Freebooter
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Post by Deleted on May 4, 2010 0:25:18 GMT
Hey LarryJordan, No, there is no looseness or twisting, etc.. Just as tight as the say I bought it two or three years ago. That screw in tang nut you mentiond on Cold Steel sabre seems to be the way a lot of repros are made. Screw on nut on tang at butt of handle and then ground down and polished to looked good. I am no expert on originals so I can not say if that is authentic or not. I was under the impression that the originals were peened or welded at that point. I just don't know for sure. I personally don't care as long as it is done well, solid and stays tight and all. Over the last two or years I have practiced with my MRL sabre, swung it, went through all the movements, parries, strikes, cuts, thrusts, etc, in the air and striking the rubber tires hung on my "pell" and it has never loosened up. I am well satisfied with my mrl sabre, especially for $98.00 bucks (what it was when I bought it). A while back I ordered me a Cold Steel Hvy Cav sabre. Right off the bat the guts came out of the scabbard too; little strips of plastiv held down by little sticky squares along the insides of the scabbard to hold the sabre in place. That all came out. And it came with a dip or sunk in spot in the edge like someone had ground too much on that spot. I sent it back. They were nice as heck when I called and all and sent me one right back. The dip, just shallower, was in the same spot on the edge. Like someone had ground the surrounding area to reduce the effect of the dip. Or else they all must come with that in the edge. Anyway, with just minimal handling the handle loosened up enough to be ale to feel and hear it click slightly. I got rid of the piece of crap. I would rather have my MRL sabre. If I had to really fight I would choose the MRL one; lighter, more handy and manouverable, etc.. Later, Freebooter I recall reading about your agony with the CS Heavy Saber scabbard. Wouldn't one experience the possibility of similar issues with the Windlass version? It looks like the same sword, apart from some minor technical differences (1065 vs. 1055, peen vs. screw-in, 7.3mm blade thickness at guard vs. 8.6mm). I don't see how the scabbards would not be the same, with the same internals and potential problems.
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Post by Deleted on May 6, 2010 2:09:37 GMT
Hello, That CS sabre ws their heavy cav sabre and MRL's is an 1860 Lt. Cav Sabre. The former is a lot heavier and bulky feeling to me. Well balanced and all, but not as light and handy as the MRl Lt. Cav sabre. So far, the MRL sabre's scabbard has given me no trouble. But is looser than I like too. FB
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Post by Deleted on May 6, 2010 16:45:53 GMT
Hello, That CS sabre ws their heavy cav sabre and MRL's is an 1860 Lt. Cav Sabre. The former is a lot heavier and bulky feeling to me. Well balanced and all, but not as light and handy as the MRl Lt. Cav sabre. So far, the MRL sabre's scabbard has given me no trouble. But is looser than I like too. FB I thought you were referring to the sword that is called the "1840 Heavy Cavalry Saber" at KoA. If you visually examine it and compare its specs with the CS "1860 Hvy Cav Saber", you'll see they have few differences. I was considering buying one or the other, but could not decide, so I purchased instead the 1860 Lt. Cav. Saber that Kreigschwert reviewed awhile back. The handle/guard of the sword I received from KoA has a less-than-perfect peen and creeks when one swings it. I can hear/feel the slight movement on initiation and termination of the swing. I'm trying to decide what to do with it: return/replace it or what.
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