ArmArt Viking Sword
Dec 11, 2008 18:15:46 GMT
Post by alvin on Dec 11, 2008 18:15:46 GMT
Review of the ArmArt S36 Viking Sword Type H ( Petersen Type H )
Jim Simmons – La Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
I have been searching for a sword typical of the so-called Viking Age. Specifically, I wanted a sword representative of my Anglo-Saxon roots and I wanted it to be of the highest quality that I could afford, made using historical methods and of the proper historical type for a sword of the 9th and 10th centuries. Albion, Arms and Armour, and the like, are financially out of my reach. Recently, I found what I was looking for, a sword fabricated by ArmArt in the Czech Republic. It has a Geibig Type 2 blade and Geibig Type 5 pommel ( Petersen Type H ). Swords of this type were common, if not the most common of Viking Age types. It would have been found in the Anglo-Saxon dominated areas of England and in much of northern Europe from the 8th century on into the 10th century. So, it is very likely that this type sword could have been seen in the hand of an Anglo-Saxon warrior.
My research has found that ArmArt has an excellent reputation. But the downside is that there is apparently a long wait between ordering and receiving their swords. Sounds like a familiar problem. But, there is the option of buying one of their in-stock swords or finding a used one. This sword is previously owned and is several years old. While it is not new, the sword is in excellent condition. Apparently, it had never been used for cutting and only shows the signs typical of being handled and of improper storage care. There were minor “water spots” on the blade, but no rust damage. The finish on the pommel and hilt is worn in places, again typical signs of handling. I have since improved the blade’s edge – it wasn’t too sharp when I got it – and also lessened some of the “water spots”. The ArmArt website www.armart.antiquanova.com/index.htm states that their swords preserve “old European traditions and historical processes in sword-making “. In other words, they are handmade using traditional methods – not mass produced. While I purchased the sword for much less, the current price for this model is around $440US, including shipping worldwide. Lastima, no scabbard is included.
Initial Impression
The word that immediately came to my mind when I first held the sword was – hammer. The natural grip with this sword seems to be the hammer grip, and with the heavy blade presence – 6 inch POB – it felt like a heavy hammer to me. But, after I took a few exploratory cutting type swings, I found that I could easily transition to a handshake grip during the motion. The blade became more “alive”, slicing smoothly through the air accompanied by a prominent “swishing” sound. After doing some cutting, I again found that, if I begin the cut with a more or less loose hammer grip, centrifugal force naturally moved my hand’s grip from hammer to handshake during the cut, with the index finger, acting against the hilt, serving as an axis. Cuts with the hammer grip are easy too, but it somewhat restricts movement because of the large pommel and fairly short grip. Possibly it is best used for short, vertical, or near vertical, downward cuts in a close shieldwall, over or around the shield when the target is really up close and personal? I used the hammer grip in the video while bottle-cutting, as I was pretty close to the targets and I just wanted to use it. In my opinion though, in a more open fighting scenario, the handshake grip is the one to use for powerful, longer distance cuts. Close range thrusts are also easy with the hammer grip, although less effective because of the almost round point of this sword. There is a fairly interesting thread here www.myarmoury.com/talk/viewtopic.php?t=2478&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0 where the merits of the hammer and handshake grips using the short gripped “Viking” swords are discussed. Depending on the situation, both the hammer and the handshake grips have their place. In my opinion, admittedly formed through small experience and study, neither grip would have been used to the exclusion of the other, as some of the posters in the thread seemed to believe.
Hammer Grip
This is about as far forward that I could rotate the point downward without the pommel digging into my hand and causing too much pain.
Handshake Grip
In a cut, the point will rotate further downward than this. During the cutting movement, the pommel slides along the inside of the palm/wrist further “upward” than is shown here.
After getting acquainted with this sword, my initial impression stands. The word “hammer” leaped to my mind when I first grasped this sword and it has stuck. So, this will be my first, and probably only, named sword. He will eventually have placed on the blade or hilt the Anglo-Saxon/Old English word HAMOR in Futhorc runes.
