Two-Handed Gothic Sword Late 15th century – German. Original found in the Landesmuseum, Zurich. This sword was very popular in Germany during the mid to late 15th century. The sword illuminates the artistic creativity of the time, resulting from the Gothic artistic revolution in the arts.
The clear crisp blade and details hexagonal quillons and crisp fishtail pommel attest to this artistic revival.
Specifications Total length: 46.3" Blade length: 35.5" Blade width at base: 2" Weight: 3 lbs. 8 oz. Balance point: 5.5"
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Last Edit: Dec 30, 2007 4:54:27 GMT by Brian of DBK
FACT: Accusharp sharpeners are set at a 40 degree angle, which is far from ideal for a edge on a sword. This is even stated by Paul himself on his sharpening tips. With the thickness of DSA swords, you want a more ideal angle on the edge or it will hit more like a bat, and cut less like a sword. You may be able to get away with a 40 degree angle on a thinner type sword like Windlass, but not on a DSA.
I have an smiths sharpener, similar to an accusharp. I have to agree with Brian that type sharpener isn't ideal for a sword. It's too aggressive and not an ideal angle. I wouldn't use one to sharpen a sword, I would take the longer route of file, stones and ceramic rods. It takes longer but you get a better result in my opinion. With this in mind, I think the price AOV charges for sharpening is very reasonable considering time involved.
BTW Thats a good looking sword, except for the pommel. ;D
I actually prefer the Smiths Sharpener over the Accusharp. The Accusharp tends to take more off of one side, where as the Smith's is much more even. I only use these devices to finalize an edge, or clean it up a little. Using only light pressure so that only the very edge is defined, and the filed beveled edge is left alone.
yeah i have a yellow smith sharpener and a ceramic sharpener and what i do is i use the smith and after about 20 strokes i use the ceramic one. I did this to my Cheness shura and the edge is very good. It cuts way better than it did when the sword first came. The edge retention is very good also, plus there's barely a bevel on the edge.
I would say this method is good if your blade has already been sharpened and is getting dull from use.
I dont know, I still cant decide if i want to pay $160 for cutting power(Falcata) or $325 for beauty(DS Gothic)
I used to have a Smith's sharpener, but have no idea what happened to it.
I'd never use anything of the sort to sharpen a sword, though, save perhaps a cheaper Windlass. Darksword I'd be more than happy to pay AoV to sharpen for me. On that note, I don't find their prices unreasonable at all. Hell, I think they're a pretty good deal considering the work involved. I'd go insane trying to file down something as thick as a Darksword blade.
Oh, and I'm with Rick; I'd prefer a different pommel, but this one's growing on me. Doesn't Darksword sell parts separately?
Last Edit: Dec 24, 2007 0:34:35 GMT by randomnobody
Oh, and you can ask Jason of AoV about this, but I didn't like the sword just from the pictures on the DSA site either. Once I got it in my hands I was very impressed not only by the looks of it, but the handling is superb.
So I took some better pictures (as seen above) and now we have a better idea of the sword. Though, the pommel never really bothered me...
Last Edit: Dec 24, 2007 0:42:04 GMT by Brian of DBK
The pommel and the taper put me off at first, I generally prefer rounder furniture and broader blades; but lately I'm finding my tastes expanding. I'd decided at first on the 14th-Century Two-hander by DSA, but after a few more looks-around, I decided my first DSA will be the Gothic. Probably what made this choice more than anything was the weight being much more reasonable, albeit a shorter sword.
At any rate, the Gothic has grown on me. Now if only my bank account would do some growing...
The taper is what makes this sword handle so well. If the blade were broader it would make it blade heavy and push the POB farther forward. This kind of taper is ideal on a DSA because it not only lightens it up, it helps the handling, and with the thicker DSA blades it doesn't get whippy like other manufacturers that make swords with similar tapers.
The taper is what makes this sword handle so well. If the blade were broader it would make it blade heavy and push the POB farther forward. This kind of taper is ideal on a DSA because it not only lightens it up, it helps the handling, and with the thicker DSA blades it doesn't get whippy like other manufacturers that make swords with similar tapers.
That's an interesting point - a certain sword geometry may not just be "the best for a certain goal/purpose" or the "best for a certain swordman" but also "the best for a certain maker".
If I were to buy a DSA for looks, I think I would go for the Boromir (how does that one handle btw?). But for sheer functionality, this one is very attractive.
nerdthenord: Hi, I'm still alive. Doing well again all things considered
Apr 15, 2024 3:10:36 GMT
samsthe1: Uhlan, thank you for the information.Derek.
Apr 9, 2024 15:25:37 GMT
samsthe1: Uhlan, thank you for the information,
Apr 9, 2024 15:24:56 GMT
mrstabby: Mine gets pressed to the top as well, but that way the tip gets ground of, don't like that either. Unfortunately I'm an edge-perfectionist. Also one wrong move when unsheathing and the throat nicks the edge on either side.
Mar 31, 2024 19:02:10 GMT
AndiTheBarvarian: Perhaps I've got one from the batch for Matt Easton ?!?
Mar 31, 2024 18:22:59 GMT
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AndiTheBarvarian: When I draw the saber it's automatically pressed with the spine to the scabbard so there's space for the edge to not touch the scabbard. When the false edge starts it's released but can be carefully draw completely without touching the scabbard.
Mar 31, 2024 8:10:26 GMT
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AndiTheBarvarian: Too little gap for a needle, so also I see no way to get the glue in.
Mar 31, 2024 8:02:34 GMT
mrstabby: I was easily able to poke through the glue on all of my Windlass swords/daggers, then it just seems to wick in forever, it never was thick. I can't imagine how there isn't any dulling though, unless yours is less wide or the scabbard is bigger.
Mar 31, 2024 7:04:12 GMT
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AndiTheBarvarian: There's not really an opening on mine, very good fit of guard and blade and some glue or epoxy in it. Since my scabbard doesn't dull the edge too I seem to be on the lucky side with Windlass this time.
Mar 31, 2024 1:25:54 GMT
mrstabby: Maybe it screams in pain now, but I like it..
Mar 30, 2024 20:35:26 GMT
mrstabby: PSA: Give your Windlass swords some superglue, they appreciate it. My 1796 drank 4g through the opening between guard and blade, now it rings much louder and vibrates much less.
Mar 30, 2024 20:34:25 GMT
AndiTheBarvarian: Not easy to smell without a nose...
Mar 30, 2024 3:17:59 GMT
mrstabby: "Sorry Mr. Johnson, I need to store my sword for a few hundread years until someone worthy comes and gets it, mind if I stick it here?"
Mar 29, 2024 18:54:11 GMT
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AndiTheBarvarian: First you have to try getting it into!
Mar 29, 2024 14:52:50 GMT
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mrstabby: What now, pulling a sword out of Dwayne "The Rock" Johnson? Intriguing!
Mar 29, 2024 12:49:08 GMT
AndiTheBarvarian: Dwayne Johnson disagrees!
Mar 28, 2024 19:38:14 GMT
rschuch: As anyone who's seen Excalibur knows, getting the sword INTO the rock isn't the problem, it's getting it back out again.
Mar 28, 2024 19:13:13 GMT
durinnmcfurren: Movie turned out better than it had any right to be considering how many times a blade was shoved into rock. Yes, even once would be too much, but it was way more than once.
Mar 16, 2024 22:36:55 GMT
Ramses1079: Yeah me too, which is a shame because he’s a good author. I guess that’s like when your favorite band releases a new album, and there’s always one or two tracks that you’re like “what were they thinking?”
Mar 16, 2024 19:12:10 GMT
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