Windlass Grantham Rapier
Dec 3, 2008 20:07:04 GMT
Post by Deleted on Dec 3, 2008 20:07:04 GMT
Grantham Rapier
Charles A. Appel – Marietta, Georgia, USA
INTRODUCTION
Several weeks back, I purchased two rapiers from Kult of Athena. These arrived early in October of this year. One of these was the Hanwei Taza Cup-Hilt rapier, reviewed here in late October. I bought the Hanwei rapier because of its looks, the cup guard which offers excellent hand protection, and because it was one of the lighter blades available.
The other rapier was the Windlass Grantham Rapier (often sold as the Windlass Blackened Rapier.) I picked the Grantham also on its looks and on the protection offered to the hand. I also thought it might be a good idea to try out a heavier rapier to see what the handling was like.
Note (12/04/2008): The Grantham Rapier is named for the battle of Grantham, which took place around 1634. This bit of information comes to you courtesy of Windlass Steelcrafts. Their sales department responded very quickly.
Both rapiers arrived well packaged and without damage. The Grantham’s blade was covered by a heavy paper sleeve. The hilt was protected by bubble wrap. Additional protection was provided by large quantities of brown paper. If you have ordered from KOA you’ll be familiar with the stuff.
INITIAL IMPRESSIONS
My first impressions after unwrapping it were that it was a handsome sword, but overly heavy, and the grip was less comfortable than that of the Hanwei product. The rapier seemed solidly built. There was no play in the handle and the pommel seemed solidly attached. Since the Cup-Hilt rapier was the prettier of the two, I set the Windlass sword aside at first.
Statistics:
(1) – Measured at the guard.
(2) – Measured at ricasso.
(3) – Measure three inches from end of blade.
(4) – Best estimate by an amateur.
DESIGN, FIT & FINISH
The Blade
The blade is composed of tempered 1075 steel. On arrival it was covered with a white waxy/powdery substance. This is probably some kind of rust preventative.
It was clear that this blade was intended to be sharpened for its entire length. Unfortunately, I had not chosen to have it sharpened so the task fell to me. I decided that this would be a good chance to test the merits of the Accu-Sharp against files, sanding blocks, and stones.
I sharpened about one-third of the true edge of the sword using files, stones, and sand paper mounted on wood and leather. I sharpened a bit less of the false edge using the Accu-Sharp. The Accu-Sharp method proved much faster, but the blade edge (while plenty sharp) seemed rough. Little “chatter marks” were visible along the edge and the Accu-Sharp had created a secondary bevel.
The true edge took more than twice as long to sharpen but the edge was a good bit smoother.
After getting both edges just slightly less than paper-cutting sharp, I conducted my first tests.
I’d like to note at this point that the blade on the Windlass rapier appeared to be somewhat less sturdy than the blade on the Hanwei. This may or may not be true. I subjected this rapier to more abuse than I did the other. In the end, the blade developed a bend near the tip. This bend is just barely visible. I believe this occurred while I was in combat with the blackberries - always a dangerous foe.
The Grip
The grip of this sword is made of wood and wrapped with blackened steel (or iron) wire. It is about three and five-sixteenth inches in length. Maximum circumference is about three and three-eighths inches. At each end of the wire wrap are copper Turks head knots or a close approximation thereof. I say this because I can’t decide if the knots are really woven copper wire or just a pattern stamped into the copper.
The Pommel
The pommel is a flattened heart shape and is screwed onto the tang. I discovered this after the second cutting and thrusting session. I was about to hand the rapier to a friend when I noticed that the pommel was no longer straight. I had sent an email to Museum Replicas, asking if the sword could be dismantled. I now had the answer. I can now report that the pommel is solid and quite heavy. Unfortunately, it no longer lines up with the grip. I suspect I will have to shim it and apply some loctite to the threads.
In the picture above, you can see the in fully tightened position. Instead of being parallel to the blade, it is almost perpendicular.
The Guard
The guard features “S” shaped quillions with a wide spread. It contains a single shell guard. Unlike the cup guard on the Hanwei rapier, this guard was made for a right-handed individual.