SPECIFICATIONS
Overall Length - 36 3/8 inches
Blade Length - 30 inches
Blade Width - 2 inches
Blade Thickness – ¼ inch mas o menos
Fuller Length – 27 1/4 inches
Fuller Width - 6/8 inch near the hilt, tapering to approx. 5/8 inch.
Grip Length – 3 7/8 inches
Weight - 2.5 lbs. mas o menos
POB- 6 inches
COP – 22 ½ inches mas o menos
DESIGN, FIT & FINISH
The Blade
The 30 inch long blade is, as best as I can determine, a Geibig Type 2, Variant B blade and is of lens section with long, wide fullers coming to within 2 3/4 inches of the short, rounded point. The blade is 2 inches wide at the hilt and tapers to 1 ½ inches at the end of the fullers. The edges are of a straight or linear taper in profile. It is not whippy by any means, but does flex satisfactorily and returns to true. The fullers are not perfectly straight, but that matters not to me. The current ArmArt website states that grade 14260 steel ( alloy-low chromium steel ) is used in manufacturing their blades. As I received it, the blade was not very sharp. I had to work a little to put a satisfactory, for me, cutting edge on it. It still needs more work, but that’s for later. There were very minor water spots on the blade, but no rust. Typical of having been stored without proper care procedure being followed.
www.myarmoury.com/feature_geibig.html
The Pommel
The one piece Geibig Type 5 ( Petersen Type H ) iron, or low carbon steel, pommel is slightly darkened and measures 2 7/8 inches wide and 1 7/8 inches high and is peened to the tang.
The Grip
The grip is, as per the ArmArt website, made of beech wood and is wrapped in brown leather strips and feels quite secure in the hand. It is 3 7/8 inches long as measured between the pommel and hilt. This is about the right length for my hand, and works well for me in both the hammer and handshake grips.
The Guard
The boat shaped iron, or low carbon steel, guard is 3 ¼ inches long and is slightly darkened to match the pommel.
HANDLING
This sword is taking some getting used to as it handles very differently than my other favorite swords, a modified British P1908 Cavalry Sword and a Spanish Model 1907 Cavalry Sword. It’s going to take a lot more study, thinking and experimentation on my part to fully understand just how these swords were used. All part of the fun of owning swords. But, after a little familiarization, I am doing better using this type pommel/grip/guard design, which to me is the major difference between it and the cavalry swords. There are obviously other differences, but this hilt arrangement is the greatest difference by far in determining what options are available to the user relating to attacks and defensive play. But, I believe to really appreciate how this type sword was used, one must consider the shield and how it was used in conjunction with the sword. The sword and shield may even be almost inseparable.
I have learned enough to make cuts without allowing the pommel to bite my hand. The sword feels very nice in the hand. Once I learned the hammer-to-handshake grip transition, cuts were easy and painless, although cuts were easy using the hammer grip too. Edge alignment is very natural. It does have a noticeable blade presence, but the benefit is very powerful cuts. Within my limited experience, this sword handles very well. I am sure that I will improve as time and practice allows.
TESTING
While I make no claim to being proficient/skillful with a sword - I have a long way to go - the sword cut 2.5, 3.0 and 3.5 liter water filled plastic bottles very handily as the accompanying YouTube video will attest. Even cutting through two 3.0 liter bottles placed side-by-side was easy. The video will also attest that proper cutting technique is very important in making a clean, successful cut. In spite of the almost rounded point, I was able to easily thrust through 8 layers of cardboard. I am very impressed with how this sword performed. It would be a very formidable sword in the hand of an 9th/10th century warrior.
CONCLUSION and SBG Ratings
I am very happy with this sword. For the price, I believe that one receives a great sword built closely to traditional specs and manufacturing processes. This one just might go with me to my mound when the time comes.
Historical Accuracy: 5/5 Seems to meet historical descriptions of this type of sword.
Fit and Finish: 4/5 Some may not like the fullers not being perfectly straight.
Handling: 5/5 Handles great for me.
Structural Integrity: 5/5 A solid, stout sword.
Value for Money: 5/5 Well worth even the new price from ArmArt.
OVERALL: 5/5 I think it’s a great sword.
Jim Simmons – La Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
I have been searching for a sword typical of the so-called Viking Age. Specifically, I wanted a sword representative of my Anglo-Saxon roots and I wanted it to be of the highest quality that I could afford, made using historical methods and of the proper historical type for a sword of the 9th and 10th centuries. Albion, Arms and Armour, and the like, are financially out of my reach. Recently, I found what I was looking for, a sword fabricated by ArmArt in the Czech Republic. It has a Geibig Type 2 blade and Geibig Type 5 pommel ( Petersen Type H ). Swords of this type were common, if not the most common of Viking Age types. It would have been found in the Anglo-Saxon dominated areas of England and in much of northern Europe from the 8th century on into the 10th century. So, it is very likely that this type sword could have been seen in the hand of an Anglo-Saxon warrior.
My research has found that ArmArt has an excellent reputation. But the downside is that there is apparently a long wait between ordering and receiving their swords. Sounds like a familiar problem. But, there is the option of buying one of their in-stock swords or finding a used one. This sword is previously owned and is several years old. While it is not new, the sword is in excellent condition. Apparently, it had never been used for cutting and only shows the signs typical of being handled and of improper storage care. There were minor “water spots” on the blade, but no rust damage. The finish on the pommel and hilt is worn in places, again typical signs of handling. I have since improved the blade’s edge – it wasn’t too sharp when I got it – and also lessened some of the “water spots”. The ArmArt website www.armart.antiquanova.com/index.htm states that their swords preserve “old European traditions and historical processes in sword-making “. In other words, they are handmade using traditional methods – not mass produced. While I purchased the sword for much less, the current price for this model is around $440US, including shipping worldwide. Lastima, no scabbard is included.
Initial Impression
The word that immediately came to my mind when I first held the sword was – hammer. The natural grip with this sword seems to be the hammer grip, and with the heavy blade presence – 6 inch POB – it felt like a heavy hammer to me. But, after I took a few exploratory cutting type swings, I found that I could easily transition to a handshake grip during the motion. The blade became more “alive”, slicing smoothly through the air accompanied by a prominent “swishing” sound. After doing some cutting, I again found that, if I begin the cut with a more or less loose hammer grip, centrifugal force naturally moved my hand’s grip from hammer to handshake during the cut, with the index finger, acting against the hilt, serving as an axis. Cuts with the hammer grip are easy too, but it somewhat restricts movement because of the large pommel and fairly short grip. Possibly it is best used for short, vertical, or near vertical, downward cuts in a close shieldwall, over or around the shield when the target is really up close and personal? I used the hammer grip in the video while bottle-cutting, as I was pretty close to the targets and I just wanted to use it. In my opinion though, in a more open fighting scenario, the handshake grip is the one to use for powerful, longer distance cuts. Close range thrusts are also easy with the hammer grip, although less effective because of the almost round point of this sword. There is a fairly interesting thread here www.myarmoury.com/talk/viewtopic.php?t=2478&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0 where the merits of the hammer and handshake grips using the short gripped “Viking” swords are discussed. Depending on the situation, both the hammer and the handshake grips have their place. In my opinion, admittedly formed through small experience and study, neither grip would have been used to the exclusion of the other, as some of the posters in the thread seemed to believe.
Hammer Grip
This is about as far forward that I could rotate the point downward without the pommel digging into my hand and causing too much pain.
Handshake Grip
In a cut, the point will rotate further downward than this. During the cutting movement, the pommel slides along the inside of the palm/wrist further “upward” than is shown here.
After getting acquainted with this sword, my initial impression stands. The word “hammer” leaped to my mind when I first grasped this sword and it has stuck. So, this will be my first, and probably only, named sword. He will eventually have placed on the blade or hilt the Anglo-Saxon/Old English word HAMOR in Futhorc runes.
