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Post by Deleted on May 16, 2009 5:49:55 GMT
As the topic says the guard on my Windlass type XIV arming sword has gotten kinda loose, enough so that it rattles pretty much every time the sword is swung. I'm not certain if this was caused by chopping up a watermelon without sharpening the sword, or just the wooden grip drying out in the Arizona summer, or something else entirely. My dad and I tried to fix it by following the instructions on this web page here: bjorn.foxtail.nu/bonk_eng.htm but we were unable to get it any tighter as shown in picture 2 there, either the handle is glued to the tang or just on so tight that it won't move at all. Since using a hammer to tighten things up seems to be ruled out, what other options do I have? I know I read somewhere about using epoxy to fill teh gap in the guard around the blade, is there anything else I should try or is that what will work best? And if I do use epoxy, what type would you recommend? Normally I tend to kinda jump into things and figure them out as I go along, but for this I'm pretty reluctant to do so, since I really don't want to mess up, so I was hoping to get a really clear idea of what to do before starting. Thanks in advance.
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on May 16, 2009 7:06:42 GMT
Hey buddy, I've addressed this in a few threads, but it's probably easier to retype it than try to use the forums dumb search function. Basically take some 5lb fishing line, tie it to the guard. Then pull it in as tight as you can without breaking around the tang between the guard and teh grip. Hopefully you can get at least 4 or 5 laps around before you get to the top of the split, depending just how big the gap is. It's usually pretty tight. Once you do get to the point that the line will show, back it out half a turn. Smear some epoxy over it and pull it in tight to keep it permanently fixed. Tie it off to the guard and leave it til the glue is well and truly set. Come back with a razor and carefully trim the line right in the crease and you should never see it again. Most peened swords also have the grip glued on. So yeah, by hammering it you'd be lucky if the wood didn't break before it slides down onto the guard. Bad advice so frequently given. Not to mention that it takes immense force to actually move cold steel. It's not just a little tap tapperoo. It's just one more reason I don't like peening swords. Good luck
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Post by hotspur on May 16, 2009 12:32:54 GMT
Hi Bren,
I'll have to somewhat disagree with this. First, while some grips may be glued to the tangs, it is far from saying most do. Secondly, peening the tangs does not take a lot of effort in doing this.
Windlass grips have not often been encountered with glued grips, they have generally been a pretty sloppy fit. What do we know about the sword mentioned at the start of the thread? Was it actually a peened tang, pr is it a threaded one? Windlass uses both methods,let us start with a picture or further exploration first.
Fishing line and other strings works fine in some occasions but there is usually enough slop that things tend to drift around despite that. At least it stops rattles. I use floss on some antiques, as I know it isn't for more than jsut stopping a rattle in light handling.
So let's start with the specific sword in question first before assigning do-all, end-all solutions. I'd want a picture or better explanation first. That's just me. I have some swords that are threaded tangs and then peened. Some peens are nuts mistaken for a tang end. Some cast pommels may look like a peen and are actually not.
A little tap taperoo has worked fine for a good many applications, so that is why any should have to look further if it doesn't work. The IV does appear to be peened, so string is probably an easy expedient.
Cordially
Hotspur; the bonk link is actually quite apt for that specific application
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Post by hotspur on May 16, 2009 12:43:00 GMT
duplicate
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Post by Deleted on May 17, 2009 0:54:06 GMT
Well, I've worked the fishing line as well as I could, and glued and Tied it in place. I don't have any epoxy so I'm using "Zap A Gap" which is pretty much the strongest glue I've ever used, so that should work fine. The rattling isn't completely gone, but it's down by about 50%, enough that it only rattles when the pommel is struck, not when the blade is swung through the air. It would probably rattle while cutting, but this is my blunt for dry handling, so that's not a concern. I did manage to hit the leather grip with the corner of the mallet earlier in this process and it tore the leather somewhat, so it looks like I have an excuse to redo the grip like I had been planing to.
Thanks again for the advice, I guess now I'll mosy on over to the customization board and figure out how to do this grip.
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