Now, we come to a puzzle. I discovered (through the use of a magnet) that the guard is a composite of at least two materials. The bulk of the guard, including the floral decorated shell and counterguards, is either iron or steel. The quillions, quillion block, and the arms are made of some other alloy. Underneath the black, this is silver in color. It could be aluminum, white bronze, or possibly stainless steel.
The Hilt
When all the parts are taken into account we have what A. V. B. Norman classified as a type 55 hilt. This is the type of hilt found on the rapier of Gustavus Adolphus.
The Scabbard
The scabbard is made of leather with blackened metal throat and tip. The metal appears to be steel. In the photo below, note the large gap where the leather is supposed to meet.
TESTING
Thrusting & Cutting
Thrusting tests were conducted using water-filled containers, a cardboard box stuffed with more cardboard, and 5/16th inch plywood.
Cutting tests were conducted with the same items, but blackberry plants were added to the mix.
Handling
The Grantham Rapier is very tip heavy and in my opinion handles poorly as a result. It is not as bad as the proverbial crowbar with a handle, but it is bad enough. On a hard thrust, the sword tends to pull the user off balance. You can see this in the videos. Bringing the blade up to speed for a cut is also difficult.
Historical Accuracy
This rapier roughly duplicates the one carried by Gustavus Adolphus in his last battle. In my opinion, Windlass has done a good job here.
For more information on Gustavus Adolphus II:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gustavus_Adolphus_of_Sweden
YouTube has several videos on Gustavus Adolphus, such as this one.
A Google search in images of “gustav II adolf pictures” will yield several pages of artwork.
CONCLUSION and SBG Ratings
Historical Accuracy: 5/5
Fit and Finish: 3/5
Handling: 3/5
Structural Integrity: 3/5
Value for Money: 4/5
OVERALL: 3/5
Charles A. Appel – Marietta, Georgia, USA
INTRODUCTION
Several weeks back, I purchased two rapiers from Kult of Athena. These arrived early in October of this year. One of these was the Hanwei Taza Cup-Hilt rapier, reviewed here in late October. I bought the Hanwei rapier because of its looks, the cup guard which offers excellent hand protection, and because it was one of the lighter blades available.
The other rapier was the Windlass Grantham Rapier (often sold as the Windlass Blackened Rapier.) I picked the Grantham also on its looks and on the protection offered to the hand. I also thought it might be a good idea to try out a heavier rapier to see what the handling was like.
Note (12/04/2008): The Grantham Rapier is named for the battle of Grantham, which took place around 1634. This bit of information comes to you courtesy of Windlass Steelcrafts. Their sales department responded very quickly.
Both rapiers arrived well packaged and without damage. The Grantham’s blade was covered by a heavy paper sleeve. The hilt was protected by bubble wrap. Additional protection was provided by large quantities of brown paper. If you have ordered from KOA you’ll be familiar with the stuff.
INITIAL IMPRESSIONS
My first impressions after unwrapping it were that it was a handsome sword, but overly heavy, and the grip was less comfortable than that of the Hanwei product. The rapier seemed solidly built. There was no play in the handle and the pommel seemed solidly attached. Since the Cup-Hilt rapier was the prettier of the two, I set the Windlass sword aside at first.
Statistics:
Blade Length: | 37.000 Inches | 93.980 cm |
Handle Length: | 3.313 Inches | 8.415 cm |
Hilt Length: | 8.125 Inches | 20.638 cm |
Overall Lenghth: | 45.125 Inches | 114.618 cm |
Scabbard Length: | 38.000 Inches | 96.520 cm |
Sword w/ Scabbard: | 46.125 Inches | 117.158 cm |
Quillion Spread: | 8.750 Inches | 22.225 cm |
Ricasso Width(1): | 0.983 Inches | 2.497 cm |
Ricasso Thickness(1): | 0.245 Inches | 0.623 cm |
Blade Width(2): | 0.980 Inches | 2.489 cm |
Blade Thickness(2): | 0.245 Inches | 0.623 cm |
Blade Thickness(3): | 0.204 Inches | 0.518 cm |
POB: | 4.250 Inches | 10.795 cm |
COP(4): | 21.00 Inches | 53.34 cm |
Sword Weight: | 44.200 Ounces | 1.250 kg |
Scabbard Weight: | 6.850 Ounces | 0.194 kg |
Total Weight: | 51.050 Ounces | 1.447 kg |
(1) – Measured at the guard.