SPECIFICATIONS
Overall Length - 36 3/8 inches
Blade Length - 30 inches
Blade Width - 2 inches
Blade Thickness – ¼ inch mas o menos
Fuller Length – 27 1/4 inches
Fuller Width - 6/8 inch near the hilt, tapering to approx. 5/8 inch.
Grip Length – 3 7/8 inches
Weight - 2.5 lbs. mas o menos
POB- 6 inches
COP – 22 ½ inches mas o menos
DESIGN, FIT & FINISH
The Blade
The 30 inch long blade is, as best as I can determine, a Geibig Type 2, Variant B blade and is of lens section with long, wide fullers coming to within 2 3/4 inches of the short, rounded point. The blade is 2 inches wide at the hilt and tapers to 1 ½ inches at the end of the fullers. The edges are of a straight or linear taper in profile. It is not whippy by any means, but does flex satisfactorily and returns to true. The fullers are not perfectly straight, but that matters not to me. The current ArmArt website states that grade 14260 steel ( alloy-low chromium steel ) is used in manufacturing their blades. As I received it, the blade was not very sharp. I had to work a little to put a satisfactory, for me, cutting edge on it. It still needs more work, but that’s for later. There were very minor water spots on the blade, but no rust. Typical of having been stored without proper care procedure being followed.
www.myarmoury.com/feature_geibig.html
The Pommel
The one piece Geibig Type 5 ( Petersen Type H ) iron, or low carbon steel, pommel is slightly darkened and measures 2 7/8 inches wide and 1 7/8 inches high and is peened to the tang.
The Grip
The grip is, as per the ArmArt website, made of beech wood and is wrapped in brown leather strips and feels quite secure in the hand. It is 3 7/8 inches long as measured between the pommel and hilt. This is about the right length for my hand, and works well for me in both the hammer and handshake grips.
The Guard
The boat shaped iron, or low carbon steel, guard is 3 ¼ inches long and is slightly darkened to match the pommel.
HANDLING
This sword is taking some getting used to as it handles very differently than my other favorite swords, a modified British P1908 Cavalry Sword and a Spanish Model 1907 Cavalry Sword. It’s going to take a lot more study, thinking and experimentation on my part to fully understand just how these swords were used. All part of the fun of owning swords. But, after a little familiarization, I am doing better using this type pommel/grip/guard design, which to me is the major difference between it and the cavalry swords. There are obviously other differences, but this hilt arrangement is the greatest difference by far in determining what options are available to the user relating to attacks and defensive play. But, I believe to really appreciate how this type sword was used, one must consider the shield and how it was used in conjunction with the sword. The sword and shield may even be almost inseparable.
I have learned enough to make cuts without allowing the pommel to bite my hand. The sword feels very nice in the hand. Once I learned the hammer-to-handshake grip transition, cuts were easy and painless, although cuts were easy using the hammer grip too. Edge alignment is very natural. It does have a noticeable blade presence, but the benefit is very powerful cuts. Within my limited experience, this sword handles very well. I am sure that I will improve as time and practice allows.
TESTING
While I make no claim to being proficient/skillful with a sword - I have a long way to go - the sword cut 2.5, 3.0 and 3.5 liter water filled plastic bottles very handily as the accompanying YouTube video will attest. Even cutting through two 3.0 liter bottles placed side-by-side was easy. The video will also attest that proper cutting technique is very important in making a clean, successful cut. In spite of the almost rounded point, I was able to easily thrust through 8 layers of cardboard. I am very impressed with how this sword performed. It would be a very formidable sword in the hand of an 9th/10th century warrior.
CONCLUSION and SBG Ratings
I am very happy with this sword. For the price, I believe that one receives a great sword built closely to traditional specs and manufacturing processes. This one just might go with me to my mound when the time comes.
Historical Accuracy: 5/5 Seems to meet historical descriptions of this type of sword.
Fit and Finish: 4/5 Some may not like the fullers not being perfectly straight.
Handling: 5/5 Handles great for me.
Structural Integrity: 5/5 A solid, stout sword.
Value for Money: 5/5 Well worth even the new price from ArmArt.
OVERALL: 5/5 I think it’s a great sword.