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Post by Deleted on Jun 30, 2009 16:23:02 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Jun 30, 2009 17:11:57 GMT
If you really want a good viking sword, I suggest the CAS/Tinker viking sword. It does cost a little more than what you want, but I think that you will be immensely satisfied with it. Generation 2 and Darksword Armory both have some good viking swords at about the same price as the CAS/Tinker. Here is the link to the Tinker, if you want to look at it. www.christianfletcher.com/Christian_Fletcher/Tinker_9th_Century_Viking_Sharp.htmlMake sure that you look at sword-buyers-guide.com in the viking section.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 30, 2009 17:22:35 GMT
Alright, I do like that one, but its not just a little more than what I want, its almost twice as much! ;D At that price range I think I would get a CS or a Gen 2. I really like the Gen 2 vikings and I have had great experiences with other blades in 5150 and 5160.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 30, 2009 17:45:38 GMT
Hey Herb, for what you're looking for, the Tinker will be the best one of the bunch, hands down. It will be as close to 'period accurate' in terms of heft, balance and cutting ability that you're likely to find in that price range. Gen2 offerings tend to be very heavy, very crow-bar like as does CS.
What you do plan to do with it? If you're joining a Viking reenactment group, go with the Gen2 - especially if they're into steel on steel combat; it will be the sturdiest of the aforementioned offerings. If you intend to do some backyard cutting, go with the Tinker. If you just want a good looking, mostly period accurate sword, go with the Tinker.
Remember, you get what you pay for.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 30, 2009 17:56:55 GMT
I don't really plan on joining any groups. I just want a real sword that looks pretty good and is fully functional. I don't want it to break hacking through a dowel, or a watermelon, or a sapling. The historical accuracy is not terribly important to me at this point. I just chose the viking pattern because it is pleasing to me. The refinement issues you have with Gen 2 and CS are probably legitimate concerns, but I'm not really worried about them. It doesn't have to be great, just good enough for now.
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Post by Tom K. (ianflaer) on Jun 30, 2009 18:37:18 GMT
while I'm sure the Tinker is most likely to be the best of the bunch that IS twice his budgeted range. so to address the ones you are looking at:
Strong blades have had mixed reviews here. it seems like they are on the right track but not quite there yet. also be careful to note if your sword is tempered or not. (really what you want is heat-treated AND tempered but they just call it tempered). strongblade offers many of their swords in un-heat treated state which is really no good for cutting or using at all and basically a high carbon wall-hanger. I don't know much about their viking sword. I'll try to take a look at it in a minute but my connection. . . ok I've looked at it. it does have a tempered option (make sure you take it) and it is a reasonable weight. I don't think it looks to be the right blade type but I could be wrong and it you like then who cares. this looks like a decent option.
in looking at the swordsdirect norseman I see that it is an old Valiant Armory model. VA is doing some great things now that Sonny Suttles has taken over it but the stuff they made before he took over (like the sword you linked) is mostly garbage. but don't take my word for it, take a look at the specs: Overall Length: 34.75" Blade Length: 28" Handle Length: 6.75" Handle Material: Leather Wrapped Macassar Ebony Cross Guard: 3.5" Blade Material: Hand hammer forged carbon steel Weight: 4 lbs. 3oz. Sheath Included: Genuine leather wrapped . . .
wait a second FOUR POUNDS THREE OUNCES!!!!!!!!!!!!! my brother, that is going to waaaaaay too heavy. in fact that would be a good weight for TWO of those swords. don't get that one it is unswingable. heck the VA signature Castile is a heavier than I like but useable at a full pound less than this one. avoid! avoid!
the next V.A. sword is the same story but lighter at 3lbs 10 but it comes with a very plain and ugely set of furniture and a leather grip that looks smooth and slick. yeah, don't get that one either. I don't think you'll like it.
now we get to Kris Cutlery. their stuff tends to be plain, but their stuff tends to be REALLY GOOD. if you can get one of theirs at a price you can afford then I'd advise that for sure.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 30, 2009 18:56:21 GMT
Grow stronger? Yeah, some of the nicer viking swords I've looked at came in at around 2 1/2 pounds. How can a company sell a line that is a total POS and another line that works very well, but sell both as real swords?
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Post by shadowhowler on Jun 30, 2009 19:03:16 GMT
Grow stronger? Yeah, some of the nicer viking swords I've looked at came in at around 2 1/2 pounds. How can a company sell a line that is a total POS and another line that works very well, but sell both as real swords? Well, for one thing, ones mans total POS is another mans 'Aw cool, check out my awesome sword...' really, it all depends what your looking for. The Kris Cutlery Viking sword is way more then your stated budget of 150 also, BTW.
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Post by Tom K. (ianflaer) on Jun 30, 2009 19:26:37 GMT
He linked it so I thought maybe he found it for a discount or scratch and dent. if so then jump on it, I say.
on V.A. you gotta understand that these swords are pretty much normal for what they used to sell before Sonny took over. Sonny has made some great changes and is putting out great swords. all the same Valiant still has a lot of stock from the old lines hanging around. it would be a poor business move indeed to throw them all away instead of selling what they can of them. and as Shadow howler said some people may like them. I don't think they will be people who want to cut with them though. I don't know. new is new, old is old.
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Post by shadowhowler on Jun 30, 2009 20:18:32 GMT
He linked it so I thought maybe he found it for a discount or scratch and dent. if so then jump on it, I say. Tisk Tisk Tom... do your research. I thought of that, and checked the link, it is not for sale. Gezz... getting sloppy in your old age.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 30, 2009 20:48:08 GMT
The VA pre-sonny line is umm...not very good. IF you can get the kris viking sword for around 150 bucks, jump on it. No comment of strongblade as I haven't seen on in person...but the picture I have seen of it...it look ugly. I mean really poorly done. Deepka looks better and that makes me sad You may wanna spend a bit more and go windlass.The swedish viking sword is $189.95 at KoA and a member has had good things to say about that sword. And I do kinda like how the five lobed one looks at 10 bucks less...but have no idea if it's a good windlass or not. The gen 2 isn't bad per say...but it is a bit heavy and a bit unwieldy...but it does come with a very nicely done edge. Kris is the only other one in the sub 300 range that comes with such a nice edge. Unless you can sharpen a sword yourself, don't underestimate how valueable this is. Forget CS...if your gonna spend that much, get the hanwei tinker viking. for a mere 10 bucks more. Swing at a 2x4 will cause most swords to implode...eventually. Also cutting sapling is unsafe as well (unknown thickness and variable density...also visability issues usually). Please take a look at the sword safety thread. /index.cgi?board=swordtraining&action=display&thread=9916And why you should worry about safety so much...(graphic images) /index.cgi?board=general&action=display&thread=5150
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Post by Deleted on Jun 30, 2009 21:55:41 GMT
He linked it so I thought maybe he found it for a discount or scratch and dent. if so then jump on it, I say. Tisk Tisk Tom... do your research. I thought of that, and checked the link, it is not for sale. Gezz... getting sloppy in your old age. It was actually a link to the baselard II, but it doesn't have an individual url for the page.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 30, 2009 22:11:29 GMT
The VA pre-sonny line is umm...not very good. IF you can get the kris viking sword for around 150 bucks, jump on it. No comment of strongblade as I haven't seen on in person...but the picture I have seen of it...it look ugly. I mean really poorly done. Deepka looks better and that makes me sad You may wanna spend a bit more and go windlass.The swedish viking sword is $189.95 at KoA and a member has had good things to say about that sword. And I do kinda like how the five lobed one looks at 10 bucks less...but have no idea if it's a good windlass or not. The gen 2 isn't bad per say...but it is a bit heavy and a bit unwieldy...but it does come with a very nicely done edge. Kris is the only other one in the sub 300 range that comes with such a nice edge. Unless you can sharpen a sword yourself, don't underestimate how valueable this is. Forget CS...if your gonna spend that much, get the hanwei tinker viking. for a mere 10 bucks more. Swing at a 2x4 will cause most swords to implode...eventually. Also cutting sapling is unsafe as well (unknown thickness and variable density...also visability issues usually). Please take a look at the sword safety thread. /index.cgi?board=swordtraining&action=display&thread=9916And why you should worry about safety so much...(graphic images) /index.cgi?board=general&action=display&thread=5150Some of the Windlass vikings look good, but then almost another $20 for sharpening. I think I can maintain an edge, but I really don't want to grind a bezel. A sapling is too much for a sword? Really? How is it supposed to cut through bone if it can't handle a sapling?
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Post by Deleted on Jun 30, 2009 22:37:30 GMT
Saplings are unsafe because of the things I mentioned. You get too agressive and you can cut through the sapling...then your leg like in the picture in the lower link(and since they have variable density, you don't know when too much is too much for any branch). And like I said, there is also the visability issue in many cases. Also green wood is usually MUCH harder(never underestimate the resilence of green wood) to cut then to shear bone on same size. Bone isn't as hard to break though as you think. Also most limb tearing happens at joints. I can in one stroke cut a pork leg at the joint with a 10 inch kitchen knife and a beef one with a 14 inch knife. But hey, you maybe lucky and nothing bad happens...or you could bleed to death in you own backyard. Swords aren't toys...we have these suggestions for a good reason. Listen to them or not at your own risk.
As for the windlass...well yes it costs 18 bucks to sharpen...but the edge you get from the windlass sharpening is better then the one you'll get from the pre-sonny valiants by a pretty big margin(secondary bevel and all, it's really not a bad edge). And you can get a slack belt sander pretty cheap (more then 20 bucks...but you can use it for lots of other things) and follow Tom's nice sharpening tutorial. Or if your poor, you can use a file, sand paper and a flat bar which you can get together for less then 10 bucks (and once again use for other things) and a lot of time. In anycase, this is why I mentioned the gen 2 edge...never underestimate the value of a good edge until you get good enough to do an edge yourself.
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Avery
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Post by Avery on Jun 30, 2009 23:07:12 GMT
First off, welcome to the forum Herbert. Secondly, The $150 mark; man, thats a tough one. Everyone who's already posted has had alot of good things to suggest. FWIW I own a strongblade sword, and one thing to remember about the osprey sword is that it comes unsharpened. I've had a lot of practice sharpening blades of all types, and I will say it takes and holds a good edge. But it doesn't take much to really screw it up. One mislick with the file and its another hour of work. I've heard great things about this one here www.kultofathena.com/product~item~500670~name~Sticklestad+Viking+Sword.htm But its $20 more than your budget + shipping + sharpeing. Honestly though, as far as viking blades go, its one of the best dollar for value out there. Have a look at Pauls review www.sword-buyers-guide.com/sticklestad-sword.html other than that Herbert, I'm at a loss. Good luck man. Edit: BTW, yeah never a good idea to hack away at 2by4 or any tree limb or sapling. I sure you've seen it done on you tube and all that, but it's too risky to the sword and, more importantly, yourself.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 30, 2009 23:43:56 GMT
I would go with a Windlass for the price range. They are a little bit more, but well worth it. Will be light and hold up.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 1, 2009 0:12:08 GMT
Not sure about later times, but swords were definitely not considered disposable in the Viking Age. The thing is, you technically can cut 2X4s and trees with swords, but each time you do that the sword will get weaker and weaker, until it eventually breaks. Swords were designed to cut bone, but just like the weakening against wood, if someone cut enough bone with the sword it would eventually break. That is why swords were considered disposable by those who used them for combat. All a person's sword had to do was to get them through one battle, and then it could be replaced. There are records of swords breaking during fights, which is why it was common for knights to make their squires carry a few extra swords with them. If one broke during combat they could get another one. If you are on a budget and don't want to spend a lot of money on swords, then I strongly advise you not to abuse your sword. Remember, when a sword breaks it can cause harm to you or bystanders. Anyways, if you are insistent on staying within your price range, I recommend the Windlass sticklestad. Windlass has a decent reputation for swords in that price range. Good luck on your search!
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Post by Tom K. (ianflaer) on Jul 1, 2009 0:14:56 GMT
hey man what do you think of this one? www.kultofathena.com/product~item~500798~name~Historical+Excalibur+Sword.htmit's viking-ish and right at $149.95 plus shipping and sharpening will bring it higher, but like others have said, it is a windlass and they are pretty reliable even this low-end price range. I agree with the comments on the value of sharpening. yes, I sharpen my own now and I get a far superior edge that way, but I can tell you the reason I learned to sharpen my own was ou of frustration with what I got from so many companies. V.A. signature and practical series (except the Castile) all have really good edges, and I have heard that Gen2's edges are really good from many people but I've never had a gen2 sword. Sean, I did check out the link but I have a REALLY poor connection so I thought there was a chance I missed something. but that's ok in the end it just gave you an opportunity to rib me so some good came out of it.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 1, 2009 0:40:27 GMT
Historically Viking shields would have had leather or rawhide rims. Also, you don't try to kill the shield, you try to kill the guy behind it. I don't believe Vikings would waste energy hacking at a shield. I don't know that a sword would take much damage from chainmail as the blade would have been harder steel. Also, the chainmail would have lots of give. I'd have to do some tests on that though. One definitely should not hack trees down with a sword. Axes are much better at it and cheaper. Not sure about later times, but swords were definitely not considered disposable in the Viking Age. Considering the fact that Vikings used their swords to hack away at iron rimmed wood shields and chainmail, they would have to replace their broken swords. That is, unless they had magical elven swords that cut other swords in half like a lightsaber. Unless I'm wrong, and it's perfectly fine to chop down trees with swords. I guess that instead of actually researching legitimate facts I should watch movies like Highlander.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 1, 2009 0:49:04 GMT
There are viking swords from 10th century rehilted and still used in 16th century. Swords were not made for bashing at shields. For that they had axes. With swords you try to cut or thrust unprotected body parts. Of course bad aimed or bad timed cuts land on shields or helmets or enemy swords, but a few of these per battle won't break your sword. It will maybe bend or nick a little, but that is fixable.
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