(2) – Measured at ricasso.
(3) – Measure three inches from end of blade.
(4) – Best estimate by an amateur.
DESIGN, FIT & FINISH
The Blade
The blade is composed of tempered 1075 steel. On arrival it was covered with a white waxy/powdery substance. This is probably some kind of rust preventative.
It was clear that this blade was intended to be sharpened for its entire length. Unfortunately, I had not chosen to have it sharpened so the task fell to me. I decided that this would be a good chance to test the merits of the Accu-Sharp against files, sanding blocks, and stones.
I sharpened about one-third of the true edge of the sword using files, stones, and sand paper mounted on wood and leather. I sharpened a bit less of the false edge using the Accu-Sharp. The Accu-Sharp method proved much faster, but the blade edge (while plenty sharp) seemed rough. Little “chatter marks” were visible along the edge and the Accu-Sharp had created a secondary bevel.
The true edge took more than twice as long to sharpen but the edge was a good bit smoother.
After getting both edges just slightly less than paper-cutting sharp, I conducted my first tests.
I’d like to note at this point that the blade on the Windlass rapier appeared to be somewhat less sturdy than the blade on the Hanwei. This may or may not be true. I subjected this rapier to more abuse than I did the other. In the end, the blade developed a bend near the tip. This bend is just barely visible. I believe this occurred while I was in combat with the blackberries - always a dangerous foe.
The Grip
The grip of this sword is made of wood and wrapped with blackened steel (or iron) wire. It is about three and five-sixteenth inches in length. Maximum circumference is about three and three-eighths inches. At each end of the wire wrap are copper Turks head knots or a close approximation thereof. I say this because I can’t decide if the knots are really woven copper wire or just a pattern stamped into the copper.
The Pommel
The pommel is a flattened heart shape and is screwed onto the tang. I discovered this after the second cutting and thrusting session. I was about to hand the rapier to a friend when I noticed that the pommel was no longer straight. I had sent an email to Museum Replicas, asking if the sword could be dismantled. I now had the answer. I can now report that the pommel is solid and quite heavy. Unfortunately, it no longer lines up with the grip. I suspect I will have to shim it and apply some loctite to the threads.
In the picture above, you can see the in fully tightened position. Instead of being parallel to the blade, it is almost perpendicular.
The Guard
The guard features “S” shaped quillions with a wide spread. It contains a single shell guard. Unlike the cup guard on the Hanwei rapier, this guard was made for a right-handed individual.
Now, we come to a puzzle. I discovered (through the use of a magnet) that the guard is a composite of at least two materials. The bulk of the guard, including the floral decorated shell and counterguards, is either iron or steel. The quillions, quillion block, and the arms are made of some other alloy. Underneath the black, this is silver in color. It could be aluminum, white bronze, or possibly stainless steel.
The Hilt
When all the parts are taken into account we have what A. V. B. Norman classified as a type 55 hilt. This is the type of hilt found on the rapier of Gustavus Adolphus.
The Scabbard
The scabbard is made of leather with blackened metal throat and tip. The metal appears to be steel. In the photo below, note the large gap where the leather is supposed to meet.
TESTING
Thrusting & Cutting
Thrusting tests were conducted using water-filled containers, a cardboard box stuffed with more cardboard, and 5/16th inch plywood.
Cutting tests were conducted with the same items, but blackberry plants were added to the mix.
Handling
The Grantham Rapier is very tip heavy and in my opinion handles poorly as a result. It is not as bad as the proverbial crowbar with a handle, but it is bad enough. On a hard thrust, the sword tends to pull the user off balance. You can see this in the videos. Bringing the blade up to speed for a cut is also difficult.
Historical Accuracy
This rapier roughly duplicates the one carried by Gustavus Adolphus in his last battle. In my opinion, Windlass has done a good job here.
For more information on Gustavus Adolphus II:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gustavus_Adolphus_of_Sweden
YouTube has several videos on Gustavus Adolphus, such as this one.
A Google search in images of “gustav II adolf pictures” will yield several pages of artwork.
CONCLUSION and SBG Ratings
Historical Accuracy: 5/5
Fit and Finish: 3/5
Handling: 3/5
Structural Integrity: 3/5
Value for Money: 4/5
OVERALL: 3